HOW TO BENCH TEST MY FUEL PUMP?!!!
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,123
Likes: 5
I have never seen documentation on the stock fuel pump flow rate. I have personally seen it get up to 75psi one time on a manual test gauge. Useually around 65psi is more normal. So you could only do haif of a bench test.
There is a pressure regulator on the upper fuel filter that there is a updated spring kit available.
There is a pressure regulator on the upper fuel filter that there is a updated spring kit available.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 11
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It fills up, she is running ruff BIG time, its getting starved for sure. I thought it ws the pump but then I tested it and it worked. Ill try the spring and see if it helps. Any other ideas? IPR valve or something like that?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,823
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From: Jersey Shore
The spring will not change the volume of fuel, only the retained pressure.
There are so many issues that can cause the issue you describe so you really need to have a way of looking at codes and running parameters in order to assess what is wrong.
A monitoring readout like Scangage or others are good, AutoEnginuity is better, and Ford's IDS is best.
There are so many issues that can cause the issue you describe so you really need to have a way of looking at codes and running parameters in order to assess what is wrong.
A monitoring readout like Scangage or others are good, AutoEnginuity is better, and Ford's IDS is best.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2015
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Thanks dannyboy, your a beauty! I'll get the spring kit just to get it and see if it helps, my neighbour has a Creader that I might be able to bum for a bit. To see if my top bowl fills up quick, I unhook the started cable on the left side of the hood and touch it to the positive side of the battery and watch it fill up? Ive watched the video a couple of times. Do you know the specs for the voltage to the pump? Ill check that too.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2012
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As mentioned it will only help with pressure not volume.
12v at the pump. If you have a newer cover a couple of the plugins may be missing.
Do not panic the fuel heater was deleted and the Water in fuel light may be disconected. The pump will run fine without them,altho you may want to plug the light back in if unplugged.
12v at the pump. If you have a newer cover a couple of the plugins may be missing.
Do not panic the fuel heater was deleted and the Water in fuel light may be disconected. The pump will run fine without them,altho you may want to plug the light back in if unplugged.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
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From: BC Canada
Ignition to on with cap off, the starter wire you mention will try to rpm rank, you just want the fuel pump. Why not just put a sensor on the port and measure fuel pressure? I suggest rather than bench test cause it's easier and safer.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2015
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Thanks! I figured out the pump was good, or at least works. My snap on kit doesnt have the right adapter to fit in the test port on the upper bowl. I have fuel at the upper bowl now but she wont stay running. Like its getting starved at idle. Im going to go see if I can bleed the air out. Any suggestions or tips on a diagnosis
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Drain the bottom filter and re live and check the bottom fuel filter o ring with clean oil. Do the same with the top. Use a torque wrench on both, be careful and use the proper sockets for both caps. Then prime the system 3 - 4 times. It should run and then stop on the 2nd or 3rd prime before you turn the key off. This is how you bleed off the air in the fuel system, but I wonder if you have a lot of air all the way in. Also, with this much trouble, do you have atleast a half tank of diesel, and have you checked both caps for small cracks?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: TX
2006 F350 4X4
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,073
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From: TX
2006 F350 4X4
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