So I just had my motor built.
300 .05 over 10:1 1.76rollers rv cam 390 pistons dui distributor the whole nine yards.

Got it running and driving great! A little rich but I was working on that.

I then put my air cleaner on and it would bog, my initial thought was too much restriction, but then it went away after the truck warmed up( let it high idle a few minutes then I'd go and it's stop bogging after about two miles)

Changed air cleaners a couple of times and it helped/hurt it. Go to drive to breakfast and I planned on getting a hot air cleaner. (the standard fancy chrome ones) and it boggeD a little bit but it was colder today then any other time I've driven the truck. Which has about 500 miles on by now.

put it on and it's bad, so I pull over and take it off, still the same, so I'm like hmm what gives. I did also switch to the rear tank around this time. Which has been empty ish for the last year, but the front tank was too and never gave an issue.

As I drive the three miles home my oil pressure gauge starts going crazy. Bouncing all around. Like shaking like a tach would with a real bad interference. Park it and my oil didn't smell like gas, but I had to go so I dropped the truck and left.

Things to check.

Radiator fluid (for oil)
oil smells like gas
oil will burn on dip stick with pocket lighter(gas)
spark plugs
Leak down and compression test.

My truck ran great until I did this stupid air cleaner. If I was on grass or something I could spin the tires on(a blip to 2k) it'd let a little puff of black smoke. there is a carbon foot print when I let it idle to warm up, however using a white paper towel held to the exhaust( which is short and doesn't have a cat) it was just moisture and carbon, no oil nor gas smell.

any other ideas or comments? I'm hoping it's all good in the morning...I've got too much into this to rebuild the motor again the soon.

 

Without the factory heated intake manifold and snorkel heating the intake air a 300 is going to run poorly when it's cold. Since the issue went away once the engine was up to temperature that seems like the source of the problem. My Bronco doesn't run particularly well when it's cold either - it's just a fact of life once you replace the factory intake and breather.

If the rear tank sat for a year then the gas is probably bad. I'd start by either draining it (if it's 1/4 full or more) or otherwise fill it and add a bottle of Berryman's B-12 or Techron, then run it for ~five minutes to clear the fuel lines and change the fuel filter. And don't use one of those cheapo plastic or glass fuel filters from Autozone or wherever.

 

Well my issue with the bog wasn't just a cold thing. Atleast not yesterday, it was no matter what and the engine was plenty warm. I'd already driven around about twenty miles and had barely an issue.

The tank was empty. I drove on it til my old engine sputtered, then switched. I had planned on a 38gal tank swap but it requires a lot of stuff taken off(ie my hitch and tank skid plate) so it should be clean.

My oil didn't burn off the dipstick Thor morning. I'm going to change oil and plugs here shortly.

 

I figured it out!
My spark plugs weren't gapped right! Thery were at around 38-42. I needed 55.

Changed everything checked my gaps replaced the oil, even tapped a torch to the oil and no flame. Cranked her up and the little bit of smoke I was used to seeing(which I wrote off as just running rich with such short exhaust slowly went away along with my lifter clatter dissapearing. A couple cylinders had a little wear in them more then the others, but it was w2 and #5. Not 3 and 4 like I expectEd.

I still will heat my intake as soon as possible but it runs and sounds better now and as soOn as the bogging and smoke and clatter cleaned up, it was a whole mother truck!

 

99.99% sure your problem was NOT that your plugs were gapped too tight.

Engines ran well for years with gaps spec'd at .035".

I gap my 7500 RPM capable, magneto ignited race car at .020".

 

I'm certain I still need heated intake along with proper air. Leaner and heated air, however the issues I had are instantly gone and that's the only thing I changed besides fluids. It's much colder now then it was the other day and it took about five seconds for the old issues to clean up which was no where enough to warm the engine up or anything.

Unless something broke free in the carb that was clogging it or something, then I don't know.

There was also cheap spark plugs and my dui says to run good ones with a higher gap.

 

^^^ Yup! I've just gotten used to it.



The DUI says to run Autolite platinum plugs at a 0.055" gap. The platinums (at least here) are $2.99 a pop, which only came out to $20. Not too bad.

My guess is that when you regapped your plugs, you were able to more efficiently burn off the [i]extra[i/] fuel that's being dumped into your engine. It didn't SOLVE your problem, but it helped to fight back against whatever's causing it.

You need to figure out why it's dumping so much fuel, which it sounds like what your other thread is about. Keep at it, you'll get it tracked down.

 

I have had that problem with another carb. I would get a flash light and run the truck then turn it off and shine the light in the bore of the primaries and watch for about 7 minutes to see if fuel is dripping into the bore after you shut it down. Do you have headers? Is the Carb Hot? Do you use a phenolic spacer or a heat shield? Good luck.

 

yes I have headers.
Yes there's a heat shield.
I haven't looked at it since I got my heat shield and the heated intake installed. Nor have I driven it since i can now see how terribly rich it is.