So I just had my motor built.
300 .05 over 10:1 1.76rollers rv cam 390 pistons dui distributor the whole nine yards.

Got it running and driving great! A little rich but I was working on that.

I then put my air cleaner on and it would bog, my initial thought was too much restriction, but then it went away after the truck warmed up( let it high idle a few minutes then I'd go and it's stop bogging after about two miles)

Changed air cleaners a couple of times and it helped/hurt it. Go to drive to breakfast and I planned on getting a hot air cleaner. (the standard fancy chrome ones) and it boggeD a little bit but it was colder today then any other time I've driven the truck. Which has about 500 miles on by now.

put it on and it's bad, so I pull over and take it off, still the same, so I'm like hmm what gives. I did also switch to the rear tank around this time. Which has been empty ish for the last year, but the front tank was too and never gave an issue.

As I drive the three miles home my oil pressure gauge starts going crazy. Bouncing all around. Like shaking like a tach would with a real bad interference. Park it and my oil didn't smell like gas, but I had to go so I dropped the truck and left.

Things to check.

Radiator fluid (for oil)
oil smells like gas
oil will burn on dip stick with pocket lighter(gas)
spark plugs
Leak down and compression test.

My truck ran great until I did this stupid air cleaner. If I was on grass or something I could spin the tires on(a blip to 2k) it'd let a little puff of black smoke. there is a carbon foot print when I let it idle to warm up, however using a white paper towel held to the exhaust( which is short and doesn't have a cat) it was just moisture and carbon, no oil nor gas smell.

any other ideas or comments? I'm hoping it's all good in the morning...I've got too much into this to rebuild the motor again the soon

I have this posted in the straight 6 forum also.

 

I had a bad bogging problem on my truck (1980 F-150, 300-6) for a while, and it turned out that the flap between the intake and exhaust manifolds that allows exhaust heat to warm the intake had broken in the closed position. I fixed that, fixed the heat riser from the manifold to the intake snorkus on the air cleaner, and fixed the flapper inside the snorkus, and I haven't bogged since. Not saying for sure that's your problem, but it's worth considering.

You can read my tale of woe here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...bout-this.html

 

An engine will not burn liquid fuel. The fuel has to be atomized into a mist much like what happens to paint when it goes through a spray gun. A carb is a complicated version of a spray gun, spraying fuel into the engine.

I am going to assume you have a small 4bbl intake and 4bbl carb on this engine with a exhaust header or late model dual exhaust manifolds. If you do, that is going to be the main part of your problem. You have no way to heat the intake manifold or carb. The fuel is spraying from the carb and as soon as it hits the cold intake it turns back into liquid fuel. It then rolls around in the bottom of the intake, making some cylinders lean because now they are not getting any fuel, just air, and as the fuel rolls around in the bottom of the intake, it finds it's way into a random cylinder and it floods that cylinder out. No wonder the engine doesn't run very well.

The factory had this problem too, and they attacked it from several angles. Did you notice how the factory intake mounted directly to the exhaust manifold? The reason, to heat the intake. Also the factory aircleaner had a snorkel with a hot air hose going down to a stove around the exhaust manifold. It had a vacuum air temp sensor that controlled the door in the snorkel of the aircleaner. When the air was about 100 degrees or less, the door in the snorkel would close and draw warm air up from around the exhaust manifold stove. When the air got too hot, the door will slowly crack open, letting cool air in from beside the radiator.

Clifford makes a carb adapter that runs coolant through it to heat it up to help the problem. I believe if you found a factory aircleaner(one from a v8 should fit your 4bbl) and hooked all that back up, I believe you might get the problem to go away. I made my own heat stove when I had headers, here's how I did it.

 

I have a heated intake from a old 429 mustang, but it's got a huge square hole. I'll have to fix that.

So if I fix that and have a heated intake and carb it should fix the issue? . ..

 

This issue wasn't there one a morning a drive it in thirty degree weather. It was 54 today.

Do you think it's slowly built up into an actual cylinder washing issue?

 

Cylinder washing will do nothing but wear the engine out prematurely. And of course to be washing cylinders, you will be running extremely rich.

Are you saying you have a aircleaner from a 429? As long as it fits and the vacuum stuff works on it, you should be able to rig it up and use it. I am sure it will get rid of at least some of your problems. Even the v8 guys really can't run open aircleaners without some cold morning problems.

 

I have an old heated carb spacer off of an old 429. It's got a big square hole where the v8 manifold would close it off. So I'd have to figure something out to block that off.

 

I figured it out!
My spark plugs weren't gapped right! Thery were at around 38-42. I needed 55.

Changed everything checked my gaps replaced the oil, even tapped a torch to the oil and no flame. Cranked her up and the little bit of smoke I was used to seeing(which I wrote off as just running rich with such short exhaust slowly went away along with my lifter clatter dissapearing. A couple cylinders had a little wear in them more then the others, but it was w2 and #5. Not 3 and 4 like I expectEd.

I still will heat my intake as soon as possible but it runs and sounds better now and as soOn as the bogging and smoke and clatter cleaned up, it was a whole mother truck!