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Adding Drain Plug 4R70W

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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 01:56 AM
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Question Adding Drain Plug 4R70W

I am planning on adding this Dorman transmission drain plug to my truck's 4R70W the next time it gets serviced. Is there a preferred location to make the hole in the pan?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rn...FUE0aQodiyQAqQ
 
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 02:56 AM
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I can't help you on location,,,,,
but I recommend NOT using that drain plug.

get yourself a factory engine oil drain plug, then get a nut that fits it.

Drill the hole where it needs to be, put drain plug thru hole and hand tighten nut.

Then tack weld the nut to the inside of the pan.

Remove drain plug and completely weld nut to the inside of the pan.

How you have a REAL hole to drain the oil and the nut will NEVER spin or leak
 
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
How you have a REAL hole to drain the oil and the nut will NEVER spin or leak
What he said. Don't mess with that type of plug, get a real one and if you don't have a welder then a weld shop will do the job for a few bucks.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 02:20 AM
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I already have this one. What's really wrong with it? I know people that have used this kit with no issues. Does anyone have a recommendation on what plug to get or where to get it from? I have not really found anything else when searching. Several other companies offer the same style kit as this Dorman one.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by TexasGuy001
I already have this one. What's really wrong with it? I know people that have used this kit with no issues. Does anyone have a recommendation on what plug to get or where to get it from? I have not really found anything else when searching. Several other companies offer the same style kit as this Dorman one.
They leak, they come loose, and they take FORVER to drain
 
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 11:21 AM
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I have that Summit drain plug in my AOD pan... it has never leaked. I installed the plug in the little dimple on the bottom of the pan.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 01:33 PM
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Used the Dorman one in my e40d at low dimple. I cheated and used red Locktite on it and tightened the devil out of it. No leak 3 yrs.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 05:52 PM
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If its good enough for Conanski, its good enough for me. I'm not really concerned with the length of time require for draining, just want to avoid the mess.

I think the 4wd pan has a low dimple, but the 2wd pan doesn't. I guess I'll have to look and see where a suitable spot will be.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 08:03 PM
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they''re steel pans right? if so could a fella just drill a hole and weld a nut on the outside and use a bolt with a copper washer on the end of it? i watched an episode of "trucks" on the speed channel and he did that to a rear diff cover on a jeep Cherokee.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 11:24 PM
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You guys must be great welders (but then I am really only am a grinder trying to become a welder). Because welding a thin pan to a thick bung drain plug didn't work for me.

First, the thin pan is easy to blow holes in when you are trying to heat the thick bung to fuse the metal with the thin pan.

Second, no matter how hard I tried to clean the used transmission pan (with acetone, etc.) I couldn't seem to get all the oil out of the pores of the metal. Then while welding, the metal would gas off causing porosity in my weld which leaked ATF. I must have taken that pan off and re-welded it three times to try to fix ATF seepage before finally blowing a hole so big in it that I gave up and bought an F Series 4x4 deep pan & filter for my E Series 2wd 4R100.

So, if any of youse guys have actually successfully done this, please educate me as to how you did it.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim Hodgson
You guys must be great welders (but then I am really only am a grinder trying to become a welder). Because welding a thin pan to a thick bung drain plug didn't work for me.

First, the thin pan is easy to blow holes in when you are trying to heat the thick bung to fuse the metal with the thin pan.

-snipped-
Are you using a flux-core wire welder or gas shield welder?

I wouldnt try it with a flux core, but I wouldnt think twice with a gas 110v welder. I'd torch the area first to burn out the ATF in the pores, then do a tiny tack to hold it in place. Then burn it hot in one pass, holding the heat on the bung, not the pan. Did the same thing with a gas tank. I think I have pictures of how I did that somewhere.
 
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