Dunno if it's quite worth $2700, but don't expect to pay less than $2000. If it were an automatic, you might get it for $1600-1800. But around here at least, a good-running 4x4 manual diesel is worth $2000 minimum. Manual + diesel + 4x4 == zombie apocalypse pole shift SHTF prepper machine.

 

Seller says the 4x4 shifter knuckle is broken, front drive shaft is broken but he has been driving it... maybe it was just the u-joint that was broken. Said he had to fix a bunch of stuff the PO said worked fine. I am going to see it but very cautious of it.

BTW Madpogue, I lived in Mad City in junior high; 84-86. Great town. My son's hockey team was just there for a tourny too.

 

^^^^^ Definite bargaining chips. Sounds like all bolt-up-able repairs, but with what amounts to a non-functional 4-wheel-drive, that puts the truck back into the sub-$2000 range.

 

Wow, I need to shop for trucks where you guys live! Around Denver, the tires and rims/ ZF5 / Dana 60 and the lift kit alone are worth well over the asking price. I would definitely do my homework, But without any more red flags, I would say she is worth up to $2500.00 for sure.

Good luck,

Mac.

 

I'd say it's a good deal... looks like a nice truck to me.
I'd try to get it down a few hundred, though; just because. Or have him throw something else in; do some haggling.

 

That's actually true just about anywhere. But the OP isn't looking for tires/rims, a tranny, a front end and/or a lift kit. Nor is he looking to deal with a remaining hulk after parting all that stuff out. He's looking for a TRUCK. So yeah, it could be argued that it's worth more in parts than as a whole truck, but someone interested in storing it, parting it out, listing the parts, etc. would have to step up. As a whole truck, it needs work, and the OP should bargain from that point.

Indeed, the seller might make that very argument, that he can get more for the truck parting it out. The OP should be ready to invite the seller to do just that. But it may be MORE in the seller's interest to sell it all at once for LESS, just to get it off his hands.

 

Around here and imo 2500-3k is a fair price for that. Depends on the people, some a lift decreases value, some it adds. The SAS is a definite plus. You could lose 4-5" and still clear 37s. If flex and ride is important to you, check out a rear shackle kit. Precision metal fab makes one to use with longer and cheaper super duty springs. The exrtra length helps with flex and ride. I have it on my 92 and LOVE the difference it made. Check the rear and make sure there isnt any stacked blocks, and the block isnt taller than 5-6"

Test drive will tell you alot, if its done right, it will drive fine. If it doesnt drive right, best to just walk away. IE, sways, bumpsteer, excessive loosness, shimmy when hitting the brakes. And always ask why hes getting rid of it, that can tell you alot.

 

I am not necessarily in the market for a project. I can fix stuff when it breaks but I'd rather spend money on something that works for the most part. I already have enough motorized toys in my fleet that require attention. Trying to arrange time to see it but I think for me to pay more than $2K at this point is not worth my time unless it's really solid in other areas.

 

Aside from the lift and the wheels it looks like a nice truck and the price doesn't seem too bad as long as the rust isn't excessive.

Me, I'd bring it back to stock height, and a more conservative tire and wheel. To me when I see a truck jacked way up and over-sized tires I see a toy and I like my trucks to be ready to work and work hard. You could probably recoup some money by the resale of the tires and wheels and lift kit.

It's just an opinion, but hey, that's what was asked for.

 

A modest lift is fine, so yes, I would bring it back down.

I do need AC though, for the kids mainly; don't use it much myself. Humidity here can be brutal. Is there the possibility to swap to R134 components?