FUEL/IGNITION?
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
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FUEL/IGNITION?
Brand new to site but I already have a problem. Yesterday (1/03/15) a bought a 1972 f-250. Great looking truck, engine bay super clean, interior recently redone. Drove it and it drove like a truck supposed to. Driving it home on the 15 towards San Diego I noticed it was losing power as I went up steep inclines, the first hill wasn't to bad but it progressively got worse and about 7 miles from my home I pulled off highway and it died. I tried to start and it would barely start to run I'd feather pedal and it would increase rpm I could get it to stay but as soon as I let off pedal it would die again and occasionally a medium loud pop when it shut down. I removed fuel filter and still won't run. I saw thread on here regarding fuel delivery so that and ignition will be my next troubleshooting adventure. I was very excited to by this truck (my first ford) Now I am not sure.... any help would be appreciated.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2014
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Welcome to the forum! Don't get down about small issues with a 50 year old truck. They occur. One of the biggest issues that have been addressed (and I'm no mechanic) is the distributor condensor. Give more detail about the truck and someone here will help you out for sure. There's a lot of really intelligent ford experts here. Enjoy the truck and realize that it is very simple to work on and very fun to own!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
More details please
Sounds like a possible condensor, dizzy not advancing properly, Maybe a bad fuel pump. Power valve might be stuck.
Whatever it is, it's easy to fix
I had my share of problems with my truck, but now it runs like a champ and is as reliable as a brand new truck.
Sounds like a possible condensor, dizzy not advancing properly, Maybe a bad fuel pump. Power valve might be stuck.
Whatever it is, it's easy to fix
I had my share of problems with my truck, but now it runs like a champ and is as reliable as a brand new truck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I'd Look at all the engine wiring over, around the coil that all wires our on tight.
If all looks good pop open the dizzy and check the points out opening to .017 gap.
Check in side the dizzy that the ground wire is good and all tight and not broken.
Check that the condensor wire is no shorted to the dizzy housing from rubbing the insulation off. This very common problem if not carful when replacing them.
Check points wire for any shorting and not shorting or broken inside the insulation.
Check for voltage at points when opening & closing.
If all good check that fuel pump is working and has a good flow.
Just for starters.
Orich
If all looks good pop open the dizzy and check the points out opening to .017 gap.
Check in side the dizzy that the ground wire is good and all tight and not broken.
Check that the condensor wire is no shorted to the dizzy housing from rubbing the insulation off. This very common problem if not carful when replacing them.
Check points wire for any shorting and not shorting or broken inside the insulation.
Check for voltage at points when opening & closing.
If all good check that fuel pump is working and has a good flow.
Just for starters.
Orich
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Garner NC
I'm going to guess rust from the tank has clogged up the carb. Once it is in the carb clogging the idle circuit (which is never 'out' of the equation as far as carb operation is concerned) then the rest goes to heck. First have a known starting point.
1. Replace everything that is a soft part. Wires, hoses, etc.
2. General Tune up; Plugs, points, wires, condenser and coil (it is over 4 decades old).
3. Check the booster if power brake equipped and the vac advance on the distributor for leaking.
4. Rebuild the carb, use the Ford kit. Use carb dip. Do not bother with pinesol or some other old wives tale cleaner. I blast with baking soda, dip and then clean with mineral spirits and compressed air (shop air, not can).
5. Check the sediment can hanging under the pump for sediment. Replace the filter.
6. If you see sediment there's much more to do.
1. Replace everything that is a soft part. Wires, hoses, etc.
2. General Tune up; Plugs, points, wires, condenser and coil (it is over 4 decades old).
3. Check the booster if power brake equipped and the vac advance on the distributor for leaking.
4. Rebuild the carb, use the Ford kit. Use carb dip. Do not bother with pinesol or some other old wives tale cleaner. I blast with baking soda, dip and then clean with mineral spirits and compressed air (shop air, not can).
5. Check the sediment can hanging under the pump for sediment. Replace the filter.
6. If you see sediment there's much more to do.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
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Thank you, I replaced fuel pump, carb is getting gas, replaced plugs, doesn't have condenser previous owner switched to electronic. It turns over great. Ignition coil? My Dad is used to help me with all of this but he past away in July and he's probably laughing at me right now knowing that it's probably something easy and right in front of my face. I will replace ignition coil next and see what happens.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Coils don't normally just die out, they 1. When they get warmed or hot it starts loosing power like a plugged gas filter. Run ok when cold or become very weak and engine bogs down when stepping on the gas.
To test it, when grounding coil wire to engine it will have a weak spark like yellowish.
When good it will have a Blue snapping spark when good. Don't just keep throwing parts at it until you get lucky.
But you'll have a good supply of your extra used good part to look at for a number of yrs just incase needed again.
orich
To test it, when grounding coil wire to engine it will have a weak spark like yellowish.
When good it will have a Blue snapping spark when good. Don't just keep throwing parts at it until you get lucky.
But you'll have a good supply of your extra used good part to look at for a number of yrs just incase needed again.
orich
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Garner NC
You're right Orich. Coils have varying states of decay. I had a 53 Chevy back in the 80's and I chased it running, but not the best, for a long time. Finally changed the coil when a new wiring harness didn't help and it was a completely different truck. Didn't even hear the starting motor on start up it caught so fast. Cheap insurance, IMHO. And your description of how they fail fits the OP's description of his problem to a 'T.'
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 304
From: Kenner,La.
running bad
You did not say which electronic ignition it has. If it is a Ford Duraspark there is a small pin thar holds the reluctor in place, they have a tendency to wear and the reluctor will slip on the rotor shaft causing the problem you describe. Whichever one you have they all have a similar attaching system.
Grab the reluctor and try to rotate it on the shaft, it should not move.
Good luck
Grab the reluctor and try to rotate it on the shaft, it should not move.
Good luck
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
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Thank you all for your input. I purchased a new coil however had to leave on business for 10 days. When I get home I will update you all on my progress. Thanks again for helping me out.....this forum is really amazing I'm so glad I signed up...THANK YOU!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 4
From: Cupertino
As Jeff said above. Or the distributor bushing may be seizing up and dragging the shaft around, killing timing. Check timing, if it is way off pull the distributor, check to see if the shaft turns freely.
If you have an ohmmeter you can check the primary and secondary coil resistance. Post up the numbers and we will come back to you.
My first reaction to your symptoms was fuel starvation.
If you have an ohmmeter you can check the primary and secondary coil resistance. Post up the numbers and we will come back to you.
My first reaction to your symptoms was fuel starvation.
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Freshman User
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Ok I am back to troubleshooting truck. sorry if I don't know terminology, on the inside of distributor cap the thing that rest on top of rotor as it spins, isn't it supposed to move if you push down it (spring)? every other car I've ever had was like that. This one does not move at all it's as if it got pushed down really hard and never released???