FUEL/IGNITION?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,237
Likes: 298
From: Kenner,La.
not running
The rotor should "spring" in the direction of rotation which is cou ter clock wise.
It also could be a bad resistance wire that powers up the coil. I have seen them in the past where after they get hot the voltage goes away. You should have at least 8 volts when the engine is running measured at the "BAT" terminal on the coil. You should have a good spark from the coil wire when holding it 1/2" to 3/4" away from the manifold when cranking.
It also could be a bad resistance wire that powers up the coil. I have seen them in the past where after they get hot the voltage goes away. You should have at least 8 volts when the engine is running measured at the "BAT" terminal on the coil. You should have a good spark from the coil wire when holding it 1/2" to 3/4" away from the manifold when cranking.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
I bought carb rebuild kit yesterday and its been soaking all night. So if it doesn't fire up today after rebuild and new coil, new cap and rotor, new fuel pump & inline filter, new plugs I will be at a dead end....
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
I don't mean to insult you but since I don't know you yet I gotta ask, You did take the carb apart and are soaking just the metal parts....right?
We'll take the place of Good Ol' Pops the best we can.
Hang in there Buddy.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
That is a Pertronix Ignitor. They are excellent, tho (just like points) if the key is left in the RUN position with engine not running, the coil and module can be damaged. Make sure the mag ring is fully seated and the gap is approx .030
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Yes, it's a slip fit over the distributor shaft, and the body of the module and the mag ring should be .030 in. apart. Not a major deal, just something to check. You should check the coil for proper ohms on the primary and secondary windings, at least. Substitute a known good coil if possible.
What coil is installed now? If it has an internal resistor, you would want to bypass the truck's "pink wire" resistor. If not, not.
What coil is installed now? If it has an internal resistor, you would want to bypass the truck's "pink wire" resistor. If not, not.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Ah Ha! I was right in post #13. There is a bolt and a rather triangular shaped retainer clamp at the base of the Dizzy. Hopefully there is a Ford retainer clamp there and some wingnut didn't put just a washer there. Get yourself a "distributor wrench" to tighten that bolt and a timing light.. I believe Sears still carries them. Ford is the 1/2" size. (GM is the 9/16). Mark the timing marks with chalk or white paint. Have a Buddy start it for you while you holding the Dizzy. Get it started and then finish timing it. Then tighten that bolt. Double check the dizzy won't spin and fire it up and double check the timing.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Yes those unit can go bad. You should not have more then a .030 air gap from magnets rotor to the pickup unit. And no closer then .008 incase of a warn upper bushing so the rotor won't hit the pick up unit..
I setup up mind at .010 air gap when I was running one of these units.
Voltage from key to coil no less 8volts.
Orich
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa