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351 Yes correct, but it won't run for long with a bad timing gear and will all need replacing, I was trying to get him do something, So he's understand.
Most likely the pump drive rod may drop. Then that's another story.
He can pull the wires at the cap and move them over one hole. This will give him
that much more he can turn the dizzy to bring it back in time and kinda running.
Do this only to prove beyond doubt that it has indeed jumped a tooth. Don't ask me
what way to rotate the wires as I always get it wrong and end up starting
completely over from #1 TDC. Don't pull the dizzy and drop the oil pump shaft
until you try this. It's the same thing.
But still the easiest is to rock the engine over by hand and watch the rotor cap.
If the engine turns much if any at all before the rotor does than the timing set is shot.
It's easy, It's fun.
Alright smart Ford people...... I did everything you all said and moved dizzy over one tooth and ...........IT STARTED RIGHT UP.....AWESOME...put timing light on it, sounded good then went to give it some gas and it died and wouldn't start back up, I'm sure had I listened to what was said early on and never messed with carb I probably wouldn't have to figure out how to properly adjust it.....but none the less I am happy it started and I didn't lose my cool
It's a 360.....Now I'm nervous....pump rod drop? When I pulled distributor I looked down inside and saw hole where shaft sits and inside that hole I see pump drive rod. If it drops is it obvious?
It's a 360.....Now I'm nervous....pump rod drop? When I pulled distributor I looked down inside and saw hole where shaft sits and inside that hole I see pump drive rod. If it drops is it obvious?
Yes it's obvious. If it drops it won't be there, it will be in the bottom of the oil pan.
So, I'd say your next big step would be to pull the water pump and timing cover to have a look at the timing set.
Not to **** in this fellows Wheaties, if the timing set and chain is trashed, isn't the rest of the engine basically ready for a rebuild? Compression, oil pressure, lower end bearings, valve guides and seals? OR, can the timing set be replaced and the engine huff along merrily for another 75k?
Get it on TDC and look at the rotor. If it's on the #1 cylinder it's OK. I'm thinking the roll pin on the distributor shaft is sheared and it keeps jumping timing. The rotor may not be turning but it can, just in the wrong place.
Ha now go have a few cold beers. Put your feet up seat back and think about what a wonderful day it is. Unless it's raining or snowing.
About a 100 bucks to do the chain replacement set gaskets, May be this will buy you some time until you have the bucks to rebuild the whole engine. Plus if you don't have the harden exh seats 1972 & up heads # D2 to D4 you'll need to rebuilt the heads and have those harden seats installed $700-$850 in most shops just for the heads.
A basic rebuilt about $1800-$2300. See now this why, I said to drink a few beers as it don't sound so bad once you cool down a little..
Maybe there is a problem with the pin in the dizzy. But I don't think so.
This is a classic worn and slipping timing set. I wish I could be there to
look at it and help you with it. Have you rocked the crank back and forth
while watching the rotor to see how much slop is in it? Bud ya have got
to do this. Much if any play and it's prolly slipping.