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I looked around quickly and typed in a search but didn't see what I was looking for so that I'd ask.
The OEM master cylinder on my 48f1 is dead/or dieing and was wondering if people were mostly just using a stock replacement or going to a more modern dual chamber master cylinder. btw I'm still using all the oem drum brakes and they're fine for my needs.
Any recommendations?
I live out in Calif .. SF bay area..and will probably buy something from the local Sacto Vintage Ford..most of their stuff has worked good for me.
I went with the full blown CPP power disc brake kit up front. It's a good amount of work, but well worth it in the long run I think. For me I was needing to replace all the old lines and my king pins anyway, so I just figured I'd tackle it all in one shot. I wish I still live near Sac now that I finally have my truck. There are a few great places for parts there. Good luck!
I went with the full blown CPP power disc brake kit up front. It's a good amount of work, but well worth it in the long run I think. For me I was needing to replace all the old lines and my king pins anyway, so I just figured I'd tackle it all in one shot. I wish I still live near Sac now that I finally have my truck. There are a few great places for parts there. Good luck!
i got a mustang ('67?) dual master for an all drum system from napa. bought an adapter kit for mounting it, some obv revisions of the brake lines. back in business.
When I replaced the brake system on the 64, researching 50 year old tech, the graybeards in some of the discussion forums pointed out that a dual master cylinder is both A.The only way to go, and B. Very often installed incorrectly.
Something to do with obtaining full stroke length of the brake rod on the cylinder - the gist of it was, if it's setup incorrectly the brake system during a hose, line, or single wheel cylinder failure would then fail on all four corners, same as a single pot!
What I'm getting at, if you go to the trouble of upgrading the M/C and reroute brake lines, make sure the damn thing actually works as advertised. You might be surprised, and not in a good way. Another issue if you're running a drum/drum system, then you want a dual master for a drum/drum system, not the later type used for disc/drum setups.
Bought my master cylinder (single) from napa. Perfect fit, and it stops all the power my 226 puts out. A 60 year old guys single cylinder mc goes out, he takes control of the situation, uses the emergency brake and muddles it on home. A 20 yr. old in the same situation, runs off the road, hits a fence post, calls 911 and blames the manufacturer for not having a dual cylinder mc. Go figger.
Bought my master cylinder (single) from napa. Perfect fit, and it stops all the power my 226 puts out. A 60 year old guys single cylinder mc goes out, he takes control of the situation, uses the emergency brake and muddles it on home. A 20 yr. old in the same situation, runs off the road, hits a fence post, calls 911 and blames the manufacturer for not having a dual cylinder mc. Go figger.
Funny I was 9 miles from home when my brake pedal started the ultimate spongy with the pedal going to the floor. I did pretty much exactly as you say. I'd had some little warnings on previous outings..so I wasn't totally surprised..I'm still thinking maybe the master cylinder is OK and I ran it low on fluid and now the existing MC just needs to be bench bled etc.
I bought a new mc at NAPA ..not exactly the same but similar to the OEM version.. but I'm gonna see if i can first bench bleed the existing MC in the truck as is..and see if that doesn't solve the problem.
Brake drums work OK, but a couple differences from then they routinely used to arc the brake shoes to the drum and this esp. helps with the older of the old style drum brakes, the non "self energized" type. Not sure if '48 brakes are that old.
A drum that has been turned quite a bit, standard new shoes will not fit as well, they would sell relined, thicker shoes to fit better, arc grind them, etc. Nobody does any of this kind of thing anymore hardly.
Everybody today thinks drum brakes suck, because they've only ever driven rigs with failing, misadjusted, worn out junk. Even a good drum brake system with new components, will fade after repeated panic stops, but how many panic stops in a row do you plan on making? The one thing that might matter is you mention you live in California. If the traffic is really heavy then a 4 drum system might not be the best choice, stop and go would get them hot and fade would be an issue. Remember, back in the day, everyone else had drum brakes and it sort of evened out, people kept their distance. Today, you leave a couple car length distance for safety and some moron will cut you off and stop on a dime right in front of you. See where I'm goin' with that?
01-02-2015, 09:48 AM
