Hi, Im wondering from the side of Chevy because I've found a possible project to share with a friend. We are planning to go halfs on a 1957 Ford F500. Here is what I know about it (went to see it monday);

292 v8
4spd w/creeper gear
single speed axle
runs + drives
Needs master cylinder
Both side windows broken
Tires are ok, but dont hold air if the truck sits
Price - $600

Here are some pics for you.







Here is the bad master cylinder;





Now some questions...

Anyone have any leads on where to get a master cylinder?
Are tires still available for it? Is it 22 or 22.5'' rims?
Basicly.... is there ANY place I can get parts for it?

 

sure its the master cyl ? looks like a clutch cyl to me?

 

Well, it has no brakes *shrugs*

 

That is the clutch cylinder. The master cylinder is the one closer to the engine. You should be able to get the clutch cylinder at NAPA. For no brakes make sure there is fluid in the master cylinder, check for leaks on the brakes. You also could have air in the brake booster. You will find this under the truck.

 

It looks like you've stumbled onto a super rare Limited Edition model (only about 14 made) with the front mounted mower deck.

 

You can probably get the master cylinder(or a kit) at NAPA. The frame mounted Brake Booster is another thing entirely. That will have to come from a truck brake place or a rebuild place. (see if it has one.....most of them are frame mounted on the big trucks.)

Also.....those 5 lug wheels look like BUD wheels......are they splits? or are they Lock-rings?

In either case your local tire place will NOT put tires on them if they are too rusty. Are they 20" tires? If so...they're not tubeless. Not a lot of choices in 20" tires out there....

I had to buy rebuilt wheels and new front tires and recap's for the back for my 55 F-600.

Total it was about $2800!(6 wheels, $225 each, 4 9.00-20 radial recaps, $200 each + tubes, flaps, mount and 2 Toyo 9.00-20 radial tube type tires+ tubes/flaps.

They wouldn't touch my old wheels! (2 piece "Widow-makers") I was given 8 questionable lockring type wheels that were so rusty that the tire place rejected them all (I agreed too!) The other place to check is where the lug nuts contact the tapered lug area of the wheel. If it's thinner than a nickle they'll reject them too.

You do not want to be driving down the road and either have a tire or a wheel go on you and run over someones kid with a 7000lb truck!

I also replaced ALL the brake wheel cyls, reline all the brake shoes, turn all 4 drums, replace all the rear wheel bearings/races/seals, replace all the front leafspring bushings, and replace the front axle kingpins. That was all about $1200 (I rebuilt the master cyl......about $20) I'm also replacing the entire ignition system. and I had to replace the muffler and tailpipe.

The bed is shot. it's an 7' x 11' bed that someone replaced the wood with steel plate. Looks like someone made it in their backyard with a Monkey-Wards buzz-box! I didn't really care since I'm either going to replace it with a nice one or build one myself with my Monkey-Wards Buzz-Box!(Miller Synchrowave 180!)

I haven't even started on the cab! It's in pretty good shape but it'll need a little corner work. and there's a few holes in the floor plus it needs new glass, and all the interior window hardware!

I probably have $7500 in this thing so far! It ain't over either! (is it ever over?)


Anyway I love that 57. you'll get yours a little cheaper than I got my 55 but plan on spending lots of money on it!

Regards,

Rick

 

They arnt split rim, to my knowledge they are regular "lipped" wheels, but he said they are 22''.

I just noticed my friend did take the wrong picture (I wasnt at the helm of the camera, im in the one picture). the owner says the master cylinder is the culprit to why it wont move, and I did find it at napa for $140. He said the master just goes down to a distribution block which then sends pressure to the front and rear wheels.

I forgot to mention that before the truck was parked (2002) the owner had the front suspension completely re-done to the bill of over 2 grand. Even had new leaf springs custom made for it. The tires have good tread on them, they just loose air if it sits for a prolonged period of time.

 

Is this referring to that brake booster?

CARDONE WITH MASTER CYLINDER 51-8062 LLT $61.00 $103.97
HYDRO-VAC (COMPLETE WITH SLAVE CYLINDER)

 

THAT would be great!

I did most of the front end work on my F-600 and it was still about $750! and I didn't replace the springs!

THe back springs are also very expensive (the fronts would have been about $700 alone!) The problem is that no one stocks those big springs for the old trucks so they have to be made up sorta special.

The pictures looked like 5 lug wheels. Those are somewhat rare... I would have bought 22.5 5 lug wheels if they were available so I could get tubeless tires. Les Schwab http://www.lesschwab.com/ said I could not get 5 lug 22.5" wheels.

There's no vacuum brake booster? if there's just a master cyl then you might be able to change over to a power brake/double reservoir unit. ...it's the way to go...


Sounds like fun!

Keep us posted!

Cheers,

Rick

 

Im not sure if it has the master cylinder or the brake booster. Was the system called the "Hydro-Vac"? Because if so, we can get it through where I work like I posted above...

 

The brake booster is most likely located on the frame under the cab. That's where mine is located on the F-600.

They used a "Hydrovac" for many years and I'd be surprised if yours is different.

I was able to buy a rebuilt one right off the shelf from Cascade Friction Materials in Tacoma WA for $125 exchange. THey send them to Portland OR for rebuilding.

It used to be possible to buy rebuild kits in the past but since these are not used as much as in the past I don't think rebuild kits are available anymore. I found rebuilt boosters for as much as $350. I really lucked out getting it for $125!

I found that all the wheel cyls were either leaking or they were frozen. The master cyl had a tear in the rubber "cup". THe seller told me that it only needed the brakes to be bled!! He left out the fact that EVERY part of the brake system needed to be replaced too!!



//

 

By the way.....if you look at the picture and notice the fitting with the hose clamp on it.....that's most probably the vacuum line that goes to the Hydrovac unit. Follow the hose down under the cab and it should lead to the vacuum actuator.

//

 

It looks like you have an interesting potential project truck. As the other guys and gals have mentioned, parts for the bigger trucks are harder to find and usually more expensive. JobLot Automotive (www.joblot.com) is one place that has more of the big truck parts. For example, the stock replacement master cylinder for your 1957 F-500 with manual brakes or the Midland Ross 10" booster should be part number C1TZ-2140-D. JobLot has it for $64.95. They also list the master cylinder repair kit B9D-2004 for $9.95 if yours doesn't have any serious pitting in the bore or other problems. Front and rear wheel cylinders, brake lines, etc. are also available. Good luck with your project.

 

it's most likely at this point u don't want me to say that appart from panels, we have scraped many of these f500/600 in the last year or so, down here they have very little resale so r not worth the effort to rebuild ( unless u really need to have one ) considering most were built there, could'nt u source a better starting point, old tyres r ok if it sits on display, but scooting down a highway u need good rubber.
generally as rick points out, when u start at the master cylinder, u can bet all the rubber lines and slave cylinders will need doing, maybe the linings and drums, etc etc and then u still have the paint/panel and trim, judging by what i have seen coming into the country lately, u guys still have some nice tin at fair pricing, something much better may be just around the corner
cya...gary

 

btw the tyres look similar to a 7;50..20 fitted to an f500 i have