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Dec 6, 2014 | 05:25 PM

#46

happscrap

Thread Starter

Senior User

Joined: Nov 2014

Posts: 365

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From: Clearwater, Fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yahiko

If you read in the 2006 Ford Workshop manual they also say that the back
bolts can't be installed without first putting then into the head before you
lower it into place.

Sean

That's right... I've also watched a video and seen someone's pics with them being held with rubber bands.

And i got the electrical manual today. Thank you!

Dec 6, 2014 | 06:40 PM

#47

Yahiko

Fleet Owner

Joined: Apr 2012

Posts: 27,307

Likes: 549

From: Spanaway

Good to hear that you got it.
The very handy part of that diagram book is in
the back. It's got all the plugs and pin assignments.

Enjoy

Sean

Dec 6, 2014 | 09:04 PM

#48

happscrap

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Senior User

Joined: Nov 2014

Posts: 365

Likes: 0

From: Clearwater, Fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yahiko

Good to hear that you got it.
The very handy part of that diagram book is in
the back. It's got all the plugs and pin assignments.

Enjoy

Sean

Good to know!

Dec 6, 2014 | 10:04 PM

#49

BryanStein

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Jul 2013

Posts: 1,402

Likes: 114

From: Tuscaloosa, AL

Quote:

Originally Posted by happscrap

Great info. I've read that some guys have dented there fire wall a little to get the torque wrench on as the special snap on tool doesn't work on the apr studs.

But your saying you can do the apr studs in cab but when installing the the head place studs in head and rubber band them.so they stay flush with the bottom of the head while placing head in truck??

Yes, that is what I am saying. As josh said above, you can bang in the firewall a bit, but people who have done this say you also have to take the motor mounts and tranny mounts loose and jack and twist the engine and tranny a little and get them in.

I don't think any of that is required to get the torque synch on them.

Dec 6, 2014 | 11:15 PM

#50

m-chan68

Lead Driver

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 5,505

Likes: 256

From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA

.....all of which to me seems to be a lot of trouble to go through, in order to undertake the very most important part of the process, rather than just simply lifting the cab and having it completely out of the way, no struggling or hacking up the firewall, or having concerns about the quality of the repair.

Dec 7, 2014 | 12:01 AM

#51

woodlander

Senior User

Joined: Jun 2010

Posts: 359

Likes: 0

I put some pics with comments from when I did the job on my homepage. I agree with mchan, would rather pull cab if doing it again but didnt have lift. At least it was easier by getting junk off front of engine.

Dec 7, 2014 | 12:47 AM

#52

happscrap

Thread Starter

Senior User

Joined: Nov 2014

Posts: 365

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From: Clearwater, Fl

I agree... and if I had the means of a lift I would go that route. I'm not scared at all to take on the job. Believe it or not... it's more of a hobby for me. I'm very meticulous,
as in I clean every part (even with a tushbrush), Polish the bolts on a buffer, im very organize as I'm sure most guys are but when you have 6 children (3-15 years of age) and you own a fleet of trucks you have to wrench on them.

But if it's NOT doable installing the arp head bolts with cab on then I'd have to re plan. I just can't let a shop do it. I had a hard enough time letting them do a tranny flush lol

But you are right about pulling the cab. Need to start a small shop biz with a lift in it that people can rent by the day. Liability insurance would be through the roof I bet!

Dec 7, 2014 | 01:00 AM

#53

happscrap

Thread Starter

Senior User

Joined: Nov 2014

Posts: 365

Likes: 0

From: Clearwater, Fl

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodlander

Just looked at your pics ... very cool... so installing one apr bolt at a time how hard was it to get back bolts in without removing the head?

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Dec 8, 2014 | 12:04 AM

#54

woodlander

Senior User

Joined: Jun 2010

Posts: 359

Likes: 0

For passenger side have to remove plastic cover on AC. It helps to have mirror or scope cant see all of the bolts on A C cover. Drivers side rear hardest. Jacked engine over and tranny up. Still had to dent firewall slightly. Several on here have done it. If you do remove heads, just zip tie bolt up that dont come out when removing heads. Then zip tie bottom passenger side studs and rear studs on drivers when going back in.