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Hope that is not in California. The Shake and Bake would not go over well.
Well I should call it Shake, flatten and bake. The blocks stacked that high
scare the living you know what out of me.
One reason I will never cross under any load that is up in the air.
If I don't have a need to be under it then I won't be. People I have
worked with in the past don't get it and I explain it and still.
Some day they might get it without "getting IT"
The IT in this case being squished. Never want to have to clean that up
of tell someone that someone is not coming home after work.
One reason I will never cross under any load that is up in the air.
If I don't have a need to be under it then I won't be. People I have
worked with in the past don't get it and I explain it and still.
Some day they might get it without "getting IT"
The IT in this case being squished. Never want to have to clean that up
of tell someone that someone is not coming home after work.
Sean
P.S. Testing the RED Fox. What do you think?
I hear you about getting under loads. I'm a certified arborist, owner of a large tree service company and we study dynamic and static loads and rigging. I have hanged over 4k from a rope over a homes at least 1000 times. Static loading is safer as dynamic loading adds mass weight to its load. If your playing with weight you better understand the risk and be trained on both sides of the coin. Or you will end up... well with a scraper as you put it! Lol
Keep in mind the ford manual is based on head bolts and not head studs.
One of the first guys that did suds and heads with the cab on posted that, for the rear studs, you have to insert the studs in the heads, holding them on with rubber bands on the top of the heads, before lowering the heads onto the block. There's not enough room to install the heads after installing the rear studs.
Keep in mind the ford manual is based on head bolts and not head studs.
One of the first guys that did suds and heads with the cab on posted that, for the rear studs, you have to insert the studs in the heads, holding them on with rubber bands on the top of the heads, before lowering the heads onto the block. There's not enough room to install the heads after installing the rear studs.
Great info. I've read that some guys have dented there fire wall a little to get the torque wrench on as the special snap on tool doesn't work on the apr studs.
But your saying you can do the apr studs in cab but when installing the the head place studs in head and rubber band them.so they stay flush with the bottom of the head while placing head in truck??
Keep in mind the ford manual is based on head bolts and not head studs.
One of the first guys that did suds and heads with the cab on posted that, for the rear studs, you have to insert the studs in the heads, holding them on with rubber bands on the top of the heads, before lowering the heads onto the block. There's not enough room to install the heads after installing the rear studs.
Keep in mind the ford manual is based on head bolts and not head studs.
One of the first guys that did suds and heads with the cab on posted that, for the rear studs, you have to insert the studs in the heads, holding them on with rubber bands on the top of the heads, before lowering the heads onto the block. There's not enough room to install the heads after installing the rear studs.
If you read in the 2006 Ford Workshop manual they also say that the back
bolts can't be installed without first putting then into the head before you
lower it into place.
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