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189,000km still tty, 100% full stock. Mines and 06 f-350 dually. I'm having some troubles with bucking, even when its warm. But it only bucks when in overdrive. When shes cold she is absolutely gutless so I ALWAYS let everything warm to normal operating temps. I change my oil every 4000km, anything she needs she gets. I tow always with it but only short distances (I haul a trailer to and from work 200km per week) When its idling it feels like its missing, like in a gas engine, i want to fix it but dont know where to begin. I dont think my mechanic is fully knowledgable with these special engines. He is very good at sourcing but I want to direct him a bit to save experimenting. Can someone help me please?
a few things your going to Need , Scan Gauge to Monitor the sensor Values this will help in over all monitoring temps too , you can try pulling the Valve and clean the soot , Use carb cleaner and a plumbers flux brush or soft bristle brush .
and ware your safety Glasses that stuff burn like .when was the last water separator drain and are you using Racor OEM fuel filters?
Im sorry, Im learning alot and may have questions. scan guage: Done, I have the address and getting it first thing in the morning? I will pull the egr and clean it like you said, maybe with a toothbrush, and yes it does burn the crap outta the eyes lol The last water drain would have been about a year ago when the mechanic changed it, see I asked him if there was a drain, he didnt know what I was talking about. I will inquire about the fuel filter
Im sorry, Im learning alot and may have questions. scan guage: Done, I have the address and getting it first thing in the morning? I will pull the egr and clean it like you said, maybe with a toothbrush, and yes it does burn the crap outta the eyes lol The last water drain would have been about a year ago when the mechanic changed it, see I asked him if there was a drain, he didnt know what I was talking about. I will inquire about the fuel filter
Auto Zone has them as well somewhere there is a code for the better deal have to try and locate that, in my Albums just click on my never mind I'll send you the link. Down under the drivers door on the frame is called the HFCM on the side of that is a allen nut, open and some diesel /water will or should come out now the OEM HFCM fuel filter will be white in color (not black) the Difference would be OEM has a water shield a little hole in the end. My Wife is trying to Talk to me and I forgot what I was going to say Link on it's way
Once you pull any codes, it will help get going the right direction.
Could be be VGT turbo vanes stuck, an injector gone bad, egr sooted/stuck, CAC boot leak, MAP hose leak, to name a few.
Bucking at low rpm under load helps to accentuate.
Sorry to burst your bubble, but if you don't have a scan tool that can perform a power balance test with weak cylinder contribution compensation strategy disabled, you might just be shooting in the dark so to speak. For the particular concern you describe, I suspect you have some weak injector(s). You can either pinpoint and replace the faulty one(s), or bite the bullet to replace all eight by the sounds of it.
I wold add As much as I like it, Scangauge isn't great at pulling codes. There is an xgauge the shows how many codes are stored and it seems to work pretty well. At least you'll know there is a code it just won't tell you what it is. Do a search in the 6.0 forum for "Scangauge codes". there are many lists and most have at least one error somewhere but there's many cool xGauges that aren't on the Linear Logic site.
Simple things that can be done are to put some archoil in, could be a sticky injector. My BIL used it and it made a big diffence he said. Instead of taking someones word for it just go ahead and change the filters, oil even, to ensure you know where you are with the truck. Thats what I do when I get a used vehicle and if its a gasser it gets plugs also.
What are the normal scanguage II readings is what I meant?
I would go back up to Rusty's chart above. Set your Scangauge to measuring IPR%, IPR v, ICP, EBP, vgt's, and MAP at either psi or BARO for starters.
As you can see it's got 3 different setting for necessary values, keoe, idle and 2,500 rpm.
Give us that data and it will much easier to start.
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