Fixing the P0299...
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2014
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Fixing the P0299...
Forum Members, let me start off by saying this forum is a fantastic resource, and by reading and searching, I feel confident in going after a coked up turbo as the source of the 299 code I got when pulling my buddy's toy hauler a few weeks ago. Now for my question, as I will be doing the wrenching myself, I am looking for a good list of parts numbers to use when I go shopping. I have decided that given the time/cost ratio, that I will replace the turbo itself (I could probably rebuild it, but to me, the amount of time would exceed the core charge at the local parts house), but beyond that, I am looking to upgrade to the larger oil tube, as well as replace any and all sensors necessary. Lastly, I will be replacing the two blue hoses on the outlet side of the turbo, as they both look a bit dodgy, especially the top one. Is there anything else I'm missing while I'm in there? And when I go to the local parts house, how can I be sure I'm getting the upgraded oil tube, or should I bite the bullet and head to the dealer for that part?
TIA....
TIA....
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,056
Likes: 236
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Welcome to FTE you came to the right place
Code P0299 (2004 & 2005 MY only) will be set if the difference between EP_G and EP_DES
meet any of the following conditions:
Greater than 14 kPa or 2 psi with RPM below 800 for 15 seconds
Greater than 20 kPa or 2.9 psi with RPM between 820 - 1995 for 30 seconds
Greater than 80 kPa or 11.6 psi with RPM above 2000 for 90 seconds.
So basically your going to Replace every part that Deals with turbo and its Function??
But your getting there and could be right turbo just needs clean more often then not dirty turbo creates overboost condition
Do you have a Gauge to see Live data??
If no Gauge then its going to be worth your Money to get one and Keep an eye on it these digital gauges will show everything
TURBOCHARGER GUIDE 6.0L
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...er%20Guide.pdf
Code P0299 (2004 & 2005 MY only) will be set if the difference between EP_G and EP_DES
meet any of the following conditions:
Greater than 14 kPa or 2 psi with RPM below 800 for 15 seconds
Greater than 20 kPa or 2.9 psi with RPM between 820 - 1995 for 30 seconds
Greater than 80 kPa or 11.6 psi with RPM above 2000 for 90 seconds.
So basically your going to Replace every part that Deals with turbo and its Function??
But your getting there and could be right turbo just needs clean more often then not dirty turbo creates overboost condition
Do you have a Gauge to see Live data??
If no Gauge then its going to be worth your Money to get one and Keep an eye on it these digital gauges will show everything
TURBOCHARGER GUIDE 6.0L
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...er%20Guide.pdf
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2014
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I don't yet have a gauge, it's on my shopping list (I like DashBoss, since I already have my iPhone in the truck for other uses...). Some additional info...I purchased the truck from the owners of a chain of day care centers in Las Vegas. The truck was used by their maintenance supervisor, who lived in Logandale (about 60 miles northeast), and with 181K miles on the clock, I was told they were "easy highway miles" (I didn't know this was a red flag at the time). The other thing I determined was that the truck would kick into "limp home" mode if the Turbo PSI gauge showed boost above 30PSI (though it did still set a code if I kept it under that). I also happened to meet an individual who worked at Ford on the 6.0L motor, and his first question when I mentioned the issue was whether the turbo had been replaced yet. Since I don't know, and it appears to be stock, my best guess is that the turbo is coked up (along with the pressure sensor) enough to cause issues when pulling a heavy load, but not enough when I'm driving the truck empty or with a minor load in the bed.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,056
Likes: 236
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
A Dashboss would be a Very worthwhile investment
to start to diagnose this you need to check the following sensors at KOEO--Idle--2500rpm (the KOEO reading is very important all 3 need to be within 1psi)
BARO
MAP
EBP
If those Numbers check out OK then you are to Clean Turbo and the EGR Valve
Theres a writeup on clean/rebuilding the turbo in the tech folder by Benchwrench
The Updated Supply oil Line will be Solid instead of the Braded one that comes stock as far as the Drain line its not a must have part
to start to diagnose this you need to check the following sensors at KOEO--Idle--2500rpm (the KOEO reading is very important all 3 need to be within 1psi)
BARO
MAP
EBP
If those Numbers check out OK then you are to Clean Turbo and the EGR Valve
Theres a writeup on clean/rebuilding the turbo in the tech folder by Benchwrench
The Updated Supply oil Line will be Solid instead of the Braded one that comes stock as far as the Drain line its not a must have part
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,056
Likes: 236
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
A Dashboss would be a Very worthwhile investment
to start to diagnose this you need to check the following sensors at KOEO--Idle--2500rpm (the KOEO reading is very important all 3 need to be within 1psi)
BARO
MAP
EBP
If those Numbers check out OK then you are to Clean Turbo and the EGR Valve
Theres a writeup on clean/rebuilding the turbo in the tech folder by Benchwrench
The Updated Supply oil Line will be Solid instead of the Braded one that comes stock as far as the Drain line its not a must have part
to start to diagnose this you need to check the following sensors at KOEO--Idle--2500rpm (the KOEO reading is very important all 3 need to be within 1psi)
BARO
MAP
EBP
If those Numbers check out OK then you are to Clean Turbo and the EGR Valve
Theres a writeup on clean/rebuilding the turbo in the tech folder by Benchwrench
The Updated Supply oil Line will be Solid instead of the Braded one that comes stock as far as the Drain line its not a must have part
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 25
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My Dash Boss arrived this week, and I got it installed and (mostly) working today. I remembered BARO and MAP, but couldn't remember EBP. My BARO reading stayed consistent while the MAP would hover around 28 at idle, and jump as high as 33 while driving. BTW, KOEO means Key On, Engine Off, right?
Also looks like I have the updated Oil Supply Line, as it is a solid tube.
Also looks like I have the updated Oil Supply Line, as it is a solid tube.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,283
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From: missouri
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,452
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From: Nor Cal
It's natural to blame the turbo as the cause of a P0299 under boost code, but do you really think your that lucky? The sad truth is these engines are much more complicated than that. If they were easy girls would be working on them ( no offense ment Cuba your special).
My 2006 was setting the P0299 code like clockwork, it started after pulling a heavy load up the Tehachapi grade.To make a long story short it ended up being my STC fitting, after a no start hot I replaced the fitting and never set the P0299 code again.
My factory turbo has 203,000 miles on it and has never been cleaned. The STC fitting cost $ 65.00 compared to a couple grand for a turbo.
Search and read this post by Bullitt390, the title is : Bad ICP sensor causes P0299 turbo code. This might explain my line of thinking that you might want to look at your HPOP system before you tear into it !!
My 2006 was setting the P0299 code like clockwork, it started after pulling a heavy load up the Tehachapi grade.To make a long story short it ended up being my STC fitting, after a no start hot I replaced the fitting and never set the P0299 code again.
My factory turbo has 203,000 miles on it and has never been cleaned. The STC fitting cost $ 65.00 compared to a couple grand for a turbo.
Search and read this post by Bullitt390, the title is : Bad ICP sensor causes P0299 turbo code. This might explain my line of thinking that you might want to look at your HPOP system before you tear into it !!
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,056
Likes: 236
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
As TIM mentioned^^^ lots of things would cause the P0299 Due to the Fact the Exhaust is used to generate Boost any problem in the system could cause low boost
So Yes KOEO Means Key On Engine Off
Take all 3 readings at that Key position (KOEO) they should all be within 1 psi of one another
Do it again at Idle
Then again at 2500rpm
Are the numbers you posted already in PSI or ??? KPA?? or something else?? seams like some gauges read it different
Josh can help you change how it reads if need be personally I like the readings in PSI but its not necessary
So Yes KOEO Means Key On Engine Off
Take all 3 readings at that Key position (KOEO) they should all be within 1 psi of one another
Do it again at Idle
Then again at 2500rpm
Are the numbers you posted already in PSI or ??? KPA?? or something else?? seams like some gauges read it different
Josh can help you change how it reads if need be personally I like the readings in PSI but its not necessary
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,056
Likes: 236
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
that graph its not what you need though
Instead of time or Duration of the test we need RPM. We Can NOT tell at what point you hit 2500rpm
We need specific Gauge values for the set Points
Set Points meaning (KOEO--Idle--2500rpm)
as far as I can tell the Graph showed Gauge Values for specific Times the test ran
Also what year truck
Instead of time or Duration of the test we need RPM. We Can NOT tell at what point you hit 2500rpm
We need specific Gauge values for the set Points
Set Points meaning (KOEO--Idle--2500rpm)
as far as I can tell the Graph showed Gauge Values for specific Times the test ran
Also what year truck
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 2
From: Southern Cal
AV,
I'm still working on mine too but my Dashboss isn't cooperating.
That boost looks really low, even out of gear at 2,500 rpm's.
The other thing I don't see and I'm trying to pull myself on my Dashboss is the EBP readings as those too should match BARO and MAP as Blades notes above.
Can you post those also?
I'm still working on mine too but my Dashboss isn't cooperating.
That boost looks really low, even out of gear at 2,500 rpm's.
The other thing I don't see and I'm trying to pull myself on my Dashboss is the EBP readings as those too should match BARO and MAP as Blades notes above.
Can you post those also?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 114
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
AV, you don't build more than about 1psi of boost without a load (2500 rpm in park). The real probem I see with your readings I'd the difference between map and baro is 3.9, but your boost reads 1.3. Shouldn't the boost the three difference in those two. But I don't use dash boss, so maybe I don't understand something.