No Battery Voltage
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No Battery Voltage
I am having a problem with the charging system.
New Batteries (still test at 1000CCA)
New Alternator (new 11/4/14)
My edge monitor (while running) says
0.0 volts on batteries
0.0 volts in FICM
It has new 58V Swamps FICM Atlas 40 w cold start and made sure all the plugs are plugged in.
Truck will not charge over 11.5V and alternator only is putting out 11.9V at positive output stud while running.
Guy at parts store said these trucks are bad for having the battery cables go bad, saying the corrosion climbs up the battery cable under the insulation. I did have some corrosion on the positive cables when I replaced the batteries in February but I cleaned them and sprayed the terminals with the cleaner and sealer to prevent corrosion. But if it climbed up the positive leads there is no way I know how to clean it. The alternator passed all tests at the store. It is only putting out 11.9V while running because they said it is all the computer is requesting from the alternator. The truck is running while the gauge says 0.0V so I know its getting power or the truck would not run the FICM to run the truck. The battery light is staying on, on the dash.
Has anyone changed out the battery cables, positive or negative, and how hard is it and what are the part numbers. I don't really have time to do it myself but dealer probably charges way too much to do it, to undo all the wire looms and replace seems pretty overwhelming to me.
Do I just disconnect the grounds and clean them from the frame?
Do you think all this is just a bad ground or is it a bigger problem?
2007 F-350 Outlaw CCSB 5" Diamond Eye Straight, Edge Insight CTS W/ EGT Probe, TS Performance Chip, SCT Looney Wild PCS From Quick tricks, Warren 190/75's, Swamps 58V FICM W/ Atlas 40 W/ Cold Start, Blue Spring Upgrade, STC Fitting, EGR Delete, Stand Pipes, Dummy Plugs, ARP Head Stubs, GlowShift Fuel Pressure Gauge.
New Batteries (still test at 1000CCA)
New Alternator (new 11/4/14)
My edge monitor (while running) says
0.0 volts on batteries
0.0 volts in FICM
It has new 58V Swamps FICM Atlas 40 w cold start and made sure all the plugs are plugged in.
Truck will not charge over 11.5V and alternator only is putting out 11.9V at positive output stud while running.
Guy at parts store said these trucks are bad for having the battery cables go bad, saying the corrosion climbs up the battery cable under the insulation. I did have some corrosion on the positive cables when I replaced the batteries in February but I cleaned them and sprayed the terminals with the cleaner and sealer to prevent corrosion. But if it climbed up the positive leads there is no way I know how to clean it. The alternator passed all tests at the store. It is only putting out 11.9V while running because they said it is all the computer is requesting from the alternator. The truck is running while the gauge says 0.0V so I know its getting power or the truck would not run the FICM to run the truck. The battery light is staying on, on the dash.
Has anyone changed out the battery cables, positive or negative, and how hard is it and what are the part numbers. I don't really have time to do it myself but dealer probably charges way too much to do it, to undo all the wire looms and replace seems pretty overwhelming to me.
Do I just disconnect the grounds and clean them from the frame?
Do you think all this is just a bad ground or is it a bigger problem?
2007 F-350 Outlaw CCSB 5" Diamond Eye Straight, Edge Insight CTS W/ EGT Probe, TS Performance Chip, SCT Looney Wild PCS From Quick tricks, Warren 190/75's, Swamps 58V FICM W/ Atlas 40 W/ Cold Start, Blue Spring Upgrade, STC Fitting, EGR Delete, Stand Pipes, Dummy Plugs, ARP Head Stubs, GlowShift Fuel Pressure Gauge.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
I am having a problem with the charging system.
New Batteries
New Alternator
My edge monitor (while running) says
0.0 volts on batteries
0.0 volts in FICM
It has new 58V Swamps FICM Atlas 40 w cold start and made sure all the plugs are plugged in.
Truck will not charge over 11.5V and alternator only is putting out 11.9V at positive output stud while running.
Guy at parts store said these trucks are bad for having the battery cables go bad, saying the corrosion climbs up the battery cable under the insulation. I did have some corrosion on the positive cables when I replaced the batteries in February but I cleaned them and sprayed the terminals with the cleaner and sealer to prevent corrosion. But if it climbed up the positive leads there is no way I know how to clean it. The alternator passed all tests at the store. It is only putting out 11.9V while running because they said it is all the computer is requesting from the alternator. The truck is running while the gauge says 0.0V so I know its getting power or the truck would not run the FICM to run the truck. The battery light is staying on, on the dash.
Has anyone changed out the battery cables, positive or negative, and how hard is it and what are the part numbers. I don't really have time to do it myself but dealer probably charges way too much to do it, to undo all the wire looms and replace seems pretty overwhelming to me.
Do I just disconnect the grounds and clean them from the frame?
Do you think all this is just a bad ground or is it a bigger problem?
New Batteries
New Alternator
My edge monitor (while running) says
0.0 volts on batteries
0.0 volts in FICM
It has new 58V Swamps FICM Atlas 40 w cold start and made sure all the plugs are plugged in.
Truck will not charge over 11.5V and alternator only is putting out 11.9V at positive output stud while running.
Guy at parts store said these trucks are bad for having the battery cables go bad, saying the corrosion climbs up the battery cable under the insulation. I did have some corrosion on the positive cables when I replaced the batteries in February but I cleaned them and sprayed the terminals with the cleaner and sealer to prevent corrosion. But if it climbed up the positive leads there is no way I know how to clean it. The alternator passed all tests at the store. It is only putting out 11.9V while running because they said it is all the computer is requesting from the alternator. The truck is running while the gauge says 0.0V so I know its getting power or the truck would not run the FICM to run the truck. The battery light is staying on, on the dash.
Has anyone changed out the battery cables, positive or negative, and how hard is it and what are the part numbers. I don't really have time to do it myself but dealer probably charges way too much to do it, to undo all the wire looms and replace seems pretty overwhelming to me.
Do I just disconnect the grounds and clean them from the frame?
Do you think all this is just a bad ground or is it a bigger problem?
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New User
Joined: Nov 2014
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I will have to trace they wires and clean where the connect. The connectors are seated on the alternator. I have checked them twice.
I am going to take some electrical contact cleaner home from work today to spray on the spots that I am going to clean up.
Could the voltage regulator be bad and where is it located if so.
I am going to take some electrical contact cleaner home from work today to spray on the spots that I am going to clean up.
Could the voltage regulator be bad and where is it located if so.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 7
From: South Weber, Utah
I will have to trace they wires and clean where the connect. The connectors are seated on the alternator. I have checked them twice.
I am going to take some electrical contact cleaner home from work today to spray on the spots that I am going to clean up.
Could the voltage regulator be bad and where is it located if so.
I am going to take some electrical contact cleaner home from work today to spray on the spots that I am going to clean up.
Could the voltage regulator be bad and where is it located if so.
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New User
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Your talking about the plug on the alternator?
And yellow pin will carry same voltage as batteries. ..correct?
Alternator was bench tested at parts store. Wouldn't it show then if pin 1 wasn't energizing?
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The Yellow A Circuit Pin 3 will always show whatever the batteries see and this is the circuit the regulator uses to boost or lower the output.
The I Circuit Pin 1 is the excite circuit and commands the alternator on. No voltage on that circuit and the alternator will not begin charging.
Josh
The I Circuit Pin 1 is the excite circuit and commands the alternator on. No voltage on that circuit and the alternator will not begin charging.
Josh
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Spanaway
If the alternator is on a bench test unit how will it show
what the batteries in the truck are dong? You need to
do this test on the truck.
Something else to look at is called a voltage drop test.
This needs to be done to each cable.
Here is a Youtube HOW TO
Sean
what the batteries in the truck are dong? You need to
do this test on the truck.
Something else to look at is called a voltage drop test.
This needs to be done to each cable.
Here is a Youtube HOW TO
Sean
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Not familiar with Diesels but the main ground point, just like gassers is somewhere on the block? The problem with "contact cleaners" today is they have mostly been defanged and don't do *****, except lighten your wallet. They won't remove rust or corrosion, either. The connection on my Ranger looked like a chemistry experiment. What you want to do is get a file or wheel on the mounting pad and down to bright shiny metal, and do the same for the cable connection itself. It pays to do this for all equipment. Then apply a good electrical grease like NO-OX. With all that said it sounds like something ain't charging, those voltage numbers are way too low, esp. for cold weather. I would also keep an outboard charger on the battery system to keep them healthy till it gets sorted out.
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Ok so update and now I'm really stumped.
I put new positive battery cable on, factory replacement, still trouble.
New batteries in march
new alternator in November
new positive battery cable yesterday.
Removed all grounds on frame and cleaned and wire brushed frame.
new starter because I broke positive stud off installing new battery cable.
The truck once I charge it will start. Then carry like 13.6 volts. After idling for a while the engine makes a load change sound then the voltage starts dropping fast. Like a volt every minute or two I keep it running. If after that I shut the truck off and try to restart it. It will not have enough volts to start it.
I'm lost and need help.
I put new positive battery cable on, factory replacement, still trouble.
New batteries in march
new alternator in November
new positive battery cable yesterday.
Removed all grounds on frame and cleaned and wire brushed frame.
new starter because I broke positive stud off installing new battery cable.
The truck once I charge it will start. Then carry like 13.6 volts. After idling for a while the engine makes a load change sound then the voltage starts dropping fast. Like a volt every minute or two I keep it running. If after that I shut the truck off and try to restart it. It will not have enough volts to start it.
I'm lost and need help.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2014
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Yes at the post after its been running a little while.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,472
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From: Southern Cal
Ok so update and now I'm really stumped.
I put new positive battery cable on, factory replacement, still trouble.
New batteries in march
new alternator in November
new positive battery cable yesterday.
Removed all grounds on frame and cleaned and wire brushed frame.
new starter because I broke positive stud off installing new battery cable.
The truck once I charge it will start. Then carry like 13.6 volts. After idling for a while the engine makes a load change sound then the voltage starts dropping fast. Like a volt every minute or two I keep it running. If after that I shut the truck off and try to restart it. It will not have enough volts to start it.
I'm lost and need help.
I put new positive battery cable on, factory replacement, still trouble.
New batteries in march
new alternator in November
new positive battery cable yesterday.
Removed all grounds on frame and cleaned and wire brushed frame.
new starter because I broke positive stud off installing new battery cable.
The truck once I charge it will start. Then carry like 13.6 volts. After idling for a while the engine makes a load change sound then the voltage starts dropping fast. Like a volt every minute or two I keep it running. If after that I shut the truck off and try to restart it. It will not have enough volts to start it.
I'm lost and need help.
I've had alternators work for the first few minutes and foul my testing processes up, only to stop working as they warm up. Now your system is drawing only off the batteries and it doesn't take long to drain them where they keep the engine running, let alone, re-start the vehicle.
I'd try another alternator myself before anything else.
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