Got it all done today.


Fuel filter on the frame was really dirty. The drain plug had some rust on it. Glad I got it done.


I replaced the tall napa oil filter cap with a ford, it was pretty dirty (probably normal). But I forgot that the high pressure pump holds some oil and I overfilled it so I had to let some out twice through the drain plug to get it below the max level. I used Rotella T6, I hope I don't have a problem with foaming?


The tranny pan was extremely clean. I small amount of metal on the magnet. I put 9 quarts back in and replaced both filters. The level seems slightly low but still within the limits when warm. I will check it a few times again in the next few days.


My power steering fluid was a little low. Had to go buy some Mercon V for that. I may look into a fluid change for that.


A couple of by battery terminals were slightly loose and had a little corrosion on them. I cleaned them up, tighten them and sprayed some battery spray on them so maybe that will help the low voltage a little. I checked the battery voltage this morning before starting and it was 12.2 on the posts. Later in the day in the garage they were 12.6, so that seems fine but I will keep monitoring them. I don't want my FICM voltage to suffer.


I received my coolant filter in the mail today so I will install it soon. Do you think it should be up and running before a coolant flush or at the same time? I bought 4 filters for it as well, so I could start filtering some of it now.

 

If you don't mind - recheck the FICM voltages (KOEO, cranking, and at 2000 rpms). I believe it would be helpful to see how much difference the 2V of system voltage helped the FICM voltage. Thanks.

 

Checked this morning with temp at 18 degrees. Put a meter on the battery and read 12.4 volts. Then turned key on to get torque pro to start and read 10.5 with glow plugs on. FICM got as low as 45.5 while cranking then climbed to 48. It was 48.5 to 49 while driving.

 

Oh, the highest my ECT gets is about 180 but usually runs around 174 while driving 55mph and 18 degrees. EOT runs around 180 to 185. Delta is usually 6 but as high as 8 to 10 at times.


I have a 200 degree mishimoto that was delivered today. Hopefully will do a full flush and install by this weekend along with coolant filter.

 

Thanks for re-checking and posting - seems that it did come up some. The 10.5v is a little better.

Personally, I would hate to see my FICM that low, but it is at least above the 45V minimum that FICMrepair.com (and Ford) specifies. I asked him if a voltage slightly above 45 when cranking is indicative of a FICM that is getting weak (primarily for my education), but have not heard back from him.

Sounds like your temperature differential is good and the new thermostat should get you where you want to be there!

 

I agree with Mark on that FICM. But it's giving you time to save up
for a repair Vs being in need now.

On the batteries you might want to get a hydrometer and check the cells.
I would also if you have not already clean the batteries with a battery cleaning
and neutralizing spray. Then dry them off and if you want you can spray a sealer
on the posts to help keep them clean. Also after you check the cells you want to
check the water level in them. ONLY USED DISTILLED WATER to top them off. The
crap in tap water will degrade them faster over time.


Sean

 

The short answer is that the FICM is getting weak and that FICM's are ridiculously sensitive to inadequate supply side voltage issues and, for that matter, less than 'smooth' current (which is why bad voltage regulators, for example, kill FICM's too).

A FICM seeing less than 11.5 KOEO may fail the '45V' test when a module seeing more wouldn't. Essentially, low supply side voltage is really, really hard on modules.

Re: Ford's TSB. I'd say that dips to 9 point anything during cranking aren't awesome. Ideally, folks would stay above 11, but that is hard to do especially in the colder months.

I've always wondered if the basis for the 10.25V for 60 seconds allowance was put into place as Ford realized that their alternators were undersized and they weighed the benefits and drawbacks of upping the alternators vs additional FICM claims.

Hope this helps!

 

Many thanks Ed.

 

Went to the dealer (Quicklane)today to have the batteries checked and install 2 new motorcraft max batteries. The tech tested them individual and came back to say they were fine. I told him about them dropping to about 10.5 volts when cold outside and I am concerned about my FICM. He said he would bring out the other machine and test them with that as well. He came back and said they are fine. I asked him on a scale within spec, were they on the lower side, middle, or upper range of the spectrum. He said actually on the upper side. He said the batteries are "golden". They are NAPA Legend dated October 2013 with 875cca and 1035ca.


So I am going to keep a close eye on them. I may end up sending my FICM to ficmrepair.com to get updated and add the atlas 40, but I would hate to realized that it doesn't change anything and I have some other problem. After tightening the terminals and spraying battery terminal protectant on them, it has only went down to 11 at worst and that was 15 degrees outside.


Any thoughts?

 

I am planning on flushing my coolant system this weekend. I have 4 gallons of Ford gold coolant, a mishimoto thermostat, and a sinister coolant filter. I will buy a bunch of distilled water too. My delta is running 6 to 8, so no plans on replacing the oil cooler as of yet (I haven't towed yet so that may change when we get our new camper), so I don't want to flush a bunch of trash into the cooler and make it worse.


I was planning on dropping the radiator hoses, flushing with water hose through them, dropping at least the driver side plug, taking out the thermostat while doing all of this, and run it and flush it until it seems clean. Then install new thermostat, and run distilled water through a time or two until adding the coolant and being done. Should I use some kind of flush chemical or just water? Is there any problems with driving with just water since it is only getting to about 55 this weekend? Thoughts?

 

If all you have is 50/50 coolant (my assumption since it is 4 gallons), then there is no way you will wind up w/ a 50/50 mix after flushing.

 

I bought concentrated coolant, that is why I bought 4 gallons.

 

Don't know what I was thinking on that one - my apologies! 28 qt system -

 

No problems, haha. I just realized it is hard to inject a little sarcastic humor in type and realized I sounded only like a smart a$$! That is not what I meant. lol.


I have actually never bought the 50/50 mix because it is almost as much money as the concentrated. I am going to try to get it very close to 50/50 mix. On gas engines I do it more like 60/40 to 70/30 and have never had any problems.


I just don't want to knock a bunch of stuff loose to clog up the oil cooler. I wish there was something that we could run in the system all the time that would slowly break the gel stuff loose and let the coolant filter trap it over time, then it could actually un-clog the cooler over time.

 

I found my heater control valve leaking so I am getting one from Advance this afternoon (the dealer doesn't have one). I noticed the bottom of my degas tank a little wet around the bottom hose, so I took it off to inspect and there are several cracks all over the degas tank. They are mostly in corners and bends. I ran a pressure test when test driving and only got to 11.5 psi at the worst so I am wondering how these cracks happened?


Napa has a degas tank in stock. Would there be a problem with it instead of the dealer? Thanks