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Do I really need to have my FICM repaired? It seems to be doing a great job, just cant make 48 volts from 10. I think the batteries should not go below 12 even when cold. It cranks perfectly and starts right up. If I wasn't watching with torque pro, I would not think there was a problem at all.
I would get my battery voltage where it needs to be long before I replaced or repaired a Ficm. Without correct. Voltage you cannot test things properly. That said when the glow plugs start up and you are cranking cold I is not unheard of for battery voltage to dip I to the mid 11's. 10 is a little low. Did you only take a short trip last time out? It can take 20 min or more at rpm for the batteries to recoup from starting. And the stock alternators are just about at there limits. If you are doing multiple short trips I will take a toll in a hurry. Make sure all your battery connections are clean and in good shape as well as all grounds. When I bought my truck the cable from positive to positive across the batteries looked ok until I u hooked it. It was cracked all across the bottom and barely making contact. Once fixed my voltage problems went away.
Due to the glow plugs, it is not uncommon to be in the 11v range (or high 10's) when cranking - preferably around 11, but you may have weak batteries. Even so, the FICM should not drop to 45V.
Edit - I was slower than you 05F250DSL.
I agree - resolve the battery issue first but I doubt that it will resolve the low FICM volts.
Since I don't know when mine has been serviced, should I drop the pan? The fluid looks great and does not smell burnt whatsoever.
I would drop the pan and clean it, then you KNOW it's condition.
Originally Posted by 92will
Do I really need to have my FICM repaired? It seems to be doing a great job, just cant make 48 volts from 10. I think the batteries should not go below 12 even when cold. It cranks perfectly and starts right up. If I wasn't watching with torque pro, I would not think there was a problem at all.
The 10 volts this morning was with the key on, after the glow plug light went off, and before cranking. I drive about 25 minutes back and forth to work about 16 miles. Speeds up to 65 mph. With the torque pro, I cant check the voltage with first turning the key on which cycles the glow plugs.
Does the check that Advance Auto does good enough for checking the batteries and charging system?
The 10 volts this morning was with the key on, after the glow plug light went off, and before cranking.
The glow plugs are actually still on 1 - 2 minutes after the light goes off the dash. (depends on temp) The dash light just tells you it is ok to start
I think the Scanguage has an Xgauge where it will show the total on time
for the glow plugs.
On the transmission pan I was under the impression that the
pan gasket was reusable type. So if you do drop the pan
to clean it there is not any added cost. But like everyone has
said the filter is more a screen and only needs to
be replaced at rebuilding time.
Take the batteries and charge then separately. Test with a
hydrometer at about 70º to get the right readings. Let them
sit fior a little bit and retest to see if they are holding or not.
While you have then out clean with a battery cleaner/neutralizer.
Just don't get it into the cells. I would also find a shop that has
one of the old carbon pile charging testers and have then see
how the system is doing for output after you have it warmed up.
Since I don't know when mine has been serviced, should I drop the pan? The fluid looks great and does not smell burnt whatsoever.
You already know my answer. I was in the same boat as you. I dropped mine right after I bought it because I didn't know and the truck had 215 k miles on it. It's a $3k risks, so I wanted to be sure.
The gasket it reusable, but again, mind had 215 kmiles on it. I changed filter and gasket because it was high mileage already. I wasn't about to drain and fill not knowing if the pan had gunk in it. It might have failed, but it wasn't going to fail because I was lazy.
As other have said, make sure the batteries are good first and glow plugs can stay on a couple minutes after the light goes out. I think your ficm is fine.
About how much money is the internal filter and gasket? I may just buy them both tomorrow from the dealer anyway. I guess I am going to buy 18 quarts so I can do up to 9 this time and up to 9 after 500 miles. In the meantime I will find another external filter online for a better price (along with oil and fuel filters as well).
Ok, so my dealer only 2 quarts of SP tranny fluid. A tech came out from the shop and said the LV was just fine for my 2006 5 speed torque shift. So I get home and start googling? and see some problems with LV in the 6.0 transmissions. I bought 18 quarts but have not done anything yet.
LV is fine in the 6.0L. It has been a heavily discussed question on the forums and it always ends with Ford techs (and perhaps an ex Ford Transmission engineer) confirming that LV is fine and it mixes perfectly with SP.
If you are dead-set on SP, OReilly's sells it, but not at all stores - and it is a little more expensive there. You can order it online from AutoNation White Bear Lake for a good price and DieselFiltersOnLine sells it for a good price.
Ok, so my dealer only 2 quarts of SP tranny fluid. A tech came out from the shop and said the LV was just fine for my 2006 5 speed torque shift. So I get home and start googling? and see some problems with LV in the 6.0 transmissions. I bought 18 quarts but have not done anything yet.
Any thoughts?
I put LV in mine and have never heard of problems with LV in the torqueshift. I've always thought LV was an improved version of SP, but that's probably not accurate.
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