Ok so here's the deal I bought this 99.5 f350 7.3 awhile back it drove so so when I bought it&the next day loss of power white smoke.Did tank mods no fuel pump new cps no luck.Took it to the shop&they said uvch was almost unplugged & when they tryd to plug back in the connector broke.They said that injectors1,3&7 were bad as well as a glow plug on each side.So I replaced each uvch all the glow plugs. But left the injectors alone seeings I thought maybe it wae just the uvchs.
Well put it all back together&cant get her to fire she crank&cranks&@times almost sounds like its turning over but no fire. I Got it to start once or twice for just a second & would die.While cranking there was white smoke but when started for a sec black smoke. The most I was able to have it run was for half a minute with the key steady cranking.
What I don't get is with this problem before it would atleast start.Now it won't. Any ideas?

 

OK... let's start with making sure the UVCHs are not a problem. Dorman UVCHs or Motorcraft? Did you inspect the pins on the valve cover gaskets? They sometimes burn when the UVCH works loose. Click the UVCH link in my signature and the procedure there will help find any injector wiring issues on top of the motor.

It's possible your problem is oil related (Injector Control Pressure). There are many situations where the problem is allegedly injectors, but it's injector O-rings and/or UVCHs. You can try unplugging the ICP sensor and see if the truck will start. This will set the SES light off and a code to discover later, but it's a procedure right out of the Ford manual.

 

There dorman.Is that bad?

 

If the dorman are a bad choice. I don't wanna just throw parts blindly @it as I just bought these uvch &Im stuck with a box of obs one's they sent me moneys tight.I do bodywork for a living&not making this up last week a cherry picker broke while I was guiding a motor in&lost 2 fingers so im not working. So Id rather rule it out than buy more parts.Getting stir crazy 1st motor blew up on car next day trans went out on truck sold both bought this &this happened &I know nobody here really so were stuck on the ponderosa.driveways a mile long.If I ddon't get this going were gonna be stuck all winter. The shop did say the injectors were bad.btw while trying 2 start truck shoke violently

 

Violent shake sounds like either the UVCH isn't up to the task, the valve cover gasket is bad, you really had multiple injectors fail simultaneously (bad fuel can cause this), you're low on fuel or oil, the glow plugs didn't have enough time to warm up, or you have a bad glow plug relay.


That UVCH link in my signature is a free and easy test to make sure your wiring to the injectors is all good, it's really worth clicking. The Glow Plug Relay can be tested by putting a volt meter across your batteries and turn the key (don't crank the engine) - remember that voltage. Key off and meter across both big lugs on the GPR (closest to the turbo - the short one). Sitting - 0 volts. Turn the key - close to the same voltage as your last test. Plug in your engine heater for 2 or 3 hours before trying to start. There are many links in my signature that can help you, click around and see for yourself (most technical ones are at the end). The first one may be the heavy-hitter, though - the BEST map.


I'm sorry to hear about your s**tstorm... we all have had some form of that, and we're rootin' for you. The brotherhood will step up and help you as we can.

 

I just checked... you're in Montana. The BEST map has a big void there, but I know some members hail from Big Sky country. What's the nearest town?

 

Before you spend any more money on anything, check the underside of the wiring harness going to the 42 pin connector for chafing where it crosses over the left valve cover, if you haven't already done that.

 

I'm in Glendive MT and willing to help, but I think he is actually in Missouri. I'm willing to travel up to 250 miles to help where I can.

 

Yuh know... anybody could mistake an O for a T. They look so much alike.


Maybe if I read fewer posts, I wouldn't feel the urge to speed-read.

 

so had anohter guy look@it&it passed the buzz test.But he couldn't do the contribution test becauae we couldn't get it running.Now he says its dumping raw fuel &oil pressure is good&fuel pressure is good.
I Know before I was told #1#3&7 injectors were bad when it was in the shop.So he says I should pull all 8&drive into the city &have them tested.So Im confused on if I should just go get 3 remans or pull em all. To have em checked...Or I found a fella says he has 3 good injectors for 140 takes all 3.Im running out of money here & only have a couple of weeks before snows here &IM Screwed

 

Taking the three is a gamble, having 8 checked is a sure thing (if the nearby city has a shop with the equipment to test injectors). The cold makes old injectors "cranky", so you don't yet know if the winter will reveal a few more bad injectors.

Here is how we pacify cranky injectors in the winter:

• Synthetic oil (CJ4 5w40)
• Long glow plug times
• Plug in the engine heater

 

Well shouldn't it fire on the other 5 injectors? Anyways I talked to the 1st shop & they told me 1,3&7 did fail the contribution test.I know where 3 supposedly good ones are.Really wanna try em but afraid of waiting miney6

 

All on the same side, I'd check the wiring.

 

well what else should I check with the wiring I put a new Uvch in & the wirIng harness that plugs into all look nice and shiny what should I do to test it I don't want to thRow more parts at it.

 

What about the IDM?