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Long block questions for a first time engine builder
Hey gang, thinking that my winter project will be to build an engine. I've never built one and want to go through the process.
I currently have a 300/435 on 78 F150 4x4. It has a few mods including an Offy C intake, 2100 carb, efi exhaust manifolds. It runs well but it is starting to show its age. I would only build this new engine to have a fresh replacement so to speak.
I started looking around for a donor, but having never rebuilt an engine I'm not confident in what to look for and what to avoid. I'm hoping for some help and guidance.
Here is a long block that is available near me from an individual. Going to check it out this weekend. $200. New pistons, rings, bearings, front and rear seals. Not sure if it has a cam installed. Don't have any more info.
It appears to be an EFI block because there is no slot for a mechanical fuel pump. My understanding is that I can drill that out rather than convert to an electric fuel pump. Is that correct? And what else should I be looking for and what questions should I ask when I'm looking at it?
Appreciate any insight and advice you can share. Thanks.
Get in touch with ctubutis [Moderator]. He lives in your area. His truck has a V8, but I am certain he can connect you with someone nearby who can assist you!
P.M. him, since he is usually in the 1980-1986 forum.
Jump on it! Even without a cam it is worth it. And if those new pistons are hypereutectic that is a plus. Good luck. With your other engine goodies and maybe an RV cam it will be a strong runner.
Thanks Gang! I'll try and close the deal tomorrow and be back with photos and LOTS of questions.
FTF, I'll check out the inline forum and start reading up. Really appreciate the community and support. Makes a newb feel like he can maybe just pull it off.
I agree, the one for $200 is probably worth it just in "new" parts but lots of questions...
Was any machine work done? Who did it, and what was done? Does he have receipts? Was everything measured with a micrometer and checked out and assembled per spec?
Or, did he merely assemble it with new parts he bought from someplace?
It kinda concerns me the block is just sitting there out in the open like that but that may be for picture purposes; normally, it would be sealed up in a plastic garbage bag or some such to keep dust & debris out of it.
In any event, it all depends on your goals, skill level and abilities.
The best machinist/engine builder I know is a guy named Rob Mc Quarie, he runs a shop he calls Blue Oval Performance Engineering located near Santa Fe Dr. & Hampden Ave. (303) 762-8298
I agree, the one for $200 is probably worth it just in "new" parts but lots of questions...
Was any machine work done? Who did it, and what was done? Does he have receipts? Was everything measured with a micrometer and checked out and assembled per spec?
Or, did he merely assemble it with new parts he bought from someplace?
It kinda concerns me the block is just sitting there out in the open like that but that may be for picture purposes; normally, it would be sealed up in a plastic garbage bag or some such to keep dust & debris out of it.
In any event, it all depends on your goals, skill level and abilities.
The best machinist/engine builder I know is a guy named Rob Mc Quarie, he runs a shop he calls Blue Oval Performance Engineering located near Santa Fe Dr. & Hampden Ave. (303) 762-8298
Thanks ctubutis. I appreciate the machinist referral and thoughts on what questions to begin with.
I'm guessing that even if the seller can produce receipts for the work, I will want to pull it apart and start over to make certain it is done right.
Thanks again for everyone's input. I'll have a look at it tomorrow and hopefully its a good one.
Just a quick update. I met the seller on Sunday and when I arrived he did not have the Longblock. Said he forgot it was not in his garage but stored at his buddies. Weird and disappointing. I'm going to take it as a sign from the in-line six gods that was not the block to build.
I'll keep looking for a donor. In the meantime I am considering pulling my engine and just rebuilding it.
It has a pretty noticeable tick at Idle that goes away as the RPMs climb. That's why I decided this winter would be a good time to build. I'll try and post a video later, maybe you guys have some ideas on what ails my current engine.
Well, I have been unsuccessful in finding a donor block and I'm warming to the idea of just pulling my engine and rebuilding it. I mentioned in a previous post it's got a rather loud knock/tick at idle. It goes away as the rpms climb. I've tried to isolate it top or bottom and it echoes through the whole darn engine. Hopefully tomorrow I'm going to put a vacuum gauge on it and see what it pulls.
I went ahead and did a compression test and here are the numbers dry
1 - 89
2 - 105
3 - 86
4 - 115
5 - 111
6 - 90
and then wet
1 - 110
2 - 115
3 - 110
4 - 115
5 - 115
6 - 106
I don't know much but that can't be good. I welcome any thoughts on the numbers.
I removed the valve cover and here is a look at it. Pretty darn dirty in there.
Any thoughts or suggestions before I make a plan to pull it? Thanks FTE
Yep. I just stared at him for a minute. It's not like I just dropped by. we had agreed on a time and place to meet and he knew I drove an hour to look at it. I had to laugh or I was going to lose it.
Well I put a vacuum gauge on it this afternoon and here's what I found.
At Start Up 9-10Hg
At idle and normal operating temperature, 12Hg.
If I rev the engine it drops to 8, it will then climb up to 14 as I let off the throttle and then settle back at 12 at idle. I'm going to search the forum but I recall reading somewhere that a healthy engine should be pulling somewhere around 20Hg at idle. Does that sound correct?
If so, I think the evidence is mounting that I need to pull this tired girl and build her back to new.
You're in Denver, so subtract about 1 in. per 1000 feet above sea level. Is Denver at 5K? Slightly low, maybe, but once you get it tuned up you may see see an improvement. Good to see steady. If the ignition timing is retarded engine vacuum will be a bit lower as well. That may well be good numbers, basically. It's also important to see roughly equal compression figures.
Compression testing has some quirks to be useful. Was the engine "highway run" warm, all spark plugs removed, throttle blocked wide open, full charge on battery, etc?
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