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You'll need to install a socket to connect to and turn the oil pump driveshaft but I forget the size... IIRC there were two sizes used... 5/16 sounds familiar but I'm not at all certain... I've only done it on V8s... google around and you might be able to find it...
So I have the engine all back together and primed it to start with a 5/16 hex head and extension. Thanks to Ctubutis for pointing me in the right direction.
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Thanks to the kind and good members of this forum and a bunch of elbow grease I've got old red back running solid. The exhaust leak that started this whole process is gone and a whole bunch more has been done including:
New main bearings (except for main rear as the work was done in the truck)
New piston heads, rings and rod bearings
Valve job
Rebuilt 2100 carburetor
Manifold studs
New battery
New starter solenoid (disappointed I had to replace it. Darn thing only lasted 37 years )
Stumble at acceleration is gone and oil pressure is so much better. My wife says it sounds so good she wants to drive it. Uh oh.
I need to fine tune the carb and timing. I timed it for the first time using my vacuum gauge but I don't think I have curb idle rpm set where it needs to be. I need to bite the bullet and get a tach. Also, it is a bit hard to start so I think I either I'm a little lean or the timing is off just a bit.
All things considered I am very pleased. I couldn't have done it without the kind help and expertise from this site. Special thanks to Frenchtownflyer, Trozei and Ctubutis for walking me through so many steps. You guys are legend.
Here are a couple of pics. First is the lower mains when I pulled them. 2nd pic is my efi manifolds cleaned up and new manifold studs making life easier.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.