Long block questions for a first time engine builder
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: Denver, Co
Thanks Tedster. You're right, Denver is at 5k feet. As I now understand it I need to subtract an inch for every 1k feet. I found the stickies thread on tuning with vacuum. I hope to try and do that tomorrow.
As for the compression test, it was definitely warmed up and at operating temperature for over an hour. I removed all of the plugs and had the manual choke wide open. I did not block open the throttle body. Do you think it would be a good idea to go back and repeat the test with the throttle held open?
The knock/tick has my attention the most. And I'm frustrated I can't seem to isolate it. I'll try and post a video of it later. Maybe someone else has experience with the same sound and can help.
Thanks again.
As for the compression test, it was definitely warmed up and at operating temperature for over an hour. I removed all of the plugs and had the manual choke wide open. I did not block open the throttle body. Do you think it would be a good idea to go back and repeat the test with the throttle held open?
The knock/tick has my attention the most. And I'm frustrated I can't seem to isolate it. I'll try and post a video of it later. Maybe someone else has experience with the same sound and can help.
Thanks again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
One thing for actual engine fault diagnosis and tuning the large face type gauge made for the purpose is best, because the needle is more responsive and precise.
Here's a good link for just some of the diagnostics these useful tools are capable:
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...auge-chart.jpg
Here's a good link for just some of the diagnostics these useful tools are capable:
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...auge-chart.jpg
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: Denver, Co
One thing for actual engine fault diagnosis and tuning the large face type gauge made for the purpose is best, because the needle is more responsive and precise.
Here's a good link for just some of the diagnostics these useful tools are capable:
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...auge-chart.jpg
Here's a good link for just some of the diagnostics these useful tools are capable:
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...auge-chart.jpg
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: Denver, Co
Posting a link (not sure how to imbed the video directly in the post) to a short video with the sound of the tick/knock that I'm having a hard time isolating top or bottom. I feel strongly its coming from the front half of the engine but it echoes through the engine that when I place a mechanics scope on it I still can't isolate it. Probably due to my lack of experience and knowing what to listen and look for.
Im hoping someone else might recognize it and have some ideas. It is present at idle but as RPMS climb it goes away. If you click on the picture it should take you to the video.
Thanks for looking and listening.
Im hoping someone else might recognize it and have some ideas. It is present at idle but as RPMS climb it goes away. If you click on the picture it should take you to the video.
Thanks for looking and listening.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 8
From: Langley, BC
Yes, that is highly likely to be an exhaust leak. First place to check is at the head. If you're positive you properly installed the manifold, rule that out for now. Have you tried re-torquing the bolts?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,603
Likes: 10
From: Spokane, WA
It could be the donut gasket between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe...not as bad as a leaky manifold gasket. It can be caused by pressure in the exhaust system stemming from some sort of blockage. A plugged, worn-out Cat convertor can do it.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: Denver, Co
Thanks Trozei and Harte3. It's well past dark here so I'm going to leave it for the night to avoid getting a y-pipe tattoo.
The PO installed the manifolds (offy intake/EFI exhaust) using a Stage 8 kit. I can't see for certain but it looks like one of the lock rings might be missing. I'll need daylight and a cool exhaust to confirm. I will do flips if that is the case.
After studying it a bit the stage 8 setup just looks suspect with how it sits on the intake and exhaust flanges. Anyone else have a negative or positive experience with this setup? Maybe I should consider swapping to studs or a standard bolt and washer setup?
The PO installed the manifolds (offy intake/EFI exhaust) using a Stage 8 kit. I can't see for certain but it looks like one of the lock rings might be missing. I'll need daylight and a cool exhaust to confirm. I will do flips if that is the case.
After studying it a bit the stage 8 setup just looks suspect with how it sits on the intake and exhaust flanges. Anyone else have a negative or positive experience with this setup? Maybe I should consider swapping to studs or a standard bolt and washer setup?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: Denver, Co
http://www.stage8.com/ford.html
That's why I'm thinking about going back to a tried and true stud, washer and nut.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 8
From: Langley, BC
I hear you. It's a brand. They make fasteners that to me appear over complicated.
Ford Locking Header Bolt Kit | Locking Bolts
That's why I'm thinking about going back to a tried and true stud, washer and nut.
Ford Locking Header Bolt Kit | Locking Bolts
That's why I'm thinking about going back to a tried and true stud, washer and nut.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: Denver, Co
Thanks again crew. I found a couple of the manifold bolts on the underside missing the stage 8 lock rings. I'm guessing they were improperly installed and the bolts have backed out a bit.
I can't tell if the gasket has some blow by marks or just discoloration due to the heat.
I decided I'm going to pull the manifolds this weekend and replace the gaskets. Fingers crossed, I hope to report back with good news.
I can't tell if the gasket has some blow by marks or just discoloration due to the heat.
I decided I'm going to pull the manifolds this weekend and replace the gaskets. Fingers crossed, I hope to report back with good news.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: Denver, Co
Need some help from the experts again. I pulled the manifolds tonight and found oil inside the #6 cylinder's intake port on the head. It looks like it has been leaking there awhile based on the buildup just below it on the block. it does not appear to be coming from the valve cover or head gasket.
It was pretty dark so all of the pictures I took did not show much detail. I'll take some in the morning to post.
I am guessing it is due to a bad intake valve seal? If it were the piston rings would it not also be present on the exhaust side? Or is that an incorrect assumption?
Thanks in advance for the advice and ideas.
It was pretty dark so all of the pictures I took did not show much detail. I'll take some in the morning to post.
I am guessing it is due to a bad intake valve seal? If it were the piston rings would it not also be present on the exhaust side? Or is that an incorrect assumption?
Thanks in advance for the advice and ideas.