Stuck Oil Cooler
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Senior User
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From: McFarland, WI
Stuck Oil Cooler
So I got a some oil in my coolant. Head gaskets are good so I figured it was the oil cooler. I pulled the oil cooler and the HPOP screen was almost completely covered in greenish rubber. OK an o-ring blew. Actually the oring on the bottom of the housing is completely shredded. Not the outer ring, just the internal parts that keep the coolant and oil separated. Not sure why it looks like a dog was chewing on it from the inside. So i get the cooler, with housing attached, to the work bench. I set up two blocks of wood and grab a socket to pound out the cooler. Yes I did remove the two nuts on top and two bolts on the bottom. It won't budge. I smacked the **** out of it. I tried it on the concrete. I tried bigger hammers. i tried swearing at it. i tried to drink beer to make it seem like it was moving. Nothing worked. So i have a new upgraded cooler on the way but i can't get the old one out. Any advice?
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From: Spanaway
Recheck that you do in fact have all the nuts and bolts out.
Then watch SrMasterTech
About 2:00 into this video.
Sean
EDIT : BTW the green gasket that shreaded is do to Dorman and there crap gasket.
Then watch SrMasterTech
About 2:00 into this video.
Sean
EDIT : BTW the green gasket that shreaded is do to Dorman and there crap gasket.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Sounds like a Dorman kit was installed and bit you with the disintegrated gasket. If the gasket melted, it could be bonding the two together. I'll assume you have all the bolts and screws out. It really would take someone real dense to leave some one and try and remove the cooler.
Maybe a little heat will work. Got a heat gun? torch? If it is glued together with the melted gaskets/O-rings, it will take some heat and/or evenly applied pressure to pry the "glue" off. See if you can heat it then carefully press it off with some weight. Stand on it for a few minutes after you have it to 200 to 300 degrees.
Maybe a little heat will work. Got a heat gun? torch? If it is glued together with the melted gaskets/O-rings, it will take some heat and/or evenly applied pressure to pry the "glue" off. See if you can heat it then carefully press it off with some weight. Stand on it for a few minutes after you have it to 200 to 300 degrees.
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As you can see from the video you need to block up the cover leaveing enough room for the cooler to actually clear and come out of the cover. If it is just laying flat on the floor your just beating against the floor.
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From: McFarland, WI
Ill try the heating tomorrow. I rechecked and I have everything unbolted. The "melting" of the orings makes sense. I had it blocked up on 2x6s and the cooler was off the ground. This is the second cooler I have done and I did everything the same. Other than this cooler was probably made in china by a blind monkey being led by a deaf goat in a sweatshop specializing in knitting sweaters......Dorman's Sweaters....I mean Dorman Autoparts. Time to put some 'MERICAN parts in
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From: Spanaway
Ill try the heating tomorrow. I rechecked and I have everything unbolted. The "melting" of the orings makes sense. I had it blocked up on 2x6s and the cooler was off the ground. This is the second cooler I have done and I did everything the same. Other than this cooler was probably made in china by a blind monkey being led by a deaf goat in a sweatshop specializing in knitting sweaters......Dorman's Sweaters....I mean Dorman Autoparts. Time to put some 'MERICAN parts in
by the chicken. And that the reason that the gaskets are green is
it is really just egg leftovers they let dry in the sun.
Sean
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Senior User
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From: McFarland, WI
Well I got it out. I heated the cooler from the top with a propane torch and contented to beat on it. Thanks for the help. Now I have to wait for the new one to come in.
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From: Spanaway
How hot did you get the part?
I am not sure at what point you might need/want to anneal/normalize
it so that there is not any stress concentration. Metallurgy was not
something I got too deep into.
May not even be necessary.
But better to know that it's not.
Sean
I am not sure at what point you might need/want to anneal/normalize
it so that there is not any stress concentration. Metallurgy was not
something I got too deep into.
May not even be necessary.
But better to know that it's not.
Sean
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Well that was anticlimactic. Do tell. What was making it sgii stubborn? Melted orings? Superglue? A Duramax gremlin?
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From: McFarland, WI
I didn't throw mud heat on it. I held the torch on the inside of the oil cooler "tubes" for about 30 seconds each and then smoked it with a hammer. It moved right away. Gave it a minute and repeated. I was expecting to see o ring residue or something. Ususally when something like this happens, I'm able to say, "look honey this is why." She likes to have reasons why I spend so much time in the garage. Now she just thinks I'm weak.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 114
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
I didn't throw mud heat on it. I held the torch on the inside of the oil cooler "tubes" for about 30 seconds each and then smoked it with a hammer. It moved right away. Gave it a minute and repeated. I was expecting to see o ring residue or something. Ususally when something like this happens, I'm able to say, "look honey this is why." She likes to have reasons why I spend so much time in the garage. Now she just thinks I'm weak.
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