Little Oil Cooler write up!!!
#1
12-06-2009, 10:08 PM
Little Oil Cooler write up!!!
hey guys my oil cooler had been leaking for a long time out of the end caps and then yesterday i started the truck and it just started gushing oil out as soon as it fired. so i had to change it. i know there have been guys on here that wanted to know how to do this and i haven't seen a write up for it yet so i will do a small write up of what i can remember on this. enjoy!
I want to start this off by thanking Cody for the oil cooler. Cody lent me an oil cooler so i could put new o-rings in it and just swap them out. I will give you my old one and some gaskets i have, but we need to figure one thing out on my oil cooler when i bring it.
Ok to start things off I drained both my oil and coolant b/c both needed to be changed anyways(i don't see any reason why you would have to totally drain them both).
Drain the water out of the block by taking out the block heater element(this is the big plug above the oil filter with the orange wire going into it, the wire just pulls straight out) and remove the oil filter.
Now your ready to start taking the oil cooler out. there are 3 bolts on the oil filter side and 2 on the front of the cooler. i found it easier to use a 3/8 drive and 3" extension w/ a shallow 10mm 6 point socket. take out the 3 by the filter then move up to the front 2. the front 2 sucked to get to on my truck, but its a 2wd. if yours is 4wd it may be easier. I found that pulling the clip out of the inner fender right in front of the spring and pulling back that piece of the fender made it easier to access the 2 front bolts. just make sure you are on the bolt all the way before cranking on it. i used 15" of extension and the shallow 10mm socket through the fender to get to these 2 bolts.
Now that all 5 bolts are out you need to try to get it out. it needs to come out from the back. I had to pull my egt probe out to be able to twist the cooler enough to get it out so take a look at that. When you pull the cooler out you will need to pull it back a little, then twist it to the right, back a little, twist it right. you will probably turn it about 180* before it will come out.
Now you need to reseal it. there are a total of 4 o-rings that you need to reseal the end caps and then 2 gaskets to seal the cooler to the block. I do not remember the part numbers though. i was able to walk into Ford and tell them what i needed and got it though.
when you pull the end caps off keep them on the side they came off of and pay attention to those slots on the end cap. when you put them back on you need to have that slot lined up before you push the cap on. you can use a rubber dead blow hammer to take them off. then of course put the new o-rings in each side and then reinstall the end caps. the end caps are pretty tough to get off/on. lube the o-rings with motor oil and put some inside the end caps to make it a little easier to slide back on. If your truck is a '94 or '95 you can get the updated filter end of the oil cooler that has the snap ring style check valve if you wish. the cooler i got from Cody already had the snap ring style check valve.
Now line up the slot in the end cap and you can either press the end caps together using a press or anything that will press both sides on together. i had my buddy use his press to push them on. you have to push them on at the same time. If anyone else has suggestions for this part i would like your input
Now that the oil cooler is sealed its ready to go on the truck. Clean the gasketing surfaces on the oil cooler and the block. now get the cooler back up in there just like you had to take it out.
I started on the back side with the bolting on process. when you go to put this thing up there put the gasket on the cooler, put the bolts through the holes and then put the cooler up to the block and get the bolts threaded in a little bit. Now go get the gasket put in the front, put the bolts through, ease the cooler forward and get the bolts threaded in a little bit. now go to the back side and just snug down the bolts. don't get them tight. Now make sure the front side looks good and snug it up as well. Now you can tighten them down. i didn't use any torque specs here, but the torque spec for the cooler bolts is 18 ft. lbs.
Now that thats done put on your oil filter and make sure its topped off with oil and fire it up. Check for leaks.You will have to add coolant obviously so let the engine warm up and add coolant as needed and check for leaks every so often til you know its fine.
I hope that helps anyone whos oil cooler is leaking a little bit. mine leaked a little for a long time, but i never messed with it. It never leaked enough to worry about, but when it did start leaking more it definitely leaked. A LOT!!! i wouldn't have made it a mile down the road with it leaking like that. i would recommend after that occurance, if yours is leaking a little bit FIX IT!!! You don't want that thing to pop on you like mine did. luckily mine did it as soon as i started my truck to go home from my girlfriends house so at least i wasn't stranded and i had her truck to go get parts and stuff in. It seems that oil coolers like to blow when it gets colder outside so this is why i think mine blew. i don't remember the temp that night, but it probably got down a little below freezing.
If anyone has anything to add to this, please do. i'm not good with write ups so i probably missed some things and if i did let me know.
I want to start this off by thanking Cody for the oil cooler. Cody lent me an oil cooler so i could put new o-rings in it and just swap them out. I will give you my old one and some gaskets i have, but we need to figure one thing out on my oil cooler when i bring it.
Ok to start things off I drained both my oil and coolant b/c both needed to be changed anyways(i don't see any reason why you would have to totally drain them both).
Drain the water out of the block by taking out the block heater element(this is the big plug above the oil filter with the orange wire going into it, the wire just pulls straight out) and remove the oil filter.
Now your ready to start taking the oil cooler out. there are 3 bolts on the oil filter side and 2 on the front of the cooler. i found it easier to use a 3/8 drive and 3" extension w/ a shallow 10mm 6 point socket. take out the 3 by the filter then move up to the front 2. the front 2 sucked to get to on my truck, but its a 2wd. if yours is 4wd it may be easier. I found that pulling the clip out of the inner fender right in front of the spring and pulling back that piece of the fender made it easier to access the 2 front bolts. just make sure you are on the bolt all the way before cranking on it. i used 15" of extension and the shallow 10mm socket through the fender to get to these 2 bolts.
Now that all 5 bolts are out you need to try to get it out. it needs to come out from the back. I had to pull my egt probe out to be able to twist the cooler enough to get it out so take a look at that. When you pull the cooler out you will need to pull it back a little, then twist it to the right, back a little, twist it right. you will probably turn it about 180* before it will come out.
Now you need to reseal it. there are a total of 4 o-rings that you need to reseal the end caps and then 2 gaskets to seal the cooler to the block. I do not remember the part numbers though. i was able to walk into Ford and tell them what i needed and got it though.
when you pull the end caps off keep them on the side they came off of and pay attention to those slots on the end cap. when you put them back on you need to have that slot lined up before you push the cap on. you can use a rubber dead blow hammer to take them off. then of course put the new o-rings in each side and then reinstall the end caps. the end caps are pretty tough to get off/on. lube the o-rings with motor oil and put some inside the end caps to make it a little easier to slide back on. If your truck is a '94 or '95 you can get the updated filter end of the oil cooler that has the snap ring style check valve if you wish. the cooler i got from Cody already had the snap ring style check valve.
Now line up the slot in the end cap and you can either press the end caps together using a press or anything that will press both sides on together. i had my buddy use his press to push them on. you have to push them on at the same time. If anyone else has suggestions for this part i would like your input
Now that the oil cooler is sealed its ready to go on the truck. Clean the gasketing surfaces on the oil cooler and the block. now get the cooler back up in there just like you had to take it out.
I started on the back side with the bolting on process. when you go to put this thing up there put the gasket on the cooler, put the bolts through the holes and then put the cooler up to the block and get the bolts threaded in a little bit. Now go get the gasket put in the front, put the bolts through, ease the cooler forward and get the bolts threaded in a little bit. now go to the back side and just snug down the bolts. don't get them tight. Now make sure the front side looks good and snug it up as well. Now you can tighten them down. i didn't use any torque specs here, but the torque spec for the cooler bolts is 18 ft. lbs.
Now that thats done put on your oil filter and make sure its topped off with oil and fire it up. Check for leaks.You will have to add coolant obviously so let the engine warm up and add coolant as needed and check for leaks every so often til you know its fine.
I hope that helps anyone whos oil cooler is leaking a little bit. mine leaked a little for a long time, but i never messed with it. It never leaked enough to worry about, but when it did start leaking more it definitely leaked. A LOT!!! i wouldn't have made it a mile down the road with it leaking like that. i would recommend after that occurance, if yours is leaking a little bit FIX IT!!! You don't want that thing to pop on you like mine did. luckily mine did it as soon as i started my truck to go home from my girlfriends house so at least i wasn't stranded and i had her truck to go get parts and stuff in. It seems that oil coolers like to blow when it gets colder outside so this is why i think mine blew. i don't remember the temp that night, but it probably got down a little below freezing.
If anyone has anything to add to this, please do. i'm not good with write ups so i probably missed some things and if i did let me know.
X2 on that!
#4
12-07-2009, 09:31 AM
GOOD WRITE UP
hey guys my oil cooler had been leaking for a long time out of the end caps and then yesterday i started the truck and it just started gushing oil out as soon as it fired. so i had to change it. i know there have been guys on here that wanted to know how to do this and i haven't seen a write up for it yet so i will do a small write up of what i can remember on this. enjoy!
I want to start this off by thanking Cody for the oil cooler. Cody lent me an oil cooler so i could put new o-rings in it and just swap them out. I will give you my old one and some gaskets i have, but we need to figure one thing out on my oil cooler when i bring it.
Ok to start things off I drained both my oil and coolant b/c both needed to be changed anyways(i don't see any reason why you would have to totally drain them both).
Drain the water out of the block by taking out the block heater element(this is the big plug above the oil filter with the orange wire going into it, the wire just pulls straight out) and remove the oil filter.
Now your ready to start taking the oil cooler out. there are 3 bolts on the oil filter side and 2 on the front of the cooler. i found it easier to use a 3/8 drive and 3" extension w/ a shallow 10mm 6 point socket. take out the 3 by the filter then move up to the front 2. the front 2 sucked to get to on my truck, but its a 2wd. if yours is 4wd it may be easier. I found that pulling the clip out of the inner fender right in front of the spring and pulling back that piece of the fender made it easier to access the 2 front bolts. just make sure you are on the bolt all the way before cranking on it. i used 15" of extension and the shallow 10mm socket through the fender to get to these 2 bolts.
Now that all 5 bolts are out you need to try to get it out. it needs to come out from the back. I had to pull my egt probe out to be able to twist the cooler enough to get it out so take a look at that. When you pull the cooler out you will need to pull it back a little, then twist it to the right, back a little, twist it right. you will probably turn it about 180* before it will come out.
Now you need to reseal it. there are a total of 4 o-rings that you need to reseal the end caps and then 2 gaskets to seal the cooler to the block. I do not remember the part numbers though. i was able to walk into Ford and tell them what i needed and got it though.
when you pull the end caps off keep them on the side they came off of and pay attention to those slots on the end cap. when you put them back on you need to have that slot lined up before you push the cap on. you can use a rubber dead blow hammer to take them off. then of course put the new o-rings in each side and then reinstall the end caps. the end caps are pretty tough to get off/on. lube the o-rings with motor oil and put some inside the end caps to make it a little easier to slide back on. If your truck is a '94 or '95 you can get the updated filter end of the oil cooler that has the snap ring style check valve if you wish. the cooler i got from Cody already had the snap ring style check valve.
Now line up the slot in the end cap and you can either press the end caps together using a press or anything that will press both sides on together. i had my buddy use his press to push them on. you have to push them on at the same time. If anyone else has suggestions for this part i would like your input
Now that the oil cooler is sealed its ready to go on the truck. Clean the gasketing surfaces on the oil cooler and the block. now get the cooler back up in there just like you had to take it out.
I started on the back side with the bolting on process. when you go to put this thing up there put the gasket on the cooler, put the bolts through the holes and then put the cooler up to the block and get the bolts threaded in a little bit. Now go get the gasket put in the front, put the bolts through, ease the cooler forward and get the bolts threaded in a little bit. now go to the back side and just snug down the bolts. don't get them tight. Now make sure the front side looks good and snug it up as well. Now you can tighten them down. i didn't use any torque specs here, but the torque spec for the cooler bolts is 18 ft. lbs.
Now that thats done put on your oil filter and make sure its topped off with oil and fire it up. Check for leaks.You will have to add coolant obviously so let the engine warm up and add coolant as needed and check for leaks every so often til you know its fine.
I hope that helps anyone whos oil cooler is leaking a little bit. mine leaked a little for a long time, but i never messed with it. It never leaked enough to worry about, but when it did start leaking more it definitely leaked. A LOT!!! i wouldn't have made it a mile down the road with it leaking like that. i would recommend after that occurance, if yours is leaking a little bit FIX IT!!! You don't want that thing to pop on you like mine did. luckily mine did it as soon as i started my truck to go home from my girlfriends house so at least i wasn't stranded and i had her truck to go get parts and stuff in. It seems that oil coolers like to blow when it gets colder outside so this is why i think mine blew. i don't remember the temp that night, but it probably got down a little below freezing.
If anyone has anything to add to this, please do. i'm not good with write ups so i probably missed some things and if i did let me know.
I want to start this off by thanking Cody for the oil cooler. Cody lent me an oil cooler so i could put new o-rings in it and just swap them out. I will give you my old one and some gaskets i have, but we need to figure one thing out on my oil cooler when i bring it.
Ok to start things off I drained both my oil and coolant b/c both needed to be changed anyways(i don't see any reason why you would have to totally drain them both).
Drain the water out of the block by taking out the block heater element(this is the big plug above the oil filter with the orange wire going into it, the wire just pulls straight out) and remove the oil filter.
Now your ready to start taking the oil cooler out. there are 3 bolts on the oil filter side and 2 on the front of the cooler. i found it easier to use a 3/8 drive and 3" extension w/ a shallow 10mm 6 point socket. take out the 3 by the filter then move up to the front 2. the front 2 sucked to get to on my truck, but its a 2wd. if yours is 4wd it may be easier. I found that pulling the clip out of the inner fender right in front of the spring and pulling back that piece of the fender made it easier to access the 2 front bolts. just make sure you are on the bolt all the way before cranking on it. i used 15" of extension and the shallow 10mm socket through the fender to get to these 2 bolts.
Now that all 5 bolts are out you need to try to get it out. it needs to come out from the back. I had to pull my egt probe out to be able to twist the cooler enough to get it out so take a look at that. When you pull the cooler out you will need to pull it back a little, then twist it to the right, back a little, twist it right. you will probably turn it about 180* before it will come out.
Now you need to reseal it. there are a total of 4 o-rings that you need to reseal the end caps and then 2 gaskets to seal the cooler to the block. I do not remember the part numbers though. i was able to walk into Ford and tell them what i needed and got it though.
when you pull the end caps off keep them on the side they came off of and pay attention to those slots on the end cap. when you put them back on you need to have that slot lined up before you push the cap on. you can use a rubber dead blow hammer to take them off. then of course put the new o-rings in each side and then reinstall the end caps. the end caps are pretty tough to get off/on. lube the o-rings with motor oil and put some inside the end caps to make it a little easier to slide back on. If your truck is a '94 or '95 you can get the updated filter end of the oil cooler that has the snap ring style check valve if you wish. the cooler i got from Cody already had the snap ring style check valve.
Now line up the slot in the end cap and you can either press the end caps together using a press or anything that will press both sides on together. i had my buddy use his press to push them on. you have to push them on at the same time. If anyone else has suggestions for this part i would like your input
Now that the oil cooler is sealed its ready to go on the truck. Clean the gasketing surfaces on the oil cooler and the block. now get the cooler back up in there just like you had to take it out.
I started on the back side with the bolting on process. when you go to put this thing up there put the gasket on the cooler, put the bolts through the holes and then put the cooler up to the block and get the bolts threaded in a little bit. Now go get the gasket put in the front, put the bolts through, ease the cooler forward and get the bolts threaded in a little bit. now go to the back side and just snug down the bolts. don't get them tight. Now make sure the front side looks good and snug it up as well. Now you can tighten them down. i didn't use any torque specs here, but the torque spec for the cooler bolts is 18 ft. lbs.
Now that thats done put on your oil filter and make sure its topped off with oil and fire it up. Check for leaks.You will have to add coolant obviously so let the engine warm up and add coolant as needed and check for leaks every so often til you know its fine.
I hope that helps anyone whos oil cooler is leaking a little bit. mine leaked a little for a long time, but i never messed with it. It never leaked enough to worry about, but when it did start leaking more it definitely leaked. A LOT!!! i wouldn't have made it a mile down the road with it leaking like that. i would recommend after that occurance, if yours is leaking a little bit FIX IT!!! You don't want that thing to pop on you like mine did. luckily mine did it as soon as i started my truck to go home from my girlfriends house so at least i wasn't stranded and i had her truck to go get parts and stuff in. It seems that oil coolers like to blow when it gets colder outside so this is why i think mine blew. i don't remember the temp that night, but it probably got down a little below freezing.
If anyone has anything to add to this, please do. i'm not good with write ups so i probably missed some things and if i did let me know.
Very Good Write up Travis. I copied your write up and then this link into MS Word for later reference.
Rocky
http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show.../medium/sort/1
Oil Cooler Housing,filter end 94-97; Updated snap ring retained check valve
(Ford)F81Z-6881-BA
Oil Cooler housing, Front, 94-97
(Ford) F4TZ-6881-B
Oil Cooler Housing Gasket (front)
(Ford) F7TZ-6A636-AAA ???
(International) 1831666C1
Oil Cooler Housing Gasket (rear; oil filter end)
(Ford) F4TZ-6A636-AA (97-up)
(Ford) F4TZ-6A636-B (96-before)
(International) 1831665C1
Oil Cooler O-Rings (one each to seal cooler at each header)
(Ford) 1C3Z-6C610-BA
(Ford) 1C3Z-6K649-BA
(International) 1807563-C1, Inner
(International) 1804414-C1 OuterOil Cooler Tube / Core
(Ford) 1C3Z-6A642-AA
#5
12-07-2009, 01:16 PM
+++++++++++
Very Good Write up Travis. I copied your write up and then this link into MS Word for later reference.
Rocky
TheDieselStop.Com Photo Hosting - Oil cooler O-ring repair
Oil Cooler Housing,filter end 94-97; Updated snap ring retained check valve
(Ford)F81Z-6881-BA
Oil Cooler housing, Front, 94-97
(Ford) F4TZ-6881-B
Oil Cooler Housing Gasket (front)
(Ford) F7TZ-6A636-AAA ???
(International) 1831666C1
Oil Cooler Housing Gasket (rear; oil filter end)
(Ford) F4TZ-6A636-AA (97-up)
(Ford) F4TZ-6A636-B (96-before)
(International) 1831665C1
Oil Cooler O-Rings (one each to seal cooler at each header)
(Ford) 1C3Z-6C610-BA
(Ford) 1C3Z-6K649-BA
(International) 1807563-C1, Inner
(International) 1804414-C1 OuterOil Cooler Tube / Core
(Ford) 1C3Z-6A642-AA
Very Good Write up Travis. I copied your write up and then this link into MS Word for later reference.
Rocky
TheDieselStop.Com Photo Hosting - Oil cooler O-ring repair
Oil Cooler Housing,filter end 94-97; Updated snap ring retained check valve
(Ford)F81Z-6881-BA
Oil Cooler housing, Front, 94-97
(Ford) F4TZ-6881-B
Oil Cooler Housing Gasket (front)
(Ford) F7TZ-6A636-AAA ???
(International) 1831666C1
Oil Cooler Housing Gasket (rear; oil filter end)
(Ford) F4TZ-6A636-AA (97-up)
(Ford) F4TZ-6A636-B (96-before)
(International) 1831665C1
Oil Cooler O-Rings (one each to seal cooler at each header)
(Ford) 1C3Z-6C610-BA
(Ford) 1C3Z-6K649-BA
(International) 1807563-C1, Inner
(International) 1804414-C1 OuterOil Cooler Tube / Core
(Ford) 1C3Z-6A642-AA
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