So I cracked my 84's Oil Cooler Housing.....and I put the 1990's Oil Cooler on, and now I got coolant and oil pissing everywhere....any ideas as to why??? what are the torque specs, i searched and found some articles but no definitive answer....

 

o-rings could be leaky, could have a bad seal against the block on either ear

or

center section could be leaky/pin-holed.

Clean it off and watch to see where it seeps from

 

Yep. They're the same unit, so it's either a bad cooler or bad seals somewhere. Sounds like one of the cooler to block gaskets slipped out of position on you. Bad O-rings or a hole in the cooler would give you a just oil or coolant, not both. I can't remember which. Or you'd be mixing oil & coolant internally. The only way i can think to leak both is the gasket.

 

well its seeping from the bottom of the front header portion of the cooler, O-Rings are fine cause that cooler wasn't leaking or anyhting when I pulled that motor...

 

Need to seal the crap out of the gaskets... I use the brush on permatex stuff (super sticky) and it works great.

 

See the old cooler when i pulled it just had the gasket from the factory lol....idk why its being such a pain....so i gotta pull the motor again then reseal that damn thing? Question on the gasket, there is a little red pinstripe of some sort on the gaskets, I assume both those gotta be facing the block?

 

You can't change the oil cooler while its in the truck?

 

dont know which way the printoseal goes but the gasket goes on only one way, so if you flipped it it may be the prob.

I always glue the gasket to the header with high tack and nothing against the block, so Yes I think the print seal goes block side, did you put new orings on the bundle?

 

Russ Give me a call...you have probably done this more than most...but i didnt think the print stuff mattered so on the headers...yes i did new orings and there is no leak from the cooler housings so im good there....but now i am faced with fixing this damn oil cooler AGAIN....its the only thing stopping me from finishing the build. I was doing my boost test when i noticed it again....i got a couple other less serious issues:

Nothing works inside my cab...no lights, nothing....I didn't relocate the GP relay....should I do that? I got it moved off to the side for right now....but i turn the key off...the dome light comes on. I turn it on...it doesnt work at all. Any guesses as to why? The relay isnt bolted down or anything...but when lowered the motor to prep to put my ZF5 back on....it came on and worked normally...except my WTS didn't come on and the GP's didnt fire....i know the GP's are brand new cause i put new motorcrafts in before the motor went in. I am thinking about going to a manual push button but I have never done it. Can anyone give me ideas.

 

my cell is dead, call me 5035373076

 

1) The gaskets will only go one way. Can't remember which way the red bead goes, but they'll only fit one way. Make sure everything is lined up and use something to stick them to the oil cooler, not the block. Much easier to clean off the next time you need to replace them.

2) I like to use Permatex gasket adhesive, it comes in a little can with a brush and works really well when all you need is a bit of sticky. It's a purplish color. Just make sure the gasket is where you want it before it dries....

3) You do not need to pull the engine to change the cooler. Remove the nuts on the driver's side engine mount and use a jack to lift that side of the engine about 2". Make sure all the hoses and wires are slacked enough that nothing gets pulled. Probably need to remove the fan shroud bolts as well. I can't remember what i used to jack under last time I did this but any stout spot should work. Just use common sense. Once it's up, put a block of wood or something between the pan and crossmember for safety and remove the engine mount from the block. Then you can fish the cooler out to the back without much trouble. Not exactly easy, but certainly better than pulling the engine.

 

Per the Ford service tech manual, to remove/install the oil cooler you have to unbolt the engine isolator on the drivers side of the engine. The two bolts are located on the underside of the crossmember, and are a pain to get out. But once those bolts are out lift the engine with a hoist 1-2 inches and slide a block of wood under the isolator/crossmember (so the engine cant fall). Then just unbolt the oil cooler and maneuver it out the back side of the engine compartment.

I hope this helps... I've only done it once so there might be an easier or more effective way.

 

If you used the felpro printoseal gaskets everyone is right about them only fitting one way. I think the red striping faces out. Also, if you just took the cooler off and reinstalled it without resealing the orings, most likely the rotation of the endcaps while installing it caused the orings to fail. They become VERY brittle and dont tolerate any kind or movement whatsoever.

 

I disagree with the O-rings, you're not going to get coolant and oil leakage both from o-rings. And yes they are brittle, but usually not so bad that carefully removing the cooler will cause them to fail. Yanking on it and prying and such, sure but not typical removal.

That being said, it's a pretty good idea to replace the O-rings cause they do like to fail. It's a kind of tricky PIA job though. And if you screw it up you woln't know until you wind up with water in the oil & vice versa which is a huge pain to clean up. Unless of course you hydro test it first, but then you need to make the fittings to do that......

 

Ok well I am just gonna roll with the oil cooler, i put a gasket on backwards....explains the front leak, not the rear however...i will just have to pull the motor back out, there are some other things I am gonna do to it anyway, 1st, a question for you turbo guys and 2nd, question in general:

Nothing works inside my cab...no lights, nothing....I didn't relocate the GP relay....should I do that? I got it moved off to the side for right now....but i turn the key off...the dome light comes on. I turn it on...it doesnt work at all. Any guesses as to why? The relay isnt bolted down or anything...but when lowered the motor to prep to put my ZF5 back on....it came on and worked normally...except my WTS didn't come on and the GP's didnt fire....i know the GP's are brand new cause i put new motorcrafts in before the motor went in. I am thinking about going to a manual push button but I have never done it. Can anyone give me ideas.

Should I relocate that GP solenoid to the passenger valve cover? Can someone post a picture of their IDIT engine and where the GP controller is mounted?