I also noticed my left passenger door won't roll down using either the driver's controls or the actual controls on the passenger door. do separate relays and fuses control all windows? does anybody know a common problem that effects just one window?

 

I made 3 assumptions in the below response. First assumption, you're referring to a passenger window not rolling down versus a door that doesn't roll (sorry, being a smart **** here), and second, the 2003 and 2004 Aviator have the same diagram. I'm not sure what year your Aviator is so I picked the 2003 service manual to look at. The third assumption I made is you're referring to the rear driver's side window since the front window controls are in the center console (none on the front doors) and the passenger side in the US would be the right side. If any of these assumptions are wrong, please correct me.

There is only 1 relay in the circuit for all power windows, and that is the accessory delay relay.

The power for the left rear door window is routed through the accessory delay relay (which is good since other windows work), through the master window switch up front, then through the left rear window switch, and to the left rear window motor.

My suggestion would be to start by removing the left rear door panel, then checking for power with the key on to the left rear window switch at pin 4 (red/light blue wire) relative to ground. I suspect you'll have power here. If so, confirm you have continue to ground at both pins 7 (yellow/black wire) and 3 (yellow/light blue). If so, then press the button to the "down" direction and check for power at pin 3 (yellow/light blue). If you have power here, there's a very good chance the issue is with the power window motor. Trace the wires from pins 7 and 3 to the motor. Somewhere between pin 7 and the motor the wire color will change to brown, and pin 3's wire will change to brown/yellow. If you don't find any wiring issue between these, then you can do one last check for correct power at the plug where the wire colors change. If you have good power and ground there, that pretty much condemns the power window motor assembly, unless you happen to hear a click or clunking when pressing the window switch. If that's the case, then the window regulator may be the issue, or the track may be tweaked causing the window to bind.

-Rod

 

Ok. I'll check the wiring. Do you know how to remove the door panel. So far I don't hear clicking noise when I attempt to roll the window down. Thank you

 

I have the 2003 model

 

I had all the door panels off in my 2004 Aviator to upgrade the speakers. I remember they were not too difficult, but I don't recall the specifics. I can check the service manual again this evening when I'm home.

-Rod

 

There is one screw along the bottom of the rear door trim. There is another screw behind a cover behind and below the door release handle. Underneath a cover in the bottom of the hand pull there are two screws. Once you remove the hand pull with the window switch in it, there will be one more screw that you can now access. Once those 5 screws are removed, the rest of the door panel should just unhook from the door. I don't think there are the little plastic snap pins on these doors like they used several years ago, my recall is the door kind of hooks in at the bottom, then lowers over the door lock **** and window channel. To remove the door panel I think you lift up on the trim panel and start to pull it out. You will need to unhook the cable for the door latch if you wish to completely remove the door panel and get it out of the way.

-Rod

 

thanks shorod .I'm going to try to take time this weekend to see what I can do to get this window problem squared away

 

i got the panel off, but put it back on without testing the wiring. I'm assuming you mean to get a wire tester, find the ground wire and test each wire, right?

 

i hear the button clicking when I press it, but no clicking other than that.

 

when I get a chance, i'm going to buy a voltage tester, but I was going to ask you, shorod, after taking the panel off, do I need to take the black plastic cover thats glued to the metal off?

 

Yeah, you will need a method to test for voltage (either a test light or a multimeter). You do not need to use a ground wire in the bundle for the tester, any clean, known ground will work.

If you can get to the back side of the power window switch without removing the black plastic, you can start by confirming you have voltage to the switch. If you do and you need to test at the window motor, you will need to remove the plastic vapor barrier that's stuck to the door frame. I assume that's what you're referring to by "black plastic cover that's glued to the metal." It should be removable without destroying the plastic or the adhesive. That "glue" will usually separate and re-adhere to itself.

-Rod