Hello all

New to forum, Longtime Ford Enthusiast, Owner and rider...lol

Family has owned Ford for a long time both in Portugal and US.

I've tried searching the forum, however I was not able to find the information I'm looking for.

A bit over a year and a half ago I acquired a 2004 E-250 from the company that I worked for about 12 years, they went bankrupt and I wasn't offered a position in the company. Purchased it for use in my IT consulting business. it was used as a Topographical Survey Truck.

Picked it up for $500, with 170k. 4.6L.

It started to make some noise/vibrations at low speeds from standstill in flat surfaces and louder on an uphill. the noise appears to come from the rear. My dad suggested the differential from experience (he had a 1987 E150 Shorty 4.9L 4 speed). From that I replaced the differential Fluid @175k. all was well no noises or vibrations. that only lasted 5K. they slowly started coming back. At times I also feel a slack in the drive line, almost like a worn U-Joint. Not sure if its all diff related or not.

i assume with that mileage and unknown use the diff may be the part at fault.

I would like to replace the diff with a limited slip version. What are my options?

I believe I have a Dana 60 Semi-Float Rear Axle. If the Diff is replaced does the pinion gear or axle shafts also need replacement? U-joints should also be replaced?

Any help or direction would be appreciated.

Thank you

 

With the mileage you posted, first guest would be the U-joints.

Simple and low cost replacement.

A simple test is to get it rolling around 35-40mph, take you foot off the gas pedal, if you hear a clunk, it's the U-joints.

I would change those out before I would start ordering a new rear end.

You might want to check the rear differential oil level also, or even change the oil to see if you have any metal particles in the oil, that would tell you the condition of the Diff.

Wheel bearing, and pinions gears do go bad, but not that offend.

 

Another quick way to check U-joints is foot firmly on brake, put trans into gear reverse or drive, listen for a clunk or click--that too isn't normal and would strongly suggest u-joints.

To confirm its u-joints find a flat level area set parking brake (engine off) put trans in neutral and crawl underneath. Shake or try twisting the drive shaft---any movement easily induced that way also points to u-joints.

IF that's all it is (hopefully) use top quality parts, preferrably Spicer or Dana with grease Zerks. Lube them along with a regular chassis maintenance, typically same time as oil change.

ALSO keep in mind the drive shaft is a balanced assembly relative to the front yoke. CAREFULLY mark them in relation to one another so that when reassembled those mating marks align. If this step isn't followed you might have a mild to severe vibration.

 

I did WildMan25 test, didnt really hear anything, I'll try yours tonite, and post back findings, i'll also do another Diff Fluid swap, what is the right viscosity?

what is a part of the regular chassis maintenance?

Thank you

 

I did the 2nd test you suggested, the drive shaft and end move together without any slack, there is however 1/16 to 1/8 of play on the drive-shaft, the trans was in neutral.

how much slack movement is allowed?

i'll try to do a diff fluid swap tonight or tomorrow night, what is the best and correct viscosity needed?

thank you

 

There should be a little turning play in the drive shaft/transmission connection, but should not be any up/down, or side to side play in the U-joints.

So, your best to check on the differential it's self, as you planned.

I didn't know the "newer" fluid for what you have, the 2004, so I did a little checking, and found this for you -

Welcome to guzzle's Rear Differential Maintenance Web Page

Yes, I know it's for a F-series, and a diesel, but the overall info is applicable for your van, along with color pictures

With the fluid dropped, and the cover off, you'll see if you have damage and if the pinion gear is correct, that resolve any questions you have.

As far as your original post, just ordering a new rear end.........it's still very feasible to re-build the rear end, than just swap out the differential.

 

Thank You for the info, I will check up and down and side to side tomorrow.
the u-joints looked like they were in good shape.

thanks again for the link, i will read it thru and see what else it reveals.

the only reason i was considering a diff replacement was to get the limited slip upgrade. i was considering an internal parts replacement. not the whole thing. also wasnt looking to go crazy with diff ratios. with most of my tools i dont seem to be able to get more than 13mpg to the tank, kind of sad to the rated 20, 20 is however empty...lol

i been reading the other post covering all that info

thanks again, i'll follow up with any relevant info.

thank you