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Hello, new to the forum and my first post here I hope you guys can help. I recently installed a Surepower 24023A battery isolator in my new 2015 F250, 6.2 gas engine. The isolator is for my auxillary battery bank of 2 deep cycle group 27 batteries for my slide in camper. The alternator and isolator require a 12 volt feed from an ignition circuit to excite the alternator/voltage regulator to "tell" the alternator to turn on. I found a bundle of blunt cut wires uder the drivers side dash and one was labeled "Run Acc". I checked that wire and it supplies 12volts when the engine is running. I used that wire to hook up the exciter terminal on the isolator. Everything checks out, I have voltage from the alternator and to the starting battery and to the auxillary bank. The problem I discovered is when I remote start the engine(Ford factory installed) that circuit I used is not energized and the alternator is not turning on. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to run and every thing functions as intended. Does anyone know where I can find an ignition circuit to use that will be energized with both standard start and remote start? Thanks for your help.
this is a simple problem to solve. just did this last week. open the fuse box in the engine compartment and you will find a few empty fuse positions (there are 3 on the forward edge). buy a fuse extended at an auto parts store. the extended has a wire attached, plugs into a fuse socket, and excepts fuses. take the extender and install it so that the wire side is not on the hot pin....not getting power....test it to make sure. put a small fuse in it and when ever the key is turned, the wire will have power. connect the wire to what ever needs a ignition on signal.
Remote start from Ford does not energize many circuits that aren't needed to just start and run engine. When key is inserted and turned on, the other circuits are energized.
Why did you need isolator. The 7pin plug has a 12v circuit to charge the trailer batteries.
speakerfritz I'll check and see if I can find a circuit in the fuse center but like Just Strokin said not many circuits are energized in remote start mode. Just Strokin I have a slide in camper not a trailer. If I'm off the grid, not plugged into shorepower or generator I don't want the starting battery supplying power to the camper, the isolator allows me to charge both the starting battery and the auxillary bank from the alternator but allows the auxillary bank to discharge and run the camper and not effect the starting battery.
speakerfritz I'll check and see if I can find a circuit in the fuse center but like Just Strokin said not many circuits are energized in remote start mode. Just Strokin I have a slide in camper not a trailer. If I'm off the grid, not plugged into shorepower or generator I don't want the starting battery supplying power to the camper, the isolator allows me to charge both the starting battery and the auxillary bank from the alternator but allows the auxillary bank to discharge and run the camper and not effect the starting battery.
I believe if you check the 7pin plug...power is only available when the truck is running or ignition switch is in run position. This prevents draining the truck battery when parked over night or for a few days with trailer plugged in...
speakerfritz I'll check and see if I can find a circuit in the fuse center but like Just Strokin said not many circuits are energized in remote start mode. Just Strokin I have a slide in camper not a trailer. If I'm off the grid, not plugged into shorepower or generator I don't want the starting battery supplying power to the camper, the isolator allows me to charge both the starting battery and the auxillary bank from the alternator but allows the auxillary bank to discharge and run the camper and not effect the starting battery.
you need one that is energized and stays energized...like the fuel pump circut....key or remote start you need fuel.
Just strokin, I checked the 7 pin and there is voltage with the key start and should be with remote start also. I see alternator voltage(about 15 volts) with key start and battery voltage(about 12.5 volts) on remote start, that suggests that the 7 pin is energized both ways. A couple of downsides, I already have $$ and time invested in the isolator setup and using the 7 pin to power my camper prohibits me from pulling a trailer with the camper on board without some creative wiring to power both. Also Im not sure of the wire size to the 7 pin but Im using 4 gauge to my auxillary battery bank.
The parking lights are energized when the truck is remote started so Im looking at using that circuit for the isolator exciter. Thanks for the ideas and suggestions.
The parking lights are energized when the truck is remote started so Im looking at using that circuit for the isolator exciter.
but if you turn off parking lights while driving during the day, aux battery won't charge since isloator exciter will no longer get a 12v signal.
I think you have a good understanding of your current requirements so I'm not going to comment on using the #7 pin as a power source for you aux needs, especially if you ae running an inverter.
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