Electrical Issue....Need help fast
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
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Electrical Issue....Need help fast
Hey guys, quick question. Today I changed my alternator and broke my own number 1 rule of working on cars "always disconnect the negative terminal on the battery" Anyway when I was making the connection to the new alternator, the wire touched something and popped. I definately popped something because the radio in the truck came on all by itself immediately. Any idea where to start. Could this just be like a delay acc fuse or something. I can't imagine it being a fuse, because if I had a blown fuse, I would think things would not work as opposed to the radio coming on all by itself....with not key in the ign. I am leaving for a trip and want to make sure all is well before I leave.
thanks!!
thanks!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
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You mean the wire (big red one on the back of the alternator) that touched?
That is the wire going to the starter solenoid, on its way to the battery.
Somewhere along there is a fusible link.
If you popped it, it is there.
Use a Voltmeter to see if you detect voltage on that wire --- if you do, you didn't pop it.
It would be likely a fusible link rated at your alternator's max output and a bit... 120 or so amps.
Not so easy to pop.
I assume everything about your vehicle is still working.
That is the wire going to the starter solenoid, on its way to the battery.
Somewhere along there is a fusible link.
If you popped it, it is there.
Use a Voltmeter to see if you detect voltage on that wire --- if you do, you didn't pop it.
It would be likely a fusible link rated at your alternator's max output and a bit... 120 or so amps.
Not so easy to pop.
I assume everything about your vehicle is still working.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
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Yes, I was talking about the big red wire going to the alt. Everything seems to function fine in the truck after this little mishap. Could this have temporarily tripped a relay or something. Somehow the radio must have received some sort of ign on signal in order to power up. It powered itself off after a couple mins. Is there anyway to test current draw on a vehicle when the vehicle is completely asleep to see if I have any unwanted draw??
Cheezit...I am not sure I understand your statement...are you just saying that is where the red wire goes?
Cheezit...I am not sure I understand your statement...are you just saying that is where the red wire goes?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 6
You can use a clamp on ammeter.
300 milliamps or so for the sleep mode power drain.
800 milliamps to 1 amp for it in "wake" (with no lights etc on).
A tad more if things like alarms, starters, etc involved.
Most cheapie Voltmeters will let you measure 1amp or so current directly (by putting ammeter in between).
More and you blow the meter.
Get a clamp on for real work.
300 milliamps or so for the sleep mode power drain.
800 milliamps to 1 amp for it in "wake" (with no lights etc on).
A tad more if things like alarms, starters, etc involved.
Most cheapie Voltmeters will let you measure 1amp or so current directly (by putting ammeter in between).
More and you blow the meter.
Get a clamp on for real work.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
You can use a clamp on ammeter.
300 milliamps or so for the sleep mode power drain.
800 milliamps to 1 amp for it in "wake" (with no lights etc on).
A tad more if things like alarms, starters, etc involved.
Most cheapie Voltmeters will let you measure 1amp or so current directly (by putting ammeter in between).
More and you blow the meter.
Get a clamp on for real work.
300 milliamps or so for the sleep mode power drain.
800 milliamps to 1 amp for it in "wake" (with no lights etc on).
A tad more if things like alarms, starters, etc involved.
Most cheapie Voltmeters will let you measure 1amp or so current directly (by putting ammeter in between).
More and you blow the meter.
Get a clamp on for real work.
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