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I would just order online that's what I did. As I come up with questions I have been able to get a hold of them it just takes little luck. Sometimes I just talked to the other guy there for advice.
Well, I just did a parts list. Looks to be around $8,500 for everything I'd like. This started out as a cam replacement and has spiralled. Here is what I'd like some advice on (from them, hence my desire to have a conversation while placing the order):
I want a 500/500 build for a relatively heavy truck
Can I get that with my 1U crank and rods and how big a risk am I taking putting higher stresses on those rods
How different will it pull between the 1U crank and a 4.250 stroker
Piston selection in either case, and what CR should we target
Can I get by with the stock rocker assembly, I don't plan to race it but I would like to pull 6,000 on occasion
I want to go with a hydraulic roller set up, need a cam recommendation based on everythign else
Recommendation on the lifters, they have limited travel hydraulic roller lifters that sound interesting
I'm looking for some heads as well, but given how backed up they are, should I take them dissasembled and build them here?
How long will it actually take to get what I order.
Given that they don't seem to answer their phone, and that they have not answered any of the three emails I have sent, I can assume customer service is non existent.
None of this suggests they are not good and honourable people. I want to go to them because I respect what he has given back to the FE community. Just can't place an order if they can't answer their phone. I do make sure I have my credit card ready if they answer.
I think Barry is a great guy but his business is booming and it's a small shop. There are others with very good reputations that can get the same parts, I think I posted them earlier. I have called and talked to all of these guys before.
Blair Patrick Enterprises (423) 837-1514 (dyno on site)
Lynkins Motorsports, (502) 759-1431 (dyno on site)
FE Specialties, (916) 339-0427 (dyno on site)
Wes Adaams, Westside Auto (541)-331-1484
Barry & Blair are currently at Beaver Springs this weekend for the FE Race & Reunion.
From the Dyno results these guys have posted and from my discussions with them even the tamest 4.25 stroker will make between 450-500 ft lbs of torque just below 3000 RPM. I think the longer stroke will make slightly more torque and it will come in sooner than the shorter stroke.
They've all told me if your going to be towing it's best to stay at 9 or below for compression.
I've heard all these guys say somewhere in the neighborhood of 5500 rpms is all you should push stock rocker assemblies too.
I think they all prefer a roller cam setup. I know Blair does.
Thanks Anthony, especially for pointing out it is the FE Race and Reunion weekend. I'll try next week.
I'll never tow with it, it just ain't a Mustang. Being 4WD it is a little heavier than a 2WD. It is really a bit of a street rod, and that is the direction I'm taking it. It has no practical responsibilities! If I need a truck for hauling stuff I have a Suburban and access to lots of trucks (my brother is a used truck dealer).
Thanks Anthony, especially for pointing out it is the FE Race and Reunion weekend. I'll try next week.
I'll never tow with it, it just ain't a Mustang. Being 4WD it is a little heavier than a 2WD. It is really a bit of a street rod, and that is the direction I'm taking it. It has no practical responsibilities! If I need a truck for hauling stuff I have a Suburban and access to lots of trucks (my brother is a used truck dealer).
Well, I just did a parts list. Looks to be around $8,500 for everything I'd like. This started out as a cam replacement and has spiralled. Here is what I'd like some advice on (from them, hence my desire to have a conversation while placing the order):
I want a 500/500 build for a relatively heavy truck
Can I get that with my 1U crank and rods and how big a risk am I taking putting higher stresses on those rods
How different will it pull between the 1U crank and a 4.250 stroker
Piston selection in either case, and what CR should we target
Can I get by with the stock rocker assembly, I don't plan to race it but I would like to pull 6,000 on occasion
I want to go with a hydraulic roller set up, need a cam recommendation based on everythign else
Recommendation on the lifters, they have limited travel hydraulic roller lifters that sound interesting
I'm looking for some heads as well, but given how backed up they are, should I take them dissasembled and build them here?
How long will it actually take to get what I order.
Given that they don't seem to answer their phone, and that they have not answered any of the three emails I have sent, I can assume customer service is non existent.
None of this suggests they are not good and honourable people. I want to go to them because I respect what he has given back to the FE community. Just can't place an order if they can't answer their phone. I do make sure I have my credit card ready if they answer.
If I had a 1U crank I probably would be tempted to build that but something about the 4.25" crank is hard to not want to try. I don't think you will get away with stock rockers with springs for the roller cam setup but I may be wrong. You say about stressing your rods above and I find it hard to believe that under normal conditions you'll have a problem. In Barrys book he makes it out to be that age itself is doing them in too. I'm not saying what you should do or you'll have your $8500 bill lol. Im not there yet but I think in the $6k range for sure.
I think Barry is a great guy but his business is booming and it's a small shop. There are others with very good reputations that can get the same parts, I think I posted them earlier. I have called and talked to all of these guys before.
Blair Patrick Enterprises (423) 837-1514 (dyno on site)
Lynkins Motorsports, (502) 759-1431 (dyno on site)
FE Specialties, (916) 339-0427 (dyno on site)
Wes Adaams, Westside Auto (541)-331-1484
Barry & Blair are currently at Beaver Springs this weekend for the FE Race & Reunion.
From the Dyno results these guys have posted and from my discussions with them even the tamest 4.25 stroker will make between 450-500 ft lbs of torque just below 3000 RPM. I think the longer stroke will make slightly more torque and it will come in sooner than the shorter stroke.
They've all told me if your going to be towing it's best to stay at 9 or below for compression.
I've heard all these guys say somewhere in the neighborhood of 5500 rpms is all you should push stock rocker assemblies too.
I think they all prefer a roller cam setup. I know Blair does.
Tomorrow I'm thinking about making the 2 hour drive to the FE Race and Reunion. Maybe I'll see Barry it would be nice to meet him in person once. It woulda been nice if he coulda hand delivered my T&D rockers.
Maybe I keep the crank and rods and go with new rockers. The thing is, I can change the rockers next year, can't change the crank and rods that easily. And it isn't easy to turn away from the 4.25 stroke.
The killer is the exchange rate. I'm looking at an 82 cent dollar these days, so that $8,500 becomes $10,500, and my income didn't go up, just my costs. I might be able to trim that a little, may re-use more parts. I've wanted to build a serious engine since I was a teen. It is time. Now if only I can get them to pick up a phone next week.
I do have a buddy who is a pretty good junk yard builder. He wants to buy my old rotating assembly, plus the heads and intake he already swapped me for a Holly Street Dominator intake, and swap me a virgin 390 block. Could knock a few hundred off the cost. I can't lean into him too hard because he gives me a lot of help.
Maybe I keep the crank and rods and go with new rockers. The thing is, I can change the rockers next year, can't change the crank and rods that easily. And it isn't easy to turn away from the 4.25 stroke.
The killer is the exchange rate. I'm looking at an 82 cent dollar these days, so that $8,500 becomes $10,500, and my income didn't go up, just my costs. I might be able to trim that a little, may re-use more parts. I've wanted to build a serious engine since I was a teen. It is time. Now if only I can get them to pick up a phone next week.
I do have a buddy who is a pretty good junk yard builder. He wants to buy my old rotating assembly, plus the heads and intake he already swapped me for a Holly Street Dominator intake, and swap me a virgin 390 block. Could knock a few hundred off the cost. I can't lean into him too hard because he gives me a lot of help.
I probably should have gotten your phone number for today. I went to the FE Race and Reunion and actually got a few minutes to chat with him. He was even busy there entertaining questions but did take the time to talk. I like Barry he seems to be a pretty nice guy.
I have done some sums, and made the deal to swap my block and rotating assembly to my buddy for his virgin 390. When I took into consideration new pistons, reconditioning the rods, and rebalancing, the stroker kit is $300 more. Not a hard decision since he will give me that for the old crank, swap blocks, and pay for the extra machining his block needs.
Now I have only a few questions for Barry before I order parts, including what piston for what compression ratio, flywheel, what lifters, and finally, a cam recommendation.
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