so im going to get my buddies snap on scanner and do a koer to see if anything comes up. but i just bought the truck last night, i just sold my 00 supercab auto, and bought this 01 4 door. anyway on to my problem i bought it from the original owner, he had a new idm put in a month ago and when he got it back from the shop when you push on the go peddal the ses light comes on and goes out when you let off. this only happens when your moving when your parked it on all the time unless you push on the throttle a small amount, it will go out. im not getting any codes or anything everything works, truck runs awsome has good throttle response. thank you for any help

 

so a new fun thing iv got a miss when cold. i think an injector is worn out, im trying to find a shim kit for the poppet valve, to get me by for a couple months. im going to king of the hammers in feb and will put new injectors in before then. so that being said does anyone think that a or multiple injectors failing may result in the code being thrown. i noticed the light comes on only when injectors are firing. when at an idle and firing the ses light is on, moving and i let off the throttle and the injectors are not firing the ses light is off.

 

Without knowing what codes you have, it's difficult to say.

 

I agree. Reading the codes would be the first step in locating the source of the problem.

 

that's the thing its not storing any codes on the ecu?? iv tryed tourqe and my superchips scanner and my hypermax scanner. all three worked and pulled codes from my old powerstroke

 

i have to wait tell monday to use the snap on reader to a koer test being as i think that will be the only way i may get a code

 

iv been reading up on the poppet valve issue, and i know allot of people are against shimming the plate from the poppet valve. but is there a shim kit any were i read last night you have to make your own and tin foil, or shim stock was used? anyone have and insight on this. thank you

 

If you do decide shims are necessary, I wouldn't recommend foil. Aluminum is softer and has a far different coefficient of thermal expansion than steel. It would probably end up loosening up fairly quickly. Check the gap between the armature plate and poppet body, then use a steel feeler gauge of a thickness that will bring the gap out to about 0.0025" - 0.0030" or so to punch/cut a shim out of. That should buy you enough time to get by and get some new injectors on the way.

 

i was thinking about that today about a using a feeler gauge to make the shim out of. thank you for all the help so far, 5 of the 8 injectors are brand new (supposedly) i will call the shop that did the work and verify this and what injectors were replaced if they have it on record. i beleive i have two injectors worn out, i also found out the clutch is going south. when i start building boost around 70mph and have it to the floor the clutch slips but it releases around half way up and seems to grab pretty good. grabs good enough i would have never thought it would slip.

 

can you buy new poppet valves anywhere? that would certainly be a better fix than shimming i would think.

 

so got modius? on it today, ran a buzz test got a p1275 and ran a cct and #8 failed with a p0284 which i read could be a phantom code with the gray cps, I hope. when i first read the codes with a koeo i got a p1271-5 i cleared those and only the p1275 reappeared. im guessing that #5 is the worst off of the injectors but when its cold 1-5 are having a hard time firing. which would explain why is starts so hard dies then starts hard again and will barely move until i come up on boost and it clears up and then just acts like one cyl. is gone until it warms up. i ran a koer came up empty, so im seeing if a local powerestroke mechanic that wheels and deals allot will trade me a set of new stockers for a built 4r100 that i had in my last truck.

 

when i ran the buzz test all the injectors sounded about the same except one was slightly quieter and one was loud as hell.

 

UVCH - that's the most common root cause of everything you've described (other than the slipping clutch). You can use the UVCH link in my signature to confirm.


If that's not it, it could be a #5 solenoid coil - but that's rare. A loud buzz could be a poor connection as well.

 

Again, Rich is Spot On. You most probably have an intermittent Open in the Right Side UVCH or wiring causing the issue.

 

thank you all for the help i really appreciate it. i thought about the uvch but thought that it would act that way all the time no matter if it was cold or hot? i will check on that tomorrow.