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I use the Hedman and a DP. I have zero mounting issues. What troubles me is the heat from the header. On hot days the carb (new Summit 600) acts up and runs on, then won't start, despite having built/installed a heat shield. Also affected is mpg. A cool air intake is needed.
Oh, with that header your starter is now locked in place and can't be removed.
Use studs for the install, minimum 2" length,and crimp nuts, and Mr. Gasket #260, coating studs in head with copper anti seize. Torque to 1/2 what books says first time, moving from center out in counter-clockwise spiral, then go back and torque to spec. Run, let cool to touch, retorque, repeat one time and done forever. I used oem thick washers, and had to grind one side down because header flange and intake flange are diff. thicknesses.
Rather than spend $200+ on a thermal coating for the header, or spending countless hours dickering with thermal wrap for the heater, I'm going to EFI manies with dual 2.25 out.
I use the Hedman and a DP. I have zero mounting issues. What troubles me is the heat from the header. On hot days the carb (new Summit 600) acts up and runs on, then won't start, despite having built/installed a heat shield. Also affected is mpg. A cool air intake is needed.
Oh, with that header your starter is now locked in place and can't be removed.
Use studs for the install, minimum 2" length,and crimp nuts, and Mr. Gasket #260, coating studs in head with copper anti seize. Torque to 1/2 what books says first time, moving from center out in counter-clockwise spiral, then go back and torque to spec. Run, let cool to touch, retorque, repeat one time and done forever. I used oem thick washers, and had to grind one side down because header flange and intake flange are diff. thicknesses.
Rather than spend $200+ on a thermal coating for the header, or spending countless hours dickering with thermal wrap for the heater, I'm going to EFI manies with dual 2.25 out.
Still wondering what your exhaust is going to sound like man!! I wanna redo my exhaust well just take off the cutouts and use a H pipe in its place with the same dual in single out MagnaFlow muffler
Still wondering what your exhaust is going to sound like man!! I wanna redo my exhaust well just take off the cutouts and use a H pipe in its place with the same dual in single out MagnaFlow muffler
Using a two in single out muffler is expensive, imo. I can get two turbo Summit single in/single out for $30 each. But I am still kicking around the idea because I would be a lot easier to go to a single 2.5 out. But... the 2.25" tail pipes are $15 each. The single 2.5" one costs $60. Apples and oranges.
Using a two in single out muffler is expensive, imo. I can get two turbo Summit single in/single out for $30 each. But I am still kicking around the idea because I would be a lot easier to go to a single 2.5 out. But... the 2.25" tail pipes are $15 each. The single 2.5" one costs $60. Apples and oranges.
Yeah tell me about it.... my muffler was 90 or 95 bucks at the time. I wanted to do a DI/DO but I wanted get away from the dual tailpipes.
I do want to add I miss my dual exhaust. The chrome tips just added the muscle truck look to it.
What do you guys recommend for headers to a single?
I have NO IDEA what I'm wanting this time but I'm not sure I like duals at all.
I want noise, but not a dual-rattle can sound.
I was thinking of a decent y pipe then a muffler, maybe, maybe a fat cat instead, and then 3" for a foot or two, it's just not worth running all the way to the back for me. Maybe a side exit? But probably not
Ok gents back on topic.....
After a quick check/test fit it does appear I'll have to trim abit for the header tube to clear as well as the intake. The intake looks like it just barely touches so it won't take too much.
well thanks
as for fancy...not so much....if I was to get fancy then I would have used a a 1/2" ball mill on the perimeter of the cavity, so it wouldn't have a square corners.
I did this on my time at work, on lunch and breaks...so.. not my mill either. Perks of when the boss goes on vacation
I use the Hedman and a DP. I have zero mounting issues. What troubles me is the heat from the header. On hot days the carb (new Summit 600) acts up and runs on, then won't start, despite having built/installed a heat shield. Also affected is mpg. A cool air intake is needed.
Oh, with that header your starter is now locked in place and can't be removed.
Use studs for the install, minimum 2" length,and crimp nuts, and Mr. Gasket #260, coating studs in head with copper anti seize. Torque to 1/2 what books says first time, moving from center out in counter-clockwise spiral, then go back and torque to spec. Run, let cool to touch, retorque, repeat one time and done forever. I used oem thick washers, and had to grind one side down because header flange and intake flange are diff. thicknesses.
Rather than spend $200+ on a thermal coating for the header, or spending countless hours dickering with thermal wrap for the heater, I'm going to EFI manies with dual 2.25 out.
Do you have pictures of the starter situation....having trouble envisioning the issue. Its not that I don't believe you...I just need a better grasp of the whole deal.
well thanks
as for fancy...not so much....if I was to get fancy then I would have used a a 1/2" ball mill on the perimeter of the cavity, so it wouldn't have a square corners.
I did this on my time at work, on lunch and breaks...so.. not my mill either. Perks of when the boss goes on vacation
I made sure to not burn bridges at my old work when I left because there's a bunch of cool machining equipment I still want access to.
That is one fine piece of work! I've had thoughts of using a block like that but since I have a plate and it works I didn't bother.
thanks!
I see merit to using the thinner plate, with not getting so close to the exhaust and such...but was thinking that a bit more capacity might be helpful.
Nice, with a block like that I'd figure a way to plumb up exhaust heat vs. cutting a heater hose. Maybe even take it a step further and combine with an EGR valve. Opens up lots of possibilities.
Threading the two bolt holes on the head side would give more clearance, at least it would with EFI manifolds.
That article is in reference to straight six manifolds because it's hanging out in the air with no heat. "v" type engines receive heat from the Lifter valley.
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