Boost leak?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnat, Ohio
Hi Burroughs,
Only vacuum on these trucks is from a small pump that creates vacuum to run heat and air plenums as well as ESOF hubs for 4x4.
Boost leaks are common. you'll need to check for leaks at the boots and duct work for the air feeding the turbo. here's a link to a thread on how to build an inexpensive testor.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...k-detctor.html
Do you see any soot around the up pipes from the exhaust manifold, especially at the top were they enter the turbo.
There are other reasons for low boost but this would be a good starting point.
Where is your boost gauge plumbed in?
Have you looked at your turbo compressor wheel? Pull the intake off and you can clearly see it? It's very important to feed these engines clean air. If dust and dirt get by your filter it can erode or damage the turbo wheel.
Is that K&N the kind you oil? Not really a prefered filter. May want to look at other options.
Only vacuum on these trucks is from a small pump that creates vacuum to run heat and air plenums as well as ESOF hubs for 4x4.
Boost leaks are common. you'll need to check for leaks at the boots and duct work for the air feeding the turbo. here's a link to a thread on how to build an inexpensive testor.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...k-detctor.html
Do you see any soot around the up pipes from the exhaust manifold, especially at the top were they enter the turbo.
There are other reasons for low boost but this would be a good starting point.
Where is your boost gauge plumbed in?
Have you looked at your turbo compressor wheel? Pull the intake off and you can clearly see it? It's very important to feed these engines clean air. If dust and dirt get by your filter it can erode or damage the turbo wheel.
Is that K&N the kind you oil? Not really a prefered filter. May want to look at other options.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 435
Likes: 2
From: Bloomfield, NM
mouse milk is a brand of mechanical lubricant. The important thing is it stands up very well to high heat. I get it through my company, as an aircraft mechanic we got through ALOT of it. I'll ask my boss where to get some. lube the arm going from right where your intake leads into the turbo, and the other end there is a joint there. make sure you lube that joint. right by where your intake goes into the turbo, there's a small diameter vacuum line going from the bottom of the turbo pedestal, up to a little round vacuum chamber, pull the line of the vacuum chamber and blow some shop air into that chamber (don't spray it down the line). If you're in the right place, that waste gate arm will move. maybe pm rich (tugly) and ask him if he has some pictures that show it. It's hard to describe and I'm not good enough on a computer to do what he can as far as putting fancy little arrows and stuff on pictures to highlight what he's talking about haha hence my profession.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnat, Ohio
mouse milk is a brand of mechanical lubricant. The important thing is it stands up very well to high heat. I get it through my company, as an aircraft mechanic we got through ALOT of it. I'll ask my boss where to get some. lube the arm going from right where your intake leads into the turbo, and the other end there is a joint there. make sure you lube that joint. right by where your intake goes into the turbo, there's a small diameter vacuum line going from the bottom of the turbo pedestal, up to a little round vacuum chamber, pull the line of the vacuum chamber and blow some shop air into that chamber (don't spray it down the line). If you're in the right place, that waste gate arm will move. maybe pm rich (tugly) and ask him if he has some pictures that show it. It's hard to describe and I'm not good enough on a computer to do what he can as far as putting fancy little arrows and stuff on pictures to highlight what he's talking about haha hence my profession.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
You need to connect directly to the turbo intake tube, bypassing the rigid hardware above the CCV doghouse. There is a tee under there that allows air to escape into the CCV.
5-10 PSI is all you need. We had a member take it up to about 20 PSI when the clamp let go, and it left a little "reminder" on him about the perils of being downrange from the cap.
I got my system up to 10 PSI and found a leak on my intake manifold, so no need to go crazy with pressure.
5-10 PSI is all you need. We had a member take it up to about 20 PSI when the clamp let go, and it left a little "reminder" on him about the perils of being downrange from the cap.
I got my system up to 10 PSI and found a leak on my intake manifold, so no need to go crazy with pressure.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnat, Ohio
You need to connect directly to the turbo intake tube, bypassing the rigid hardware above the CCV doghouse. There is a tee under there that allows air to escape into the CCV.
5-10 PSI is all you need. We had a member take it up to about 20 PSI when the clamp let go, and it left a little "reminder" on him about the perils of being downrange from the cap.
I got my system up to 10 PSI and found a leak on my intake manifold, so no need to go crazy with pressure.
5-10 PSI is all you need. We had a member take it up to about 20 PSI when the clamp let go, and it left a little "reminder" on him about the perils of being downrange from the cap.
I got my system up to 10 PSI and found a leak on my intake manifold, so no need to go crazy with pressure.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 435
Likes: 2
From: Bloomfield, NM
any high heat mechanical lubricant should work ok. I hit mine pretty good with brake cleaner before I lubed it to get rid of all the gunk I could before I lubed it. may be worth it to work a fiber bristle brush or wire brush in there to help clean it too.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Sorry... I don't have pictures of that, nor do I have the same hardware under the hood.
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Brett Foote
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 435
Likes: 2
From: Bloomfield, NM
to actuate the wastegate arm, blow shop air in where the red line attaches in the 3rd picture. use something that'll let you slowly increase pressure. in your 2nd picture, you can see the actuator arm right over the turbine housing (exhaust side of the turbo), the end of that is what you should lube.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnat, Ohio
Thank you everyone for so much help! I'm learning more and more about this truck daily. Can you tell me the picture you see the soot in? Also another reason I took so many pictures is to have everyone else's eyes where my naked eye can't see! Please explain it its the downpipe or the header pipes leaking
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 2
From: North Lake Tahoe
In the red circle is the up pipe collector. Doesn't look horrible to me but that is just me.
I would also think your spider pipe to plenum boots are leaking which would cause poor boost. You can barely see the hose clamp saturated in oil spray.
I would also think your spider pipe to plenum boots are leaking which would cause poor boost. You can barely see the hose clamp saturated in oil spray.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
I wouldn't yet rule out a play on light because of the camera angle. A little Simple Green, a little gentle rinsing with a hose, and some air to the turbo intake tube will help determine how loose that clamp is.
I would get some light on that up pipe, as well as everything exhaust related, and really look things over. I had leaks on both my manifolds, the up pipes, and the collector.
I would get some light on that up pipe, as well as everything exhaust related, and really look things over. I had leaks on both my manifolds, the up pipes, and the collector.