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to actuate the wastegate arm, blow shop air in where the red line attaches in the 3rd picture. use something that'll let you slowly increase pressure. in your 2nd picture, you can see the actuator arm right over the turbine housing (exhaust side of the turbo), the end of that is what you should lube.
I lubed the actuator rod and ran shop air through it. Still only 12psi of boost. I'm starting to think that's all she's got. I built a pressure tester and before I got the chance to use it the Mexicans at my shop threw it out or moved it idk so I gotta make another. But here are more pictures I took to show the up pipes, down pipe and rear end pin holes on the pipe.
Passenger up pipe
Bottom of driver side up pipe
Passenger up meets header
Down pipe
Pin hole?
Pin hole
Pin hole
Someone's asked where my boost gauge is plumped in. Here it is.
You have a leaky up pipe at the collector connector. You can ignore the exhaust pipe leaks, they're after the turbo - but it's nice to fix them for the noise factor. That MAP tap is pretty poor, a leak there can read low boost. I'd put in a more solid unit. Those welds on the exhaust look like I installed it. That's not a good thing.
You have a leaky up pipe at the collector connector. You can ignore the exhaust pipe leaks, they're after the turbo - but it's nice to fix them for the noise factor. That MAP tap is pretty poor, a leak there can read low boost. I'd put in a more solid unit. Those welds on the exhaust look like I installed it. That's not a good thing.
I'm still new to buying diesel parts. Maybe point me in the right direction of a good deal on these up pipes
[QUOTE=Tugly;14798406]Here yuh go... [LINK]. That is for late '99 and newer.
I appreciate all the help here, I'll be getting uppies in the spring. For now I need to get the leaf springs I've Had laying in my garage on the truck, I desperately need your knowledge TUgly. Here's the link please list anything you got to help. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-my-f250.html
Update on my 7.3 boost leak. Still haven't got the up pipes but when I did my UVC and 50 cent mod I went ahead and took apart the spider pipe and cleaned all ic boots, that being said when I got everything back together I was sure I had fixed some of my boost leak because I found one of my clamps wasn't even tight.
I also ran the CCV reroute to keep the oil out of my air system. There was not a drop of oil on the inside or outside of any of the connector boots, ic piping, or spider pipe. When I went for the test drive my gauge showed that I can now build 14psi instead of 12 and the boost builds much sooner/quicker. I got back to the shop and popped the hood to make sure everything was still in tact. I found on the outside wall of the bottom spider pipe boots (Orange) there was oil, this was in between the two clamps that are tight. My guess is that the walls of the boots have thinned out and is letting air escape through. Is this a possibility? I'm saving for a set of riffraff boots but I have kids and parts come slowly chime in if you can help me in the meantime of getting 6 new boots.
You need to connect directly to the turbo intake tube, bypassing the rigid hardware above the CCV doghouse. There is a tee under there that allows air to escape into the CCV. 5-10 PSI is all you need. We had a member take it up to about 20 PSI when the clamp let go, and it left a little "reminder" on him about the perils of being downrange from the cap. I got my system up to 10 PSI and found a leak on my intake manifold, so no need to go crazy with pressure.
I experienced a flying test cap with a little too much pressure myself.
Well I ended up getting bellowed up pipes over the past week because replacing the donut gasket turned out to be a flawed plan.. That being said I have a brand new set of bellowed up pipes, fitting everything together was a pain but after a few days of trying I got it all back together, with the exception of needing a new v band clamp on the y pipe - turbo because I cranked it too tight..
But with all this being fixed I still can't build more than 12-14 psi. it builds much quicker and smoother but tops out at 12-14. So I guess next I'm going to order new boots. If the boots don't fix the issue then where should I continue my search?
Well I ended up getting bellowed up pipes over the past week because replacing the donut gasket turned out to be a flawed plan.. That being said I have a brand new set of bellowed up pipes, fitting everything together was a pain but after a few days of trying I got it all back together, with the exception of needing a new v band clamp on the y pipe - turbo because I cranked it too tight..
But with all this being fixed I still can't build more than 12-14 psi. it builds much quicker and smoother but tops out at 12-14. So I guess next I'm going to order new boots. If the boots don't fix the issue then where should I continue my search?
my turbo had a leak where the compressor side bolts to the turbine side…bolts had worked loose…also I don't remember if you mentioned checking the boots right at the ic….they can leak there too
my turbo had a leak where the compressor side bolts to the turbine side…bolts had worked loose…also I don't remember if you mentioned checking the boots right at the ic….they can leak there too
I don't think my turbo is leaking, but I could be wrong. Anyone have torque specifications on the comp side to turbine side bolts? Also yes I've checked all 6 boots, the 2 long ones that attach to minter cooler are in the best condition of all. I'm going to replace the top 4 and we'll go from there.
scottahoe and mpg, I'm off work today so I'll hit Home Depot and buy the essentials for building another leak detector and let everyone know what I find in the next couple days.
There is a picture of my boost gauge plump job, maybe while I'm at Home Depot I'll get a more solid unit. Picture is posted I think on page 2 of this thread
And Tugly.. If I do happen to find a leak at the intake manifolds, what all needs to come out? Your pictures make me think I'm gonna be taking everything apart.
...And Tugly.. If I do happen to find a leak at the intake manifolds, what all needs to come out? Your pictures make me think I'm gonna be taking everything apart.
That is exactly how you get access for pulling an intake manifold. You'll notice I didn't put the original manifolds back in. The billet plenums don't bend at the neck or sealing surface, and they are O-ring sealed. I didn't want to wait for RTV to set to find out if the fix worked, and the factory RTV already failed once. I prefer the one and done method.
I would spray everything (within reason) that would be holding the compressed air with the soapy water. I found a small crack in the spider. I'm sure this is extremely rare but obviously it happens. I just happened to notice bubbles when doing a leak test. I had to wipe it away a few times to realize where it was coming from. [IMG][/IMG]
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chime in if you can help me in the meantime of getting 6 new boots.
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