Boost leak?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
Great catch Juan. If mine leaked there, i think its a no brainer to go the billet route. Your boost now, does it come on hard then slooowwwlly build to the 13*? Reason i ask, is because im seeing exact same boost #'s. Think, mines' leaking there too...
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Following this thread, I'm wondering how much of a leak is too much? Seems that there's a Shiite load of air moving thru our intake, and an amount that makes a tiny bubble wouldn't be a big deal. I'm sure I'm wrong, but compared to the gulping CFMs our motors do, the ratio would be tiny?
Curt
Curt
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
From: Waco, Texas
Following this thread, I'm wondering how much of a leak is too much? Seems that there's a Shiite load of air moving thru our intake, and an amount that makes a tiny bubble wouldn't be a big deal. I'm sure I'm wrong, but compared to the gulping CFMs our motors do, the ratio would be tiny?
Curt
Curt
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Asheville-where weird is
As you know, they are pricey, but they sure do look nice. I would like to purchase a pair for this beast.
Some will say that there is no improvement in performance because the real restriction is in the porting in the heads, while some say it helps the engine have less restriction while breathing by getting more air to where the restriction begins with less effort/loss.
Can some of you guys that have them give your input?
IMO any leak is too much when you are talking compressed air that helps to cool the engine....
Some will say that there is no improvement in performance because the real restriction is in the porting in the heads, while some say it helps the engine have less restriction while breathing by getting more air to where the restriction begins with less effort/loss.
Can some of you guys that have them give your input?
IMO any leak is too much when you are talking compressed air that helps to cool the engine....
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
My experience with this particular boost leak: When doing WOT "test" runs (to collect data... you know), I would see my boost gauge bounce. I later learned this was the intake plenums bleeding a little, then "burping".
Option A ("Ah... I can save some money"):
Option B (Billet, baby, billet):
Omit steps 3,4,6, and 8
Option A ("Ah... I can save some money"):
- Remove intake plenums (2-6 hour process, depending on your tools)
- Scrape plenum mating surface on the heads until sterile.
- Scrape intake plenum mating surface until same
- RTV intake plenum
- Install plenums
- Wait a day
- Leak-test new seal on plenums
- If leak found, repeat as needed.
Option B (Billet, baby, billet):
Omit steps 3,4,6, and 8
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Asheville-where weird is
My experience with this particular boost leak: When doing WOT "test" runs (to collect data... you know), I would see my boost gauge bounce. I later learned this was the intake plenums bleeding a little, then "burping".
Option A ("Ah... I can save some money"):
Option B (Billet, baby, billet):
Omit steps 3,4,6, and 8
Option A ("Ah... I can save some money"):
- Remove intake plenums (2-6 hour process, depending on your tools)
- Scrape plenum mating surface on the heads until sterile.
- Scrape intake plenum mating surface until same
- RTV intake plenum
- Install plenums
- Wait a day
- Leak-test new seal on plenums
- If leak found, repeat as needed.
Option B (Billet, baby, billet):
Omit steps 3,4,6, and 8
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
From: Waco, Texas
My experience with this particular boost leak: When doing WOT "test" runs (to collect data... you know), I would see my boost gauge bounce. I later learned this was the intake plenums bleeding a little, then "burping". Option A ("Ah... I can save some money"):[*]Remove intake plenums (2-6 hour process, depending on your tools)[*]Scrape plenum mating surface on the heads until sterile.[*]Scrape intake plenum mating surface until same[*]RTV intake plenum[*]Install plenums[*]Wait a day[*]Leak-test new seal on plenums[*]If leak found, repeat as needed. Option B (Billet, baby, billet): Omit steps 3,4,6, and 8
I'm thinking option B cuz as much as I like working on my truck, I'd rather do this only once.
I'm thinking billet plenums, bellowed up-pipes, new o-rings for the turbo and pedestal, new boots all around, maybe fix the fuel line that rubs on the passenger side rear. Any other things I should do "while I'm in there?"
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
im with you Juan, on the plenums just sealing up the leak. If gains in performance are made, then cool, but thats not what im after either. I think, depending on your climate year around, is to decide on the EBPV assy, protruding from turbo pedestal...A, rebuild it(install new cartridge) or B, gut it..(installl a new gutted pedestal from R.R., or gut it yourself and plug the hole/s).....also, while in there..rebuild fuel bowl. Them parker sleeves on the fuellines are a bear to do, with "everything" in there.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Well... the boost absolutely holds. The accelerometer in my butt says "So you took all the padding from my right cheek for this?"
I believe this is not a performance mod - this is a reliability mod. It is useful when you find a plenum leak, or you are bracing to bump the boost.
I believe this is not a performance mod - this is a reliability mod. It is useful when you find a plenum leak, or you are bracing to bump the boost.
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
From: Waco, Texas
im with you Juan, on the plenums just sealing up the leak. If gains in performance are made, then cool, but thats not what im after either. I think, depending on your climate year around, is to decide on the EBPV assy, protruding from turbo pedestal...A, rebuild it(install new cartridge) or B, gut it..(installl a new gutted pedestal from R.R., or gut it yourself and plug the hole/s).....also, while in there..rebuild fuel bowl. Them parker sleeves on the fuellines are a bear to do, with "everything" in there.
Yes I'd thought about the EBPV delete. I'll need to read up on that, in not sure what all I'd need. I think I'd just go the new pedestal route.
The PO had a new fuel bowel put in it last summer due to it leaking. Should I still put in new sleeves?
I was thinking of yanking the valve covers while its apart and doing the 50¢ fix.
Anything else?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
Great idea Juan, on the 50 cent. Didnt think of that. While there, look up the injector hold down bolts and rocker arm bolts for retorqing. Tug can chime on this level of expertise..
The sleeves are on the fuel lines , under the nutted cap, at both ends of the lines. A simple fuel bowl swap wont touch these items. Its worth piece of mind in my book, to order the CABINET kit from riffraff....good luck bud and congrats on rig
The sleeves are on the fuel lines , under the nutted cap, at both ends of the lines. A simple fuel bowl swap wont touch these items. Its worth piece of mind in my book, to order the CABINET kit from riffraff....good luck bud and congrats on rig
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
From: Waco, Texas
Great idea Juan, on the 50 cent. Didnt think of that. While there, look up the injector hold down bolts and rocker arm bolts for retorqing. Tug can chime on this level of expertise.. The sleeves are on the fuel lines , under the nutted cap, at both ends of the lines. A simple fuel bowl swap wont touch these items. Its worth piece of mind in my book, to order the CABINET kit from riffraff....good luck bud and congrats on rig
The sleeves are on the fuel lines , under the nutted cap, at both ends of the lines. A simple fuel bowl swap wont touch these items. Its worth piece of mind in my book, to order the CABINET kit from riffraff....good luck bud and congrats on rig Ok cabinet kit, will add to the wish list. Reps coming to you for all this help, I appreciate it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 3
From: Asheville-where weird is
Well... the boost absolutely holds. The accelerometer in my butt says "So you took all the padding from my right cheek for this?"
I believe this is not a performance mod - this is a reliability mod. It is useful when you find a plenum leak, or you are bracing to bump the boost.
I believe this is not a performance mod - this is a reliability mod. It is useful when you find a plenum leak, or you are bracing to bump the boost.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
You will be completely gutting the valley, with only the HPOP staying in place. Depending on your budget and your plans in the future - this is the perfect time to upgrade the turbo and CAC hardware, install the bigger fuel line check valves, rebuild the IPR, and rebuild the fuel bowl (not needed in your case).
The turbo O-rings need to be replaced every single time you pop that loose, so it is not an option.
The turbo O-rings need to be replaced every single time you pop that loose, so it is not an option.
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
From: Waco, Texas
You will be completely gutting the valley, with only the HPOP staying in place. Depending on your budget and your plans in the future - this is the perfect time to upgrade the turbo and CAC hardware, install the bigger fuel line check valves, rebuild the IPR, and rebuild the fuel bowl (not needed in your case).
The turbo O-rings need to be replaced every single time you pop that loose, so it is not an option.
The turbo O-rings need to be replaced every single time you pop that loose, so it is not an option.
Roger that on the o-rings, will do! Thanks!