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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 09:24 AM
  #1  
Silverlake's Avatar
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From: San Diego area
No Cruise Control

Just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3, 6 speed manual LB club cab with 88K miles (can't wait till my 10 days are up so I can add this to my sig).

Anyhoo, the cruise control doesn't work (no light on dash and does nothing when I push the button on the steering wheel). Any pointers on the first place to look for issues? Everything under the hood appears to be unmolested but as this is my first Ford diesel, my eye is untrained.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 09:38 AM
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1. You need to be above 35 mph. Push on then set accl.
2. Does your horn work? If not, its the clock spring.
3. Most common if your horn works is the pressure switch on the master cylinder, located on the front bottom inboard sode of master cylinder.
4. Brake switch located on brake petal.
5. Faulty switch on steering wheel.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 09:48 AM
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There is also a wire connection on top left of motor (mine is a spade connection) and may not be factory, but it was left undone after a visit to the mechanic and cruise didn't work.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 09:55 AM
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Many thanks guys - I'll check it out.
Wow - this IS a great forum
 
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 09:57 AM
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If you can start it without pushing clutch in, Its probably the switch on the clutch. Although you can cut and splice 2 of the wires on the plug to be able to start it without the clutch.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 06:56 PM
  #6  
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Every time my cruise has gone out it has been the switch on the clutch pedal. I used to have a picture of the broken springs inside but my gallery has gone MIA so I can't share it with you.

Get under the dash and look at the rod that comes off the clutch pedal and goes to the firewall. Pull the U shaped clip off the bottom of it and remove the switch from the rod. You should see 1 long spring on each side of the center where the rod goes through. If one or both sides has what looks like several springs stacked on top of each other, time for a new one.

Luckily they're not too expensive.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 07:15 PM
  #7  
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From: San Diego area
Originally Posted by F350-6
Every time my cruise has gone out it has been the switch on the clutch pedal. I used to have a picture of the broken springs inside but my gallery has gone MIA so I can't share it with you.

Get under the dash and look at the rod that comes off the clutch pedal and goes to the firewall. Pull the U shaped clip off the bottom of it and remove the switch from the rod. You should see 1 long spring on each side of the center where the rod goes through. If one or both sides has what looks like several springs stacked on top of each other, time for a new one.

Luckily they're not too expensive.
Thanks - very informative explanation. I have it at a shop right now having them take a look at the front end (wandering issues). The cruise is on the list I gave them, we'll see what they discover.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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They're working on fixing the gallery issue. Here's a picture of broken springs in the clutch pedal position sensor from the first time my cruise went out.



I've gone though a couple because at 488,000 miles, you tend to push the clutch pedal in once or twice.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 08:12 AM
  #9  
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There was a brake pressure switch (on the master cylinder) recall years ago. My recall repair failed, and I had to buy a more recent version of it. This fixed the cruise control. I believe I confirmed the brake pressure switch failed by reading the PID with AutoEnginuity, but I can't remember for sure how I confirmed it.








 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 07:08 PM
  #10  
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The shop tested the steering wheel "on-off" switch for the cruise and it failed.
Quote to fix is 195
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 07:25 PM
  #11  
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If in deed it is the switch.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cruise-Control-Switches-Ford-E150-E250-E350-E450-F150-F250-F350-F450-/111479714687?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19f4b5737f&vxp=mtr
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 07:56 PM
  #12  
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Thanks,
The link is much appreciated and letting a "shop" do this work is seriously tearing me up.
I'ts all about priorities and without going into details, this time I'm sticking to the plan.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 08:29 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Silverlake
Thanks,
The link is much appreciated and letting a "shop" do this work is seriously tearing me up.
I'ts all about priorities and without going into details, this time I'm sticking to the plan.
Then just make sure that the shop guarantees that the switch replacement will fix the issue. Tell them they don't get to come back later and say the CPP is broken too and that will be an additional charge.

It's been too long since I've run a switch test to remember if the CPP would throw it's own code or if it leads you on a wild chase. I do remember removing my switches because I thought that was my failure the first time. I just don't remember if I ran the switch test before or after I pulled the airbag to inspect the switches.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 09:04 PM
  #14  
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Ive got an extra used switch that works if u want it send me your address, ill throw it in the mail to ya, takes all of 5 min. To replace it
 
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 09:07 PM
  #15  
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So no messing with the airbag?
Gotta admit, can't beat the offer.
 
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