While I was chasing a loose ground wire and other potential causes of my CPS brain-fart I took the dash off today.
Main steps:
1) start unclipping near the headlight switch. Reach in behind and there is a little clip to undo the headlight switch and withdraw the until out of the front of the dash. Unclip the 2 harness plugs and put the switch to one side.

2) work you way across the top of the dash being carefull not to break anything

3) Reach in behind the 4WD switch - lightly squeeze the 2 pairs of clips together to be able to withdraw the switch out of the front of the dash - unplug and put to one side

4) Reach in behind the 12V socket and unplug the harness

5) the dash can be fully unclipped now and put to one side


As you can see, you can access the instrument panel - the perspex cover comes off, then 4 7mm bolts holding it down. To lift the cluster out the gear position indicator needs to be unclipped.

I fitted chokes on the earths and the rear camera leads.

 

Great work Simon, it looks and sounds like it's a lot easier than
getting behind the dash on every other vehicle I have had the
misfortune to have to do this on.

I am now much less put off digging into mine. I have had
no luck tracing the current leak that I have so behind the
dash is the last remaining area to check out.

It will give me a chance to clean up the wiring mess the
previous owner left me.

 

When I did it, the only time consuming part was going over everything with a damp cloth, I don't know about your truck Simon, but I had a lot of dust on everything.

But it is a straight-forward job. Those of you with a Super/Regular cab will also need to unplug the airbag switch that's found on the dash.

 

Nice Write Up,
Has anyone done a How to take off a Door Trim
My power window on the driver side is going down slow


Cheers,
Patchy

 

To remove the door trim, pop the red door light out. Use a flat screw driver to lift the window button panel up, and disconnect all the electrical connectors.
Pull the trim piece that sits on the a-pillar by the mirror off (you have to pull hard).
Then there are 2 7mm bolts, one behind the red door light and one behind the panel that houses the window button that you have removed, undo both.
Now you can lift the door panel up, and it should come off. As soon as you have lifted it off the mounts, you can remove the connector for the red door light and pull the door panel away.

 

Good write up Simon, the worst of that job is not breaking anything other than that it's all big parts and fairly straight forward , well done mate.

Have you solved your CPS problems?
What was wrong with the grey re-call CPS, did it fail as well?

 

CPS - my money was on the electrical interference from the wiper motor problem. I put those gray barrel 'chokes' on the CPS harness and all the earth leads I could find. I'll have to wait for another long drive in the rain to say whether the chokes have fixed the problem.

 

Just turn the truck on and put the hose on the screen with the wipers on and see what happens.
Others have fitted chokes to each wire on the wiper motor and a large one around the whole harness and one on each the feed wire and ground wire and has fixed there problem with stalling , they didn't take the dash cover off to get to the ground wires under there , there was no need.

 

Hi, I did find a loose earth behind the dash.
After I took a look at the wiring diagram it seemed to indicate that the earth wire from the wiper circuit came off the wiper stalk-switch - so it would be behind the dash somewhere.

I couldn't see any obvious wiper motor harness heading in the direction of where the wiper motor is from under the bonnet - if fact I wasn't able to positively find the wiper motor harness at all.

I needed to replace some failed LED dash lighting in any case so I was killing 2 birds with the one stone regarding taking the dash off.

I think testing will be a lot tougher that just running the wipers and waiting for a stall.

My one stall happened on in a rainy trip going downhill, backing off in 2nd at maybe 1500 revs. If it was electrical interference, the frequency emissions from the wiper motor and the CPS signal would have to somehow line up in some sort of standing wave formation to get the self-cancel to create the stall. I guess I could lift the wipers off the screen and find a long downhill to descend in 2nd with the wiper motor going to try to simulate the same conditions. Then if it doesn't stall it is either fixed, or I didn't quite replicate the same conditions again. Who knows?

 

I had a bit of a play with the truck today, and it rained - quite rare in the 'Berra!

Fitted a boot over the steering damper (Thanks Blue 7.3). Had the dash off again to replace 3 more illumination LEDs - they're all working now.

Ran a couple of errands in the rain, varying the wiper speed and engine speed. All sweet! Could be a co-incidence, or the chokes on the CPS harness and numerous earth wires under the bonnet and under the dash have done the trick.

 

Good to hear the CPS problem is solved , lets hope it doesn't return.
Thanks for posting your findings that will help others .