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I just bought a 71 F100. For some reason the previous owner tach welded the vacuum advance so it couldn't move. Hence no power. Cruises fine but can't get on it. So,why would you do this?!?! I'm a motorcycle guy and I'm new to old trucks. Just wondering. I ordered a new distributor and will put it in soon.
Vacuum advance is a bit misunderstood by many (myself included) If you're lacking power, that ain't it, tho.
Before you order another dizzy think about what you're using the truck for, what you want it to do - and have it curved for that application. You can do it yourself, tho it's tedious.
Basically most people want lighter springs and less total mechanical advance than stock from factory, but compensate for that and bump up the crank timing by quite a lot.
You'll have power then compared to a stock setup. The total amount of timing won't change a whole lot, but all of the mechanical timing will come "all in" well before 3000 RPM.
Vacuum advance is mainly for part throttle drivability and fuel economy, especially on the highway. Remember drag racing dizzys don't even have a vacuum canister or is disconnected, and they have plenty of power. Taking the time to dial in the distributor and timing is "free", many people leave a LOT of performance on the table. Take the time to learn the "magic" behind the brains of your engine - you'll be glad you did! Hope this helps.
I just bought a 71 F100. For some reason the previous owner tach welded the vacuum advance so it couldn't move. Hence no power. Cruises fine but can't get on it. So,why would you do this?!?! I'm a motorcycle guy and I'm new to old trucks. Just wondering. I ordered a new distributor and will put it in soon.
Most all replacement vacuum advances can be lock out by removing the rubber hose an insert a small allen wrench, I think it's 1/16" maybe.
If it's the old OEM one with a nut head end with a nipple, then it adjust by inserting or removing the washers. These type have mostly failed by now and replaced with allen wrench adjustment one..
You don't say what's going on with your motor just saying you can't get on or no not any power..
What's it doing ? falls on it's nose giving it the gas?
Honestly. I haven't driven the truck yet. This is how the man described it to me. I will drive it this eavening and let you know. He says you can't get a lot of power like going up hills but once your at speed you can cruise down the highway all day. For 3 grand it doesn't matter if the motors bad. The truck is immaculate!!! I'll put a new motor in it if I have to.
Let's hope so. A guy on my crew (I'm a firefighter) is also a mechanic. He's coming over to help put the new distributor in tonight. I'll see what he thinks. Any other ideas would be great.
Well, congrats on your new truck. If you are getting an Immaculate 71 Ford Truck, that's great. You'll have fun tweeking the motor. Could need a Carb Rebuild? (just guessing). Post some pics of your new family member if you get a chance.
I'm also wondering if elevation above sea level may be playing a factor. I don't know where in Tn. The truck came from but I live in the Catskills and we are a high elevation. Which would be an air/fuel issue. I pick up the truck today. We shall see. If I knew how I dad a pic. Using my phone so I'll have to figure that out.
What engine, transmission and differential does it have. could be a bad combination for power but good for flatland cruising. Also if you are changing distributors anyway upgrade to electronic ignition. I like duraspark a lot of people seem to like pertronics
If it's a fe=360,390 motor watch out that the oil pump drive rod don't drop into the pan while pulling the dizzy out. Then your screwed until it's replaced.
So, I would wait until you trouble shoot the problem first..
These fe truck motors our not ez to remove the pan unless it's a 4x4.
Orich
Elevation plays a big part in robbing power. The engine output is reduced by about 18% for every 5000ft in elevation because the atmosphere is less dense. There just isn't as much oxygen available.
I live at 7200ft and I run the base timing up at about 18 deg BTDC.
So..... Finally drove the truck. Runs like s@%#. Number 8 cylinder isn't firing. Has spark to the plug wire off the distributor. I'm assuming its a roached valve. I don't think my distributor is bad. It's been converted to electric. I think I have a carb problem. It's a factory motor craft two barrel with the choke heater. It idles just fine but if I step on the gas it bogs right out. Same while driving. Accelerator pump works great. Shooting gas on both sides. Gotta get my hands on a compression tester and a carb rebuild kit. Any other suggestions would be great. Thanks guys.
Very new to this. Don't even know what to do with it. I have a 68 Harley and can work on that no problem but this old truck may be over my head a bit. I will learn though!!!!
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