Distributor ?
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 63
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So I just ordered exhaust manifold gaskets. They come in pairs. I've read a few things online and multiple guys have said they've doubled them up. This doesn't seem good to me but what's your guys thought on this?
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,061
Likes: 39
From: Laramie, WY
Using a vacum guage - with it connected to the manifold it will either hold steady or flutter.
The flutter indicates a bad valve or valves. The flutter is caused by the cylinder pressure leaking past the valve back into the intake system.
If it is steady look at how much vacum you have at idle. You should be able to acheive at least 15"Hg. You can watch the reading and adjust the distributor timiming to find the highest reading possible. A worn out engine will make less vacum...but so will a poorly tuned engine. If the vacum level is low you will need to do a compression test.
A compression test will pin point which cylinder is having a problem but it won't tell you if it's the bottom end or the head. That is why a vacum guage helps.
The flutter indicates a bad valve or valves. The flutter is caused by the cylinder pressure leaking past the valve back into the intake system.
If it is steady look at how much vacum you have at idle. You should be able to acheive at least 15"Hg. You can watch the reading and adjust the distributor timiming to find the highest reading possible. A worn out engine will make less vacum...but so will a poorly tuned engine. If the vacum level is low you will need to do a compression test.
A compression test will pin point which cylinder is having a problem but it won't tell you if it's the bottom end or the head. That is why a vacum guage helps.
I searched the elevation for Oneonta and found 1300ft, so you should be able to acheive 18"Hg on your vacum guage at idle.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,061
Likes: 39
From: Laramie, WY
No problem...a picture would help if I could point. You are looking for anything that is connected to manifold vacum all the time. The front of the carb might have two ports, one on each side. The distributer vacum advance usually is connected to one, and that is ported vacum. Meaning it is above the throttle plates and doesn't see any vacum until you open the throttle. If there is another port on the other side just remove the cap or line that is on it and put your finger over it with the engine running. If it is going straight to the manifold you will feel the vacum.
There also might be one at the back of the carb that you can use, just do the same test with your finger. If you have enough adapters you can use the point where the power brake booster connects to the manifold (if you have power brakes).
Otherwise just look around the manifold and there might be a pipe threaded plug you can remove and add a fitting to that spot.
There also might be one at the back of the carb that you can use, just do the same test with your finger. If you have enough adapters you can use the point where the power brake booster connects to the manifold (if you have power brakes).
Otherwise just look around the manifold and there might be a pipe threaded plug you can remove and add a fitting to that spot.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2014
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Great. Thanks. No power breaks. There is a hose with a bolt plugging it just sitting there. I have no idea what it's for. I don't know how to post a pic and I only have my phone to go to the forum. Don't think I can upload a photo with my phone. Anyways....tonight after I put the new distributor in ill look around and do the test. Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
You want to connect to a source of vacuum that is always "on". Typically an aftermarket carburetor might have a source of timed or "spark" vacuum for distributor advance, and a source of manifold vacuum (below the throttle plates). The latter is what you want for the gauge. Or any source of vacuum on the manifold itself.
While a vacuum gauge is useful, I'm not going to try and memorize what all the indications mean. A quick internet search like "using a vacuum gauge" should keep you busy with familiarization for a while (along with the directions that come with the gauge.)
For such a simple tool, and cheap too, they are invaluable for adjusting carburetors and ignition timing. Aka "poor man's Sun machine."
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
While a vacuum gauge is useful, I'm not going to try and memorize what all the indications mean. A quick internet search like "using a vacuum gauge" should keep you busy with familiarization for a while (along with the directions that come with the gauge.)
For such a simple tool, and cheap too, they are invaluable for adjusting carburetors and ignition timing. Aka "poor man's Sun machine."
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,061
Likes: 39
From: Laramie, WY
Great. Thanks. No power breaks. There is a hose with a bolt plugging it just sitting there. I have no idea what it's for. I don't know how to post a pic and I only have my phone to go to the forum. Don't think I can upload a photo with my phone. Anyways....tonight after I put the new distributor in ill look around and do the test. Thanks
Good luck! I'm heading out for Montana later today but there a lot of others who can help you on here, they've all helped be too.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,061
Likes: 39
From: Laramie, WY
I'm fairly new to these Ford engines, mainly built Chebys and motorcycle engines in the past. From my experience it's only necessary to compensate for a warped manifold. I would just put a single in the first time, maybe double up in the future if needed. It's probably just leaking from age.
There is a copper based high temperature anti-sieze that works much better than regular silver anti-sieze on exhaust parts.
Have fun and take your time, old exhaust manifolds can be a real pain. Slowly move stuck bolts back and forth rather than putting the muscle to them to get them out. Sometimes I even have to soak them and come back in few hours to try again.
There is a copper based high temperature anti-sieze that works much better than regular silver anti-sieze on exhaust parts.
Have fun and take your time, old exhaust manifolds can be a real pain. Slowly move stuck bolts back and forth rather than putting the muscle to them to get them out. Sometimes I even have to soak them and come back in few hours to try again.