"How-To" Install bedsides
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 275
Likes: 1
From: Lexington Park, MD
That is an absolutely amazing looking truck. You do wonderful work.
What is the name of the glue you used and where did you buy it? Are you still satisfied with it after a few months?
I'm thinking of going this route for a couple repairs myself.
Thanks!
What is the name of the glue you used and where did you buy it? Are you still satisfied with it after a few months?
I'm thinking of going this route for a couple repairs myself.
Thanks!
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 296
You do some amazing work!
There is something that bothers me every time I fill up at gas station that maybe you know the answer to.
The bushing for my OEM gas cap tether has disintegrated and every one at the wrecking yard is just as bad.
Have you found a source to replace this bushing to keep the originality?
There is something that bothers me every time I fill up at gas station that maybe you know the answer to.
The bushing for my OEM gas cap tether has disintegrated and every one at the wrecking yard is just as bad.
Have you found a source to replace this bushing to keep the originality?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,949
Likes: 7
I did the same with mine. A month after getting my truck painted I found a scratch from the cap, and I cut them both off 5 minutes later.
New User
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Inner wheel liner
I been asked many times what is involved with replacing bed sides. So I figured I would do a step by step procedure an show what all is involved. I live in the North East and my trucks get driven in all weather conditions so I go the EXTRA MILE to make sure the repair lasts a LONG TIME. I may be going overboard for the southern guys, but If you live anywhere near salt and plan on keeping the truck for any amount of time, I HIGHLY recommend doing doing exactly this.
1st.
Take the bed off the truck(unhook wiring, fuel fillers and 6 bolts holding the bed down. Remove exhaust shields from the underside of the bed and set on a stable level set of horses.
2nd.
Find the spot welds that hold the skins on to the bed. There are A LOT approx 80 spot welds on a short bed. You will need a 1/8" bit and 3/8" spot weld bit.(inner lip{30}, wheel well{15}, front edge of bed{15}, rear tailgate opening{15}), small lip under tail light{5})
Spot weld bit
3rd.
Drill into the center of each spot weld with the 1/8" bit, but do NOT drill all the way thru. Just make a dimple for the centering bit of the spot bit to stay in place.
4th.
After putting the dimple in each weld, use the Spot drill to "cut out" each spot weld. Again, you do NOT want to go all the way thru. Just thru the outer skin, NOT the inner structure.
5th.
You need a body chisel to cut thru the remainder of the weld. You just get between the panel and hammer it thru the weld. If you have to hammer really hard, you did not drill out the spot weld correctly. If you did, the chisel will cut right thru. Once all the welds are cut, you can remove the side. Same procedure for each side.
(NOTE, mine has the huge well well opening because I converted my try to a dually)
6th.
Now this is my perogative but again, I drive in the elements and I want it to last I sandblast the ENTIRE underside of the bed, The inner wheel well arches and associated hardware(note drain holes added to the inner arches to allow for drainage AND accessibility to clean. I remove the arch completely to do a better job of cleaning and painting)
1st.
Take the bed off the truck(unhook wiring, fuel fillers and 6 bolts holding the bed down. Remove exhaust shields from the underside of the bed and set on a stable level set of horses.
2nd.
Find the spot welds that hold the skins on to the bed. There are A LOT approx 80 spot welds on a short bed. You will need a 1/8" bit and 3/8" spot weld bit.(inner lip{30}, wheel well{15}, front edge of bed{15}, rear tailgate opening{15}), small lip under tail light{5})
Spot weld bit
3rd.
Drill into the center of each spot weld with the 1/8" bit, but do NOT drill all the way thru. Just make a dimple for the centering bit of the spot bit to stay in place.
4th.
After putting the dimple in each weld, use the Spot drill to "cut out" each spot weld. Again, you do NOT want to go all the way thru. Just thru the outer skin, NOT the inner structure.
5th.
You need a body chisel to cut thru the remainder of the weld. You just get between the panel and hammer it thru the weld. If you have to hammer really hard, you did not drill out the spot weld correctly. If you did, the chisel will cut right thru. Once all the welds are cut, you can remove the side. Same procedure for each side.
(NOTE, mine has the huge well well opening because I converted my try to a dually)
6th.
Now this is my perogative but again, I drive in the elements and I want it to last I sandblast the ENTIRE underside of the bed, The inner wheel well arches and associated hardware(note drain holes added to the inner arches to allow for drainage AND accessibility to clean. I remove the arch completely to do a better job of cleaning and painting)
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
I clamp the outer edge and use self taping screws to hold it to the inner bed wheel well. Once the adhesive is setup, the clamps and crews are removed. The burs are touched up with a grinder and the screw holes are filled with panel bond
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