"How-To" Install bedsides
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Everything is going to be glued. No welding here
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
panel source?
Where did you source the panels? Lmc, Ford?
Thanks
Jim
Thanks
Jim
If I didn't have to sandblast the bed liner off the bottom side of the bed.....
1 hour to remove bed
2.5 hours to remove both sides
2 hour to sandblast underside of bed
2 hours to POR and paint bottom side of bed
2 hour to prep bed sides
1 hour to prime & paint bed sides
___________
10.5 so far
Material
$406 drivers side skin
$438 passenger side skin
$38 1 qt POR15
$106 for 3 quarts of epoxy prime and hardener
$47 for gallon of chassis black
$68 for 2 quarts of color
$130 for gallon of clear w hardener
$36 for 300lbs of sand
_____________________________
$1269 so far
1 hour to remove bed
2.5 hours to remove both sides
2 hour to sandblast underside of bed
2 hours to POR and paint bottom side of bed
2 hour to prep bed sides
1 hour to prime & paint bed sides
___________
10.5 so far
Material
$406 drivers side skin
$438 passenger side skin
$38 1 qt POR15
$106 for 3 quarts of epoxy prime and hardener
$47 for gallon of chassis black
$68 for 2 quarts of color
$130 for gallon of clear w hardener
$36 for 300lbs of sand
_____________________________
$1269 so far
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 4
From: Charlestown, RI
Nice work, as usual!
Brad, should the same process be used for new fenders, radiator supports, and welded in repair areas? Scuff the e-coat, followed by epoxy primer? On the interior surfaces of your bedsides, where they're epoxy primed, are you planning on putting a topcoat over the primer?
Brad, should the same process be used for new fenders, radiator supports, and welded in repair areas? Scuff the e-coat, followed by epoxy primer? On the interior surfaces of your bedsides, where they're epoxy primed, are you planning on putting a topcoat over the primer?
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
NOT LMC. I REFUSE to buy their JUNK
I tried to get them from Ford, but there was one ONE In the country and it was in Alaska. Don't forget, Ford was quite a bit more. Like about 1000 for one and 1200 for the other.
I went thru NPD for the sides and Jeffs Bronco Graveyard for the inner arches
Yes. The e-coat is NOT a moisture barrier. So once wet, it does not take long for rust to start.
As for the inside of my bed skins, after prime they got painted with chassis black. It is not for looks, but to match the rest of the underside of the truck(was all sandblasted, POR15 then top coated with tractor black) but add another layer of protective material
I tried to get them from Ford, but there was one ONE In the country and it was in Alaska. Don't forget, Ford was quite a bit more. Like about 1000 for one and 1200 for the other.
I went thru NPD for the sides and Jeffs Bronco Graveyard for the inner arches
Nice work, as usual!
Brad, should the same process be used for new fenders, radiator supports, and welded in repair areas? Scuff the e-coat, followed by epoxy primer? On the interior surfaces of your bedsides, where they're epoxy primed, are you planning on putting a topcoat over the primer?
Brad, should the same process be used for new fenders, radiator supports, and welded in repair areas? Scuff the e-coat, followed by epoxy primer? On the interior surfaces of your bedsides, where they're epoxy primed, are you planning on putting a topcoat over the primer?
As for the inside of my bed skins, after prime they got painted with chassis black. It is not for looks, but to match the rest of the underside of the truck(was all sandblasted, POR15 then top coated with tractor black) but add another layer of protective material
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 4
From: Charlestown, RI
Yes. The e-coat is NOT a moisture barrier. So once wet, it does not take long for rust to start.
As for the inside of my bed skins, after prime they got painted with chassis black. It is not for looks, but to match the rest of the underside of the truck(was all sandblasted, POR15 then top coated with tractor black) but add another layer of protective material
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,949
Likes: 7
Looks good, once again you did another great job.
But I do have a question about the POR15. I'm planning on coating my frame, the underside of my bed, and the bedsides while they are being replaced at my cousins body shop with POR15 this year, do you ever use the "Prep & Ready" that they recommend? Or is it not needed?
But I do have a question about the POR15. I'm planning on coating my frame, the underside of my bed, and the bedsides while they are being replaced at my cousins body shop with POR15 this year, do you ever use the "Prep & Ready" that they recommend? Or is it not needed?
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Looks good, once again you did another great job.
But I do have a question about the POR15. I'm planning on coating my frame, the underside of my bed, and the bedsides while they are being replaced at my cousins body shop with POR15 this year, do you ever use the "Prep & Ready" that they recommend? Or is it not needed?
But I do have a question about the POR15. I'm planning on coating my frame, the underside of my bed, and the bedsides while they are being replaced at my cousins body shop with POR15 this year, do you ever use the "Prep & Ready" that they recommend? Or is it not needed?
Just remember, POR doe NOT go over painted surfaces, ONLY rusted or sandblasted surfaces
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Got some more done tonight. Not as much as I wanted but some.
Prepped the entire bed for both sides. Also prepped one side and fitted it. Then glued it on. I ended up using 31 vise grips and about 10 screws for the impossible to reach spots.
Remember. I cleaned every surface where the panel boning adhesive was to go, to BARE metal. i also made sure it was course(36 grit if possible)
I put the glue on BOTH pieces to be bonded then level it out with my finger(covered in latex glove). That makes sure there is NO BARE METAL
It will set up and tomorrow if I have time I will unclamp it
Prepped the entire bed for both sides. Also prepped one side and fitted it. Then glued it on. I ended up using 31 vise grips and about 10 screws for the impossible to reach spots.
Remember. I cleaned every surface where the panel boning adhesive was to go, to BARE metal. i also made sure it was course(36 grit if possible)
I put the glue on BOTH pieces to be bonded then level it out with my finger(covered in latex glove). That makes sure there is NO BARE METAL
It will set up and tomorrow if I have time I will unclamp it
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Paullina IA
Brad - nice work as always. Looks great. Great write up on doing bedsides. Do you put any of the lower braces in at this stage to help fit or steady anything? Also when your fitting it how do you mark it so that it glues on in the exact same position it fit into?
Thanks
Jeremy
Thanks
Jeremy
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Brad - nice work as always. Looks great. Great write up on doing bedsides. Do you put any of the lower braces in at this stage to help fit or steady anything? Also when your fitting it how do you mark it so that it glues on in the exact same position it fit into?
Thanks
Jeremy
Thanks
Jeremy
Also, IF you inner arches are still in, you bond these at the same time
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 856
Likes: 3
From: Livonia, MI
Having said that, I currently am using the POR15 just to refinish an old engine crane I picked up, so to me, it's not as important. When I do take care of my wheel arches on the truck, I'll be following POR15's exact instructions and recommendations - which means using the prep and ready if it says to.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
The working time on the glue I used on this was 75min.
But they also make a 5 and 15 min glue too.
I am guessing with the humidity, the glue is taking longer to cure. I will let it sit clamped another 24hours
But they also make a 5 and 15 min glue too.
I am guessing with the humidity, the glue is taking longer to cure. I will let it sit clamped another 24hours
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Long over due update
The bed skins had a couple small dings in them, nothing big at all. I think I used a Golf ball size about of body filler. Then laid down some 2k primer. In the one pic, you can see the clamps still holding the one inner arch in place after gluing
then west sanded
White
White taped off and and silver sprayed
Untaped getting ready for clear
3 coats of clear And bugs
Wet sanded and buffed. Still need final polishing
The bed skins had a couple small dings in them, nothing big at all. I think I used a Golf ball size about of body filler. Then laid down some 2k primer. In the one pic, you can see the clamps still holding the one inner arch in place after gluing
then west sanded
White
White taped off and and silver sprayed
Untaped getting ready for clear
3 coats of clear And bugs
Wet sanded and buffed. Still need final polishing
