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I got a 79 f150 2wd with a 302 and I removed the valve covers today to replace the gaskets and saw a good amount of sludge on the top of the covers and on top of the valves, now I expected pretty much what I got, not outrageous but its there. Oil on the dipstick looks good by the way. my plan of attack is to run the truck, drive it around the yard a bit get it to normal operating temp then drain the oil and change the filter. Any more I could do besides maybe run a couple more quarts through while its draining to clean it out a bit? Also what do you recommend for oil in the truck? Thanks
Sounds good. A lot of these engines are going to have sludge in them, especially the ones that received less than "preventive" maintenance.
One thing I wouldn't do is run engine flush through it. Just about everytime I've seen someone use the flush, the engine loses oil pressure soon after. The sludge has broken free and clogged up the oil pump inlet screen.
Agree frequent oil changes are the best way to clean it safely. I run diesel oil in my dent because it has zinc for the flat tappet cam... also high detergent. I'd go ahead and run conventional Shell Rotella T with a 500-1000 mile oil change interval for a couple rounds.
Use Rotella-T oil because it has an adequate Zinc content; you have a flat tappet camshaft
I wouldread up on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_dithiophosphate and search the forms...https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1318608-motor-oil.html and https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1305467-engine-sludge-on-older-v8s.html are commonly discussed topics.
Last edited by 406angler; Jul 3, 2014 at 06:26 PM.
Reason: hyperlink issues
The "old school" way I have used is to add a quart of automatic transmission fluid to a fresh oil change and run it for a while.( I've heard anything from a few minutes to a few days, maybe somone else can be more specific ) I don't know how it compares to the commercially available engine flushes but it seems to work. I leave mine in for a day or so - doesn't do any harm.
lots of people have used ATF in their oil it's higher detergent oil, and can cause the carbon/sludge buildup to dislodge and create leaks due to years of the engine seals and bearings forming around the buildup, but it's worth a shot if you're willing to accept the risk. the above quote and the hyperlink are from the same post; it's a fairly discussed topic. I wouldn't run my engine for more than an hour with 1qt of atf added to the oil, and certainly wouldn't do it unless I was on the verge of tearing it down anyways.
lots of people have used ATF in their oil it's higher detergent oil, and can cause the carbon/sludge buildup to dislodge and create leaks due to years of the engine seals and bearings forming around the buildup, but it's worth a shot if you're willing to accept the risk. the above quote and the hyperlink are from the same post; it's a fairly discussed topic. I wouldn't run my engine for more than an hour with 1qt of atf added to the oil, and certainly wouldn't do it unless I was on the verge of tearing it down anyways.
The "old school" way to flush engine was to use Kerosene.
Ratio of 1 qt out of the 6 and let it set running at high idle for a half hour or so. (Do not drive truck or put engine under load.) Drain and fill with 6 qts motor oil, install new filter and drive as normal.
I might be going against the norm here but.. I dont think running heavy weight diesel oil in a gasoline engine is a very good idea. Gas engines like our have oiling systems designed for 5w-30 or similar weight oil. An extra viscous oil wont flow as quickly and could leave parts dry.
High detergent oils are available for standard weight gas oil. Zinc additives for camshafts are also available. Detergents like seafoam can be added to the oil for cleaning.
I use the Kerosene method and suggest if you do it you buy multiple filters as it will strip the inside of the motor clean, it's still common practice (at least where I grew up) on large diesel engines.
If you have the valve covers off you should remove as much of the sludge as you can before reinstalling, a shop vac while you use a brass bristle brush can remove a lot of it and clean the underside of the covers while they are off.
Do you have only sludge or do you also have buildup of crystalized oil? If you have hardened oil chunks then I would get as much out as you can with the covers off and NOT flush the motor, just do regular oil changes while you shop for a new motor or collect the parts to rebuild yours.
I might be going against the norm here but.. I dont think running heavy weight diesel oil in a gasoline engine is a very good idea. Gas engines like our have oiling systems designed for 5w-30 or similar weight oil. An extra viscous oil wont flow as quickly and could leave parts dry.
High detergent oils are available for standard weight gas oil. Zinc additives for camshafts are also available. Detergents like seafoam can be added to the oil for cleaning.
"Back in the day" there were no common 5w-xx oils. 10W30 or 10W40 or straight 30 for warm weather were the norm. With new'ish bearing clearances in hot weather or cold weather a Dent era engine would probably do fine on 10W30. With some wear, 40 weight (10W40, 15w40) helps maintain oil pressure and protection. Bottom line, unless it is really cold, 15w40 should work great.