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I took my valve covors off and the valve train is pretty gunked up. Some of my push rods are not getting any oil at all. I'm taking the valve train off and cleaning them real good and putting back on. But I need to now what kind of motor flush would be the best to use, or do you guys have any old school methods of flushing a motor out. I'm up for any help right now. Thanks
The "old school" way I have used is to add a quart of automatic transmission fluid to a fresh oil change and run it for a while.( I've heard anything from a few minutes to a few days, maybe somone else can be more specific ) I don't know how it compares to the commercially available engine flushes but it seems to work. I leave mine in for a day or so - doesn't do any harm.
That or run a high detergent oil for awhile. But in either case keep a close eye on your oil pressure gauge. If the stuff starts to break-up in chunks it could plug the oil pump screen.
I'm by no means promoting this method, I just think its kinda cool cause me and my co-worker were just talking about this this morning. The story goes that his uncle(yeah I know, my friends uncles sisters brother in law) would clean engines of sludge and gunk by draining the oil and running the engine using diesel or kerosene as oil!!! supposedly by idleing the engine for three or four minutes and then imediately draining the "oil", at which point the sludge comes out the drain hole. Crazy? Maybe, but diesel is oil. Not so sure I'd try it but it sounds plausible... use at your own risk... or don't
I have heard and actually tried this, with luck, put a cup of diesel fuel in the crank case before you change the oil, start it and let it get to operating temp and then change the oil. I had some sticky lifters and this cleared it right up. Got alot of crap out of the pan to. The Gunk brand of motor flush they sell at Wally World is basically diesel anyways. Just my 2 cents.
seriously? guess there was some truth to it. wonder what would happen if you actually did run your motor with five quarts of No.2 in the crankcase. I'd be more open to the one cup method but I'm not at all certain
I have heard of people doing the 5 quart thing to. I had a buddy that tried that in a 86 Trans Am. He was pulling the motor to rebuild it and thought he would run the five quarts through it. He made the mistake of trying to drive it instead of just letting it idle. The cam and rod bearings did not like that. Thats why when I did it I didn't put in more than a cup or two. Not as easy to screw @#$% up that way. But it sure cleans up nice. Biggest piece of advice is if you do the diesel method DONT DRIVE THE vehicle until you change the oil.
I bought the Gunk brand of motor flush at Wal Mart. 2 of them to be exact. It says right on the bottle NOT to drive your car or truck. It's suppose to be a 5 min flush but I figured it would hurt to let it stay in there alittle long as long as I watched my temp and oil gauge. My dad said he has put some kerosene in motors to before to clean them up on the inside. I'm going to try this tomorrow and see what happens. I just hate to have to pull the oil pan off while the motor is in the truck. BTW do you have to take the motor supports lose to pull the pan or will it come lose the way it is. Thanks for all the help guys. If you come up with anymore just let me know.
Just curious as to what this does to rings or other wear items. Ive been hesitant to use even SeaFoam or Marvens Mystery Oil for the fact that they say it breaks stuff up but if youve got sludge buidup keeping things sealed up its gonna make you either have blowbuy or leaky gaskets. Just a question. I might half to run that diesel idea though.
Don't do the Kerosene or Diesel without oil. Neither are good lubricants compared to oil. I'm glad you went with a commercial flush, but I'm posting this to dispell the old myth about running Kerosene in your motor to clean it up. It'll clean out the gunk,, but you'll be doing more damage than you can imagine. Then after you change in fresh oil, it will smoke like a pig for 100 miles or so. Just my .02
I've had great results with Risolone. It actually made the engine run 100% better after doing it a few oil changes. I add it to my Ford each time now.
Whatever you use, keep a close eye on your oil, even change the filter in between oil changes. If it was really clogged up, that stuff will start letting go inside.
Maybe you could try brushing some diesel on some built up oil on the outside of the engine ( from leaks ), and see if it dessolves it before putting it inside.
I had a 351W that the oil pick up got clogged with chunks while on the interstate.
Running one quart of atf per oil change for a couple of oil changes does an excellent job of cleaning out an engine. I happen to feel that it dissolves build up without immediately blasting it free and clogging the pick-up screen. Just my .002. I have heard of the diesel trick before. I don't think I'd have the ***** to fill an engine I cared about with it, even at an idle, for any length of time.
I got to thinking about putting kerosene or diesel in my motor without oil and I really didn't feel comfortable in doing that really. Everthing I read last night said to add it to the oil, so thats what I'm going to do. Risolone even said to add it. I'm going to try it this way but from what all of you have said I'm leaving oil in mine. My dad said atf would do a good job to. I'm going to clean the valve train up myself first b/c thats where most of it is that I can see. I'm going to let it soak some in the head and then pour it in the motor. I hope some of my valve's do quiten down to.