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Will Oil Squirt / leak out?

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  #1  
Old 01-02-2007, 09:05 AM
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Will Oil Squirt / leak out?

I am installing my oil bypass filter kit from Oil Guard sponsors here...

It says in the "destructions" sheet (I have passionate fingers for anyone hasn't already figured it out, yep - they pretty much $^*# anything they touch)....to undo these two oil ports on the oil pump body on the engine just above the full flow filter, one being the oil inlet back to the engine and one being the oil outlet!

Their picture shows the full flow oil filter removed during this install process!

One assumes I guess that they have drained all the oil?....perhaps ready to do an oil change on the new filter or something?....

Anyways - I've only just had a new full flow filter and oil change in the last 500 miles so was contemplating doing the install with the full flow filter in place and the sump full of oil...

So - when I pull these port plugs out to install the two hose barbs in their place, will oil squirt or pour out of either/ both these two ports?....

Just wanted to be ready with lots of rags or summut to plug the flow while I get the hoses routed and cut to length and the ends pushed on and coupled up! (Or a bowl to collect it or whatever!)

I can just imagine I'll pull the plug and oil will go everywhere while I try and do the next 5 steps one handed with a little finger stuck in the hole to stem the oil flow!

Thats the usual sorta crapola that happens to me when I try these simple do it yourself home projects!

Anyone been down this path before me and come out oil free?????

Cheers & Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-02-2007, 10:00 AM
wfmcbride wfmcbride is offline
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Good Question Fly,

I'm pretty sure you'll have oil coming out, if you had a Fumoto drain valve you could drain and save the oil in a clean container and reuse it, or waiting until your next oil change to install the bypass would be a safe bet.
I know, I hate waiting when I have a new toy I want to play with.

Good Luck, Walt
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Old 01-02-2007, 10:28 AM
dagren99 dagren99 is offline
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Oil Leak

Yup, you'll get oil if you take these out. Safe bet is to do it @ the next oil change.

DG
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Old 01-02-2007, 01:18 PM
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I don't know!

Your probably right and I should drop my oil, into a clean pan and save / re use it!

It's just that...the oil pump body up under the V8 engine block is above sump level, and the oil filter screws up vertically from below...the oil pump...so I'm wondering where this oil will come from?...

I mean - whatever drains back to the oil filter - should stay in the oil filter - even if I unscrewed it and set it aside to rescrew on afterwards!

Likewise - wouldn't any oil in the upper engine etc have drained back into the sump in the couple days since the truck was last run?

I'm just wondering where this oil thats gonna leak out will be comming from or if it will be under any sort of back pressure to make it squirt, when I release the plugs!

The destructions make no mention of this at all!

It's kinda too late to wait until the next oil change.....as I already have the filter body attached to the chassis rail....and want to get on with the rest of the job - fitting the hose barbs and cutting / routing the hoses to the pump & filter body!

I figured on taking some oil samples anyway round this time - to compare what I get after running the bypass filtration...

I COULD just do an oil change anyway, but wanted to swap out to the new synthetic oil for the first full filtration test....seems an awfull waste to dump all that near new dino....but I do have the waste capacity to store it for later recycling...

So lastly - what BRAND / Type synthetioc should I be running - we just don't have the same selection of oils available to us downunder...even in Dino Oil so I have no0 idea what brand synthetic to run!

Do Pennzoil make a synthetic for diesels thats good in 7.3 PSD's? (I know my local auto parts store carries Pennzoil brand!).
Pennzoil Platinum?


Castrol?

CASTROL ENDURON S.
Castrol Enduron
Low SAPS


A superior 10W-40, ACEA E4, E5, E7 synthetic technology super high performance diesel engine oil for use in all European technology (and some Japanese), heavy duty diesel engines especially the latest engine designs complying with Euro 3 and 4 exhaust emission legislation.



Mobil 1

They seem to be about the limit of local availability!

Not sure I can locate any amsoil synthgetic!

Any suggestions as to which is best?

Cheers & thanks
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  #5  
Old 01-02-2007, 01:44 PM
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jtharvey jtharvey is offline
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IIRC, when I installed my oil guard, a some oil came out, but it didn't just come squirting and pouring out. Just have the fittings and hoses ready to go so when you pull the plugs out of the engine, you can get the fittings in there pretty quickly.

As far as oil, I use Schaeffer's Supreme 9000. I buy it in bulk, well enough for about 2 to 3 oil changes, and have it shipped to my house since it's not available locally. I've also used Mobil 1 / Mobil 1 Delvac and Shell Rotella T full synthetic. I would also look into Chevron Delo.

I don't know that I would feel comfortable with either Castrol or Penzoil in my engine. Just make sure that whatever oil you use is diesel certified.
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Old 01-02-2007, 04:17 PM
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I mean - whatever drains back to the oil filter - should stay in the oil filter - even if I unscrewed it and set it aside to rescrew on afterwards!
Yes it will. But as in a recent post, those who have done this several times know, if you do not punch a hole in the filter and drain it before unscrewing, there will be leakage from the top of the filter as soon as you break the filter's o-ring seal. It is a gravity leak from the same housing assembly so I would suspect your ports would be about the same. This happens every time I change oil and has nothing to do with what is in the pan because that is empty when I do the filter.
I would suggest dropping the filter as usual keeping your oil in the pan. When that drains, make your connections then install a new filter (filled with new oil) check stick and top off. Happy motoring and good luck.
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Old 01-02-2007, 10:27 PM
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Thanks guys

Thanks guys,

I'm gonna have at it today, play merry hell with a big stick and break things! I'll be sure n take pics so you can all learn from my mistakes!
Theres bound to be one or two! Before I start I have another question if I may!

The little brass auxilliary drain tap they give you in the kit for taking oil samples, seems to be stuck closed on mine!

I tried opening it with a small shifter (AFS = Any Fricken Size) spanner but it wouldn't budge and I didn't want to break the weld holding the tap handle on...so I didn't force it!

The securing nut for the tap spiggot under the handle was loose, even if I loosen it further until it winds up to the underside of the tap handle - the little tap spiggot still doesn't seem to want to turn!

I'm going to try flooding it with some CRC today from the top and back thru the removed end cap, to see if I can free it up, and have another go....
Is there some secret "trick" to getting the little tap to work (open) for the first time??.
Tappping it with a hammer maybe?
A little heat from a butane torch maybe?

I dont want to screw this up - and knowing my "passionate fingers", it's quite likely I will!

I'm open to any other suggested engineering solutions!
Many thanks again in advance!

Cheers!
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Old 01-02-2007, 10:53 PM
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Mine was pretty stuck the first time too, but I was able to break it free with some pliers. I'd tighten down the nut under the handle first, then maybe try some gentle heat on the outer body. But, first check to make sure there are no rubber parts in there that might burn. Also, maybe make sure it's not already in the open positon - try tightening it a little first.
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Old 01-03-2007, 06:50 AM
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Finnished!

Well - thanks to all the help from those of you here I actually got it all done today! Even went for a test drive - and no oil leaks so far!

This of course would be a minor miracle in the making for lil ol passionate fingers me!

Now-I didn'tmanage to get the damn stuck tap to open - but at least I didn;t break it either! It's installed into the top of the bypass filter - but just not useable is all!

I figure I can always drop the filter body and exchange the tap for one that works, when I can eventually get a hold of one!

BUT, everything else seems to be working fine so far!

I installed the bracket against the outside of the chassis rail as suggested!



The stuck tap remains on top - out of harms way until later!



It seems pretty safe up there outta the way!



I even managed to get the hoses routed neatly & away from the exhaust manifold!



More pics of the proceedure to follow!

Cheers!
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Old 01-03-2007, 07:06 AM
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Install continued!

As suggested, I dropped the full oil filter (and managed to get a Oil analysis sample while I was at it!) and this made it much easier to do the oil pressure lines install!



You can see it was a bit crowded up in there without removing the full flow filter!



By using cable ties and routing the oil hoses up over the body and chassis rail - I was able to keep them a good distance away from the exhaust manifold to protect against potential temperature damage to the hoses!



I do have to say - that pushing the hoses over their barb couplings was a monumental effort, I can fully imagine they should hold up to their rated 350 psi rating, because we (the eldest son & I) used boiling water to soften the rubber and pushed like a couple draught horses, to get them to butt up tight into their plastic collars! This parts no where near as easey as the destructions sheet would have you believe!

More to come!
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Old 01-03-2007, 07:23 AM
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Cont.

SInstall continued!



New Oil Guard Full flow filter full of new oil installed in place of the old motorcraft one!

Before anyone asks - the black star shaped plastic things on the bottom of the bypass filter cannister and the full flow oil cannister are Rare Earth neodymium magnets - put there to catch any fine metal particals in the oil!

I know this is a controversial subject - but I prefer to have them than not have them despite having read most all of the threads about this subject on this forum!

I also have another special one of them clamped around my fuel line!

I am aiming to have these magnets everywhere that I can, to trap metal particles and keep them OUT of circulation, and hopefully these suckers will pick up any sub 1 micron particles that the full flow & bypass filters don't get!

When I do my Transmission Oil bypass filter kit (From Long Island Performance Diesel) install next - you will see that I add another rare earth neodymium magnet to that cannister as well!

You can buy them cheap off ebay, or like idiot me order them full price ($Aus 60 ea) from a online supplier! :rollseyes:



This is the danged stuck sample tap, and a few of the various methods I tried to use to loosen it up - including CRC lubrication and butane torch applied heat and just sheer brute force!

I ended up loosening the fit between the tap handle and it's shaft somewhat, but the stubborn dammned shaft remained firmly jammed shut - where it now resides!

I'll write Oil Guard and see if they have a replacement / spare tap that actually works - and replace the offending one when I get the replacement!

Overall I was pretty happy with the kit and it's destructions sheet!

It was lacking the info about oil going everywhere!

You'll see that JUST ABOUT everything needed was included in the kit, even the 5/16th square piece of steel to use to get the retuirn oil port removed - very thoughtfull! (It's in one of the pics above, pokin out the return oil port before I removed it for the hose install!)

However I do have one suggestion for improvement!

There were no bolts to attach the Bypass Filter Bracket to the chassis rail!

I just happened to have a couple spare bolts I bought the other day for my boat trailer rebuild project laying handy nearbye - otherwise I would have been up a proverbial creek without a paddle!

Given the two missing bolts from the kit and the stuck tap, + the lack of info about dropping the filter and getting oil everywhere etc - I still give the whole kit a novice approval rating of 7/10....

They could improve but overall I was still relatively impressed!

The quality of the filter head and body - lines and fittings etc - 100%!
Thats what I DO like about made in the USA stuff - it's dammned good quality compared the crapola we get these days seemingly mostly from China!

Cheers!

Last edited by Flywest; 01-03-2007 at 07:47 AM. Reason: My spelling sux!
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Old 01-03-2007, 07:26 AM
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Wow flywest the install looks good! It looks like a really clean job, so easy even i could do it. Im coming up on my change in a few thousand miles so it might not hurt to do this! If you dont have a few thousand miles on the oil yet, i would just put that oil in and run it until you get some miles on it.
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Old 01-03-2007, 10:06 AM
wfmcbride wfmcbride is offline
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Nice Pics

Really nice pictures Fly, what's the make and model of your camera?

Walt
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Old 01-03-2007, 07:43 PM
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Camera

Hi Walt,

Camera is a little Olympus U720 SW - which is waterproof to 3 meters (10ft) or so!

I'm finding it very handy for keeping on the boat and taking pics when we get a good fish - or indeed working around the Ftruck on jobs like this when theres fluids involved!

I would like top have made those pics a tad smaller - but haven't found the picture resizing tool on this confounded new computer yet!

Cheers!
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Old 01-03-2007, 08:03 PM
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Great work flywest. I'm sure FTE loves all those pics sucking down the resources but that is what we pay for. Glad it went well and I'm sure you have checked at least 3x the oil level after running and filling all.

I would not be happy with that petcock. What a POS. Myself, I would have broken it trying to open it before installing rather than put the nonfunctioning piece on only the be removed later. Of course I could have a replacement far quicker than you so it is understandable. (Like the local hardware store if need be) Cheerios

BTW, I have no problems with the magnets. May want to talk to JTHarvey about that tranny bypass system before ordering it though. He had one but removed it when he had his BTS tranny installed. Might want to ask him about that.
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