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I had a vibration at 45-55mph so I checked the driveshaft and the U-joints were falling apart. Removed the driveshaft and took it to the driveline shop for balance and new U-joints.
My question is about the orientation of the driveshaft. When I removed the driveshaft the cardan was attached at the transfer case (picture #1) and the slip yoke was attached down at the rear diff. (picture #2). I have read that the shaft can be reversed so that the slip yoke end of the shaft is attached at the transfer case supposedly to keep the yoke cleaner. I'm not really worried about clean but want to have the least amount of vibration and the longest life for the U-joints. Which way should the driveshaft be installed?
Be easy to swap it around when you have that double cardan U-joint apart for service, just assemble on the other end of driveshaft and place it and the slip joint both up nearer transfer case ....
.... if the yokes on the shaft are the same.
Don't know why "not"?
Edit: .... Not doable for reason given in post 13/14 below..
Be easy to swap it around when you have that double cardan U-joint apart for service, just assemble on the other end of driveshaft and place it and the slip joint both up nearer transfer case ....
.... if the yokes on the shaft are the same.
Don't know why "not"?
Negative, they dont work that way. The CV can't be on the axle end for several reasons. First, it requires a special yoke which is on the T-case because it isn't secured with u-bolts. Second, the reason for a CV is so the 2 u-joints in the assembly handle most of the driveline angle while the pinion is pointed almost straight at the T-case. If you turn it around the CV would have almost no angle while the single joint at the other end would be angled beyond it's limit. Third, the CV needs to be at the fixed mounting point not the axle which moves up and down and wraps. Having it at the axle would cause tremendous vibration and premature failure.
BTW, your DS looks a little long. There doesn't appear to be enough travel on the slip yoke before bottoms out where the stub welds to the tube. You might want to measure the distance yoke to yoke and consult with the shop if they still have it.
I picked up my driveshaft from the shop today and they said that the CV joint goes up at the transfer case for exactly the reason Fordworth stated, because of the greater angle at that point.
Also, for anyone's future reference, I asked about how tight the mounting hardware should be for the driveshaft. They said to make sure that the U-bolts holding the shaft to the pinion yoke are not too tight. Overtightening clamps the bearing and causes drag which will cause vibration and heat. The proper torque is only 17 ft. lbs. but getting a torque wrench in there is impossible so they said to tighten until the lock washer flattens out then 1/8 turn more.
I went for a test drive and what a difference! No more vibration at all. Truck rolls down the road like a new vehicle.
Thanks. It works pretty good but I'm unhappy with the pad wear. I have about 2000 miles on it and I'm halfway through the front pad. Time to go to a line lock. There is a build on it in my thread below. It's some where near the beginning of my thread. Hijack over.
Thanks. It works pretty good but I'm unhappy with the pad wear. I have about 2000 miles on it and I'm halfway through the front pad. Time to go to a line lock. There is a build on it in my thread below. It's some where near the beginning of my thread. Hijack over.[/quote]Always thought the drive line parking brakes on the early 70's F600 might be an option ..
Negative, they dont work that way. The CV can't be on the axle end for several reasons. First, it requires a special yoke which is on the T-case because it isn't secured with u-bolts.
I did not say to put the CV double cardan U-joint at the rear axle end.
I was talking about the yoke welded to the driveshaft tube and the yoke welded to the female portion of the slip joint .... they both use external clips .... wondering if they were sized the same at the bearing cap holes and spacing (likely, but I'ld measure first) so that when reassembling the driveshaft, could you assemble the female part of slip yoke to the CV double cardan U-joint and place the driveshaft tube (longer) towards the rear axle.
Edit: .... Not doable for reason given in post 13/14 below.
I <b>did not say </b>to put the CV double cardan U-joint at the rear axle end. <br />
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<b>I was talking about </b>the yoke welded to the driveshaft tube and the yoke welded to the female portion of the slip joint .... they both use external clips .... wondering if they were sized the same at the bearing cap holes and spacing (<i><font color="darkred">likely, but I'ld measure first</font></i>) so that when reassembling the driveshaft, could you assemble the female part of slip yoke to the CV double cardan U-joint and place the driveshaft tube (<i><font color="DarkRed">longer</font></i>) towards the rear axle.
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I understand what you mean now while before I thought you were confirming the OP's thought of turning the entire DS around. All three u-joints are likely the same size (1330) however, it still would not work. Here's what the weld yoke on the tube looks like for a CV joint. It's not a basic full circle yoke like on a slip or a single u-joint application. It's actually part of the whole CV assembly. <br />
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<a href="http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/prodimages/MOOG/HPE638_lg.png" target="_blank">http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/prodimages/MOOG/HPE638_lg.png</a>
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I understand what you mean now while before I thought you were confirming the OP's thought of turning the entire DS around. All three u-joints are likely the same size (1330) however, it still would not work. Here's what the weld yoke on the tube looks like for a CV joint. It's not a basic full circle yoke like on a slip or a single u-joint application. It's actually part of the whole CV assembly. <br />
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<br />
<a href="http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/prodimages/MOOG/HPE638_lg.png" target="_blank">http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/prodimages/MOOG/HPE638_lg.png</a>
Oooops, I forgot that centering "tab" .....you are right ..... unless someone welded up a whole new shaft it's not doable.
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