Hey guys I have a 1986 Ford f250 6.9 diesel. I put a new tank new fuel lines new sending unit and a new fuel pump with to new batteries. I purged all the fuel lines all the way to the injector pump but when I cracked the lines on the injectors to bleed the injectors I couldn't get any fuel through those lines. I know the truck will start though because when I put some diesel in the intake it tries to start i also checked to make sure i had electricity to the pump with a test light and I have power. I know i don't have working glow plugs but I heard of those trucks starting with out glow plugs. Could this mean I have a bad injector pump or could there be something else wrong?

 

Make sure the accelerator is floored when bleeding the lines. If it's at idle, you will get next to nothing out.

 

That's the thing it only tries to start when I put fuel in the intake if I don't do that it won't try to start at all. While cranking to start the truck nothing is coming out of the injector lines so at this point i can't even get it running that's why I thought maybe the pump was bad. Should I have it floored while cranking?

 

Yes.
With those lines drained, you have a ton of air in there.
It will take a couple of *minutes* of cranking, floored, with the injector ends of the lines cracked before you will get any fuel, best case.
The proper procedure is that you loosen the injector-end of the lines, then crank with it floored. Once you see fuel/wetness at the end-cap(where you loosened it), you can tighten that line down. Once at least 6 are that way, tighten them all down, keep the throttle floored and try to start it.

I would do the cranking from the front of the truck -- leave the key in the on position, walk around front, pull the small wire/boot off the starter relay(passenger side fender wall) and use a screwdriver to short it to the rearward larger terminal to crank.
This allows you to watch things while cranking, and hold the throttle to the 'floored' position. (Note: I usually disconnect the throttle linkage(just pops off the lever), and remove the return spring. Then the throttle will stay where ever you put it, not return to idle if you take your hand off it -- just be ready to back it off if the engine does start.).


Remember to crank for only 30s at a time, and let the starter cool off between attempts.

You're going to need a good battery charger, BTW, or a couple of spare batteries to put in during this process.

Also, I tend to use a whif of ether while doing this -- after you've had the key on for more than a minute, those GPs will have run their cycle and cooled down; any attempts to actually start the engine from then on will require cycling the GPs, or ether.

 

Thank you for the help. Then there's probably nothing wrong with the pump after all then?

 

Also do you know any Web sites i can get a transmission vacuum regulator?

 

Which pump? IP or fuel pump(lift pump)? Either way if you didn't mess with the IP and could bleed the fuel lines, then they are probably both fine.
Easy way to see if the fuel pump is working right is to remove the core of the schraeder valve and put a hose on it into a bucket, then crank the engine.
They are rated at 30gph so a 15-second crank should get you half a quart once you start getting fuel out of the hose.

-Joshua

 

Thanks for all the help i bled them injector lines the way you said to do it now it runs great