Need Help P2285 surging and bucking!
#1
Need Help P2285 surging and bucking!
Pulling the new trailer home last night the wife and I heard a pop, pop as I let off of the fuel pedal last night at 70 MPH. Truck drove fine and no issues or check engine light.
Driving home from work tonight the truck started bucking and sever idle fluctuations. CEL popped on and code scanner gave me a P2285.
What do I need to look at on the scanner for data?
What is the likely hood it is just an ICP sensor?
What if it isn't an ICP sensor? How do I trouble shoot this issue?
Driving home from work tonight the truck started bucking and sever idle fluctuations. CEL popped on and code scanner gave me a P2285.
What do I need to look at on the scanner for data?
What is the likely hood it is just an ICP sensor?
What if it isn't an ICP sensor? How do I trouble shoot this issue?
#2
Ok some DATA for anyone that wants to help.
KOEO :
MAP 14.0
ICV .14
IPR 14.1
ICP 0
SYC 0
FLP 12.0
FMP 47.0
KOER
MAP 14.0
ICV .79-.86
IPR 22.5
ICP 644
SYC 1
FLP 14.0
FMP 48.0
Returned the truck to the stock tune and still have the p2285 code.
Asked Cheezit and called and talked with Julie......Anthony's brains..
I am freaking at the moment....Just bought a travel trailer and have a trip planned this upcoming weekend.
KOEO :
MAP 14.0
ICV .14
IPR 14.1
ICP 0
SYC 0
FLP 12.0
FMP 47.0
KOER
MAP 14.0
ICV .79-.86
IPR 22.5
ICP 644
SYC 1
FLP 14.0
FMP 48.0
Returned the truck to the stock tune and still have the p2285 code.
Asked Cheezit and called and talked with Julie......Anthony's brains..
I am freaking at the moment....Just bought a travel trailer and have a trip planned this upcoming weekend.
#4
#6
To update this and close it out.
The cause of the code was a sensor that disintegrated where the plug housing goes into the the sensor body. Another variable into this issue was the wiring harness between the IPR plug and the ICP plug. Someone had replaced the pigtail before me and did not solder the joints on the butt connectors.
Oil residue was all the way up to where the IPR plug T's out of the wiring harness.
I will do a step by step process in a little while for those that want to get it from the top along with part numbers for the 03 and early 04 6.0L
I want to thank Julie, Anthony and Cheezit for the pointers and support!
The cause of the code was a sensor that disintegrated where the plug housing goes into the the sensor body. Another variable into this issue was the wiring harness between the IPR plug and the ICP plug. Someone had replaced the pigtail before me and did not solder the joints on the butt connectors.
Oil residue was all the way up to where the IPR plug T's out of the wiring harness.
I will do a step by step process in a little while for those that want to get it from the top along with part numbers for the 03 and early 04 6.0L
I want to thank Julie, Anthony and Cheezit for the pointers and support!
#7
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#8
After talking with Julie last night and PMing with Cheezit a few times and crawling under the truck to have a look. I decided I wanted to try and go at this issue from the top only since I wanted to replace the ICP pigtail. I spent a few hours surfing the internet for examples of how folks went at it from the top.
I did the procedure in the following order.
1) disconnected the batteries.
2) removed the air cleaner all the way to the hard pipe on the turbo.
3) drained the coolant system until it was below the Y in the hose out bottom of the degas bottle.
4) removed the degas bottle.
5) removed the FICM and the bracket it bolts to. (I didn't remove the bracket at first, then got tired of working around it)
6) removed the rear intake bolt/stud. (it allows you to get a better entry angle)
7) unplugged the IPR harness from the IPR(the retaining clip on the IPR is a neat one!)
8) unplugged the ICP harness. use a 90 degree pick to unlatch the plug from the sensor.(in my case the plug and socket came out in one piece)
9) cut an 1 1/16" deep socket to 2 1/2 long. (I couldn't find one in a 3/8" drive, if you can it will allow you more room with a 3/8" swivel )
10)removed the ICP sensor using the modified socket, a swivel, ratchet and 6" extension of the appropriate drive size.
11)using a piece of 5/8 heater hose slipped over the socket of the ICP gently screw it into the HPOP hosing and remove the hose.
12) using the modified socket set up tighten the ICP
13) replace the ICP pigtail. (I am a cheap ******* and have a ton of electrical connectors and heat shrink in my in my tool box. so I went with the International pigtail P/N 2501105C1 for $16 verses $68 at my favorite Ford dealer.) I used solid butt connectors and soldered both ends before using chemical and high heat shrink tubing. Make sure to reuse the heat sleeves that are in place from the factory. As a precaution only cut ad splice one wire at a time taking care to match the wire's same location on the new pig tail!
14) have someone with small hands install the new pigtail into the ICP sensor! ( I lost a all the knuckle skin on my left pinky to a heat shield before I got the wife to plug it in.)
15) install everything you took out in the reverse order you that you removed it.
16) clear the DTC's before restarting the truck.
I hope this helps someone in the future! Like I said I combined a few things from a few sources.
I did the procedure in the following order.
1) disconnected the batteries.
2) removed the air cleaner all the way to the hard pipe on the turbo.
3) drained the coolant system until it was below the Y in the hose out bottom of the degas bottle.
4) removed the degas bottle.
5) removed the FICM and the bracket it bolts to. (I didn't remove the bracket at first, then got tired of working around it)
6) removed the rear intake bolt/stud. (it allows you to get a better entry angle)
7) unplugged the IPR harness from the IPR(the retaining clip on the IPR is a neat one!)
8) unplugged the ICP harness. use a 90 degree pick to unlatch the plug from the sensor.(in my case the plug and socket came out in one piece)
9) cut an 1 1/16" deep socket to 2 1/2 long. (I couldn't find one in a 3/8" drive, if you can it will allow you more room with a 3/8" swivel )
10)removed the ICP sensor using the modified socket, a swivel, ratchet and 6" extension of the appropriate drive size.
11)using a piece of 5/8 heater hose slipped over the socket of the ICP gently screw it into the HPOP hosing and remove the hose.
12) using the modified socket set up tighten the ICP
13) replace the ICP pigtail. (I am a cheap ******* and have a ton of electrical connectors and heat shrink in my in my tool box. so I went with the International pigtail P/N 2501105C1 for $16 verses $68 at my favorite Ford dealer.) I used solid butt connectors and soldered both ends before using chemical and high heat shrink tubing. Make sure to reuse the heat sleeves that are in place from the factory. As a precaution only cut ad splice one wire at a time taking care to match the wire's same location on the new pig tail!
14) have someone with small hands install the new pigtail into the ICP sensor! ( I lost a all the knuckle skin on my left pinky to a heat shield before I got the wife to plug it in.)
15) install everything you took out in the reverse order you that you removed it.
16) clear the DTC's before restarting the truck.
I hope this helps someone in the future! Like I said I combined a few things from a few sources.
#12
Truck is up and running so far with no issues! The random surging I was experiencing since I bought the EX are now gone. The CEL is off and the only code that has been set was do to me putting the tune back on the truck. It now idles nice and smooth! As smooth as a Diesel can!
I am going to assume the popping noise we heard was the ICP socket breaking loose.
An underlying issue was a poorly spliced ICP pigtail that someone put on before I got it. There was bare wire on one side the splices.
I am going to assume the popping noise we heard was the ICP socket breaking loose.
An underlying issue was a poorly spliced ICP pigtail that someone put on before I got it. There was bare wire on one side the splices.
#13
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