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Seal replacement

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Old May 9, 2014 | 08:42 PM
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Jklnhyd's Avatar
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From: Pasadena, Ca
Seal replacement

1979 F250 4x4 400/6.6 c6

I am replacing some seals in my truck and could use for instruction before i find out the hardway.

Rear Main Seal- can i replace this by only dropping the pan? It looks as though nothing is in the way.

Oil Pan Gasket- do i have to cherry pick the engine? And if my pump seems to be fine, should i replace it anyway?

Transmission pan seal- any issues or comments?

Transfer Case- my input and output seal need replacing. I have read that there is no torque rating, that most tighten with an impact. I dont have an impact but DO have a torque wrench. Anyone recommend a torque setting?

Thank you
 
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Old May 10, 2014 | 10:23 AM
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t/c

Hey Bud ,I did my T/C on my hb this past early winter np 205 nut 130-150 ft lbs,thats what i was advised.Hope that helps
 
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Old May 10, 2014 | 11:00 AM
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Cool, that's a good start.
 
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Old May 10, 2014 | 01:36 PM
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Drop the engine oil pan, remove rear main bearing cap, remove old rear main seal, slide in new seal, dab of sealant on each side where two halves of rear mail seal meet and re-install main bearing cap.

I know oil pan will drop right out on my 1977 highboy but not sure about 1979. As long as there are no cross members in the way you should be good to go.

As for oil pump, if you are not experiencing any oil pressure issues, I would not replace it. If you do have oil pressure issues, it is more likely worn bearings ie too much clearance. How many miles on engine?
 
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Old May 10, 2014 | 01:45 PM
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Not sure on mileage.

It runs, idles, drives great. There are no drips, but there is seapage, so i want to fix things before it becomes a problem.
 
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Old May 10, 2014 | 02:00 PM
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Copy. Oil pan and rear-main seal is not too bad a job on the F250 4x4.

Have a look at the main bearing when you have the rear main cap off. If you see lots of copper then your bearings are worn (which can also contribute to leaky rear main seal). If the crank journals are smooth you can also replace the main and rod bearings fairly easily with the pan off. And of course, if you decide to replace the bearings, I would also opt for a new oil pump as well.

If rear main bearing looks good, just throw in new seal and be done with it.
 
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Old May 10, 2014 | 08:58 PM
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Good info right there, ty bro.

I will hold off on that a week or so, incase i do open it up and need to replace more than just the seal.
 
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Old May 17, 2014 | 04:19 AM
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I had to lift the engine on my 78 a few inches to get the pan out. I put a one piece gasket in it by grinding the raised ridges of the bolt hole on the pan. Lots of posts on this sight if you're looking to do that..
 
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Old May 17, 2014 | 10:58 PM
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Alright, did the rear main seal, today. Thanks for all the help!

Now i am on to the transmission filter and fluid change.
My crossmember is in the way, can i place a jack infront and behind the crossmember to support the tranny and TC, then remove the crossmember?
 
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Old May 17, 2014 | 11:32 PM
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What size motor? I supported my transmission with my left shoulder laying on the ground to get my transmission cross member out, then just blocked it up after it was out of the way.
 
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Old May 17, 2014 | 11:58 PM
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Lol, holy crap.
Its a 400/c6 with an NP205. I think i would rather not shoulder anything😳
 
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Old May 18, 2014 | 01:21 AM
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Yeah probably not with the transfer case. lol. I wasn't putting together what TC meant for some reason.

Should be able to just jack it up then unbolt your transmission mount and then the cross member from the frame and leave it on stands until you are ready to go back together.
 
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