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Just got done replacing the oilpan gasket on my '83 F250, wich is a hell of a job ! Anyway, everything put back together now I got oil leaking between the engine and the C6 tranny, I guess it's the rear main seal. Is it possible to leave the engine in and just remove the tranny from under the truck ? I hate to go thru all the hassle again to lift the engine and disconnect the tranny. I lifted it just high enough so I could remove the oil pan but never thought about checking the rear seal.
I have done it but it's not fun. Raise the engine as far as you can, drop the pan, then unbolt and drop your oil pump sump/pick up, then slide the pan out from under her. Use your book to make sure but you'll have to drop the crank, replace the main and assemble in reverse order.
I had to replace the rear seal on my 1970 429, it was a rope type seal and I replaced it with a rubber lip type seal I put it in with the lip facing the trans as a buddy told me it would leak if I put it in the "correct" way round, I was going to kill him if it did not work as replacing that seal was a nightmare but 15 years later it is still A1, no leaks!
Apparently the milled surface where the rope seal touches the crank will destroy the lip on a rubber seal, however doing what I did might not be so good if you had a lot of sump pressure (blower or tired engine) as oil could get forced past the lip as it is not designed to cope with pressure from behind the lip.
I think you can use a two peice seal, raise the block, drop the pan, crank etc, without pulling the Tranny, can't you gentlemen? This Haynes of mine says you can and I've changed oil pumps and pan gaskets in the vehicle but not a rear main.
I think you can use a two peice seal, raise the block, drop the pan, crank etc, without pulling the Tranny, can't you gentlemen? This Haynes of mine says you can and I've changed oil pumps and pan gaskets in the vehicle but not a rear main.
Unlikely if it is a rope type seal but the rubber two piece seal may be possible,
if you want to know more let me know when you know what type of seal you have in your motor.
I appeciate that, believe me. I've only changed them tore down, not installed. My book says that 460's up to something like 84, I don't remember exactly, use two piece seals. I've gone so far as to buy new ones to change my own and ended up backing out of it. Sure a lot of labor, either way, for a couple dollars a week. If I had to run her hard and long it would be worth it though. Anyway, mine has pictures showing you how to and how much to lower the main caps/crank so it can be changed. If it's like everything else I do, it certainly looks easier than it would ever be. I have opted to waite until she leaks to the point I can't stand it, then swap in a fresh 460 I have on the stand ready to go.
I appeciate that, believe me. I've only changed them tore down, not installed. My book says that 460's up to something like 84, I don't remember exactly, use two piece seals. I've gone so far as to buy new ones to change my own and ended up backing out of it. Sure a lot of labor, either way, for a couple dollars a week. If I had to run her hard and long it would be worth it though. Anyway, mine has pictures showing you how to and how much to lower the main caps/crank so it can be changed. If it's like everything else I do, it certainly looks easier than it would ever be. I have opted to waite until she leaks to the point I can't stand it, then swap in a fresh 460 I have on the stand ready to go.
Chiefrider007, if it is a rope seal you just about 100% have to drop the crank which means parting the trans, with a rubber seal you MAY get away without that but in any event remember to 'stagger' the ends of the new seal, i.e. make sure the ends of the seal halves don't line up with the joint where your rear main meets the block, that way there is less liklihood of leaks.
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