Odd water pump failure
9 ECHO 1
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12,467
Likes: 58
From: Missouri
Motorcraft are generally the way to go.
As far as coolant selection, do some reading on that. You have three choices, and to simplify it, lets use colors. Keep in mind, colors dont always designate a correct coolant, so double check.
1. Ford Green, what you had. Oldest coolant.
2, Ford Gold, Fords latest coolant for our application. There are some problems with it, not so much in the 7.3, but make your own decisions.
3. Aftermarket red HD ELC. This is a coolant produced by a number of companies, generally used in medium duty and heavy duty trucks. Including the 7.3 in the medium duty trucks. This coolant is maintenance free.
I recommend an HD ELC since you are flushing anyway. It is more expensive, but maintenance free. Make sure any HD ELC you get is CAT EC-1 certified.
As far as coolant selection, do some reading on that. You have three choices, and to simplify it, lets use colors. Keep in mind, colors dont always designate a correct coolant, so double check.
1. Ford Green, what you had. Oldest coolant.
2, Ford Gold, Fords latest coolant for our application. There are some problems with it, not so much in the 7.3, but make your own decisions.
3. Aftermarket red HD ELC. This is a coolant produced by a number of companies, generally used in medium duty and heavy duty trucks. Including the 7.3 in the medium duty trucks. This coolant is maintenance free.
I recommend an HD ELC since you are flushing anyway. It is more expensive, but maintenance free. Make sure any HD ELC you get is CAT EC-1 certified.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: NJ pine barrens
That pump mates to an aluminum casting that forms the front timing cover.
What does that casting look like inside?
In addition to the regular diesel coolant test strips, get some litmus paper and get a reading of what the coolant's PH is.
If it's getting on the acidic side, it's time to take some serious corrective action.
Pop
What does that casting look like inside?
In addition to the regular diesel coolant test strips, get some litmus paper and get a reading of what the coolant's PH is.
If it's getting on the acidic side, it's time to take some serious corrective action.
Pop
What would the corrective action be, searched corrosion and erosion but few hits
@280k it might be something to do anyway...
Thats what I'll be doing, Thanks
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,802
Likes: 1,333
From: Elk Grove, CA
I would test your old coolant to have a better idea of the situation. Save some in a clean bottle until you can get some strips. A good local parts store should have them.
What you do not want is cavitation. If the old coolant was bad for along time you may have more problems elsewhere. If your coolant is pretty good you have less to worry about. A pic of the front cover to check the condition while the pump is off would be nice too.
Here's a thread with some good cavitation/SCA info. If your front cover looks like that...
What you do not want is cavitation. If the old coolant was bad for along time you may have more problems elsewhere. If your coolant is pretty good you have less to worry about. A pic of the front cover to check the condition while the pump is off would be nice too.
Here's a thread with some good cavitation/SCA info. If your front cover looks like that...
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 10,600
Likes: 3
From: Carhenge
Coolant didn't cause that big divot in the outside of the pump.
The impeller looks practically new. There may have been a little electrolysis going on there but a casting flaw is the main culprit.
The impeller looks practically new. There may have been a little electrolysis going on there but a casting flaw is the main culprit.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: NJ pine barrens
Couple questions, Is the bottom of thermostat supposed to contact the pump (red circle)?
The old pump/thermo didnt either but it almost looks like it's designed too and I recall reading something about long and short thermostats...
The new pump has a L shaped pipe (red x) on bottom while the old just had a short nub for hose. Preference to cut/shorten hose for pipe or put old nub on new pump?
And here is the timing cover, one bad spot... Poked at it with a small nail to see if it pushed thru or was soft, seems OK
Just above bottom center bolt hole...
The old pump/thermo didnt either but it almost looks like it's designed too and I recall reading something about long and short thermostats...
The new pump has a L shaped pipe (red x) on bottom while the old just had a short nub for hose. Preference to cut/shorten hose for pipe or put old nub on new pump?
And here is the timing cover, one bad spot... Poked at it with a small nail to see if it pushed thru or was soft, seems OK
Just above bottom center bolt hole...
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
Would anyone want to lay odds on the chance that BOTH the pump and front cover would have the same type of "casting flaws" without something else being "in play"?
There's more going on here than meets the eye.
Pop
There's more going on here than meets the eye.
Pop
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: NJ pine barrens
But the pump hole was more outside in, then inside out.
Also odds are the block is much older/more miles than pump.
I dont know, just typing outloud
Anyway, it's together and will be flushed and filled with ELC unless there are other suggestions
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 17,988
Likes: 207
From: La La Land
I suspect the ELC will go a lot farther to prevent any added pitting than anything we could recommend.
Good luck, because if that front cover pit gets any deeper and punches through, things get real messy in a hurry.
Pop
Good luck, because if that front cover pit gets any deeper and punches through, things get real messy in a hurry.
Pop
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
I am pretty certain that what we are looking at here is cavitation-induced pitting, which is often (in diesels, at least) a result of low pH in the coolant. The appearance of the pittings are consistent with those induced by cavitation.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 979
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver
The impeller on most of the ford pumps is not stainless. The anti-corrosion chemicals keep the impeller looking good. If the old pump is left out in the air with a little rain or some water sprayed on it, the impeller will rust. But for your peace of mind, get some litmus paper as mentioned above. You will at least have an idea of previous maintenance. The stain on the front cover may be from an original water pump starting to corrode from lack of coolant maintenance. That may indicate that at some previous time the coolant was not maintained properly which can cause internal corrosion around the cylinders and serious weakening of the cylinder walls if it goes on for too long. Larry
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: NJ pine barrens
Looking over things for a trip to FL and coolant seemed low.
Let it warm up and noticed a drip from WP weep hole.
Crunched for time replaced that cheap WP with another cheap water pump.
Here's hoping for at least another 7years 70k mi :-)
Timing cover looked same (wish I took a pic) and inside of old WP showed no signs of erosion
Let it warm up and noticed a drip from WP weep hole.
Crunched for time replaced that cheap WP with another cheap water pump.
Here's hoping for at least another 7years 70k mi :-)
Timing cover looked same (wish I took a pic) and inside of old WP showed no signs of erosion
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,348
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Looking over things for a trip to FL and coolant seemed low.
Let it warm up and noticed a drip from WP weep hole.
Crunched for time replaced that cheap WP with another cheap water pump.
Here's hoping for at least another 7years 70k mi :-)
Timing cover looked same (wish I took a pic) and inside of old WP showed no signs of erosion
Let it warm up and noticed a drip from WP weep hole.
Crunched for time replaced that cheap WP with another cheap water pump.
Here's hoping for at least another 7years 70k mi :-)
Timing cover looked same (wish I took a pic) and inside of old WP showed no signs of erosion
Keep us updated in 7 years or 70K miles! Have fun on your FL trip, this is a good time of year to get down there before the weather gets too muggy and humid.
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