Bottom half standpipe stayed in

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Apr 6, 2014 | 03:50 PM

#31

mustang_309

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From: South Weber, Utah

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shelbynut

I finally got the passenger side changed. Stand pipe came out pretty easy. The top o ring was definitely leaking. Oil all over and in the square hole to remove it. The fun part was putting in the new one. The only 30 torx I had was too long to fit by the evap box. I pulled the heat shield out of the way and removed enough material with a burr file in a angle air grinder. I didn't even have to go all the way through the plastic. And yes, I covered everything up first. Now to put it all back together. The dang thing better run after all this-oil cooler, HPOP, IPR, stand pipes and dummy plugs! There isn't really any place else for a HPO leak is there? At least I'm not paying for it!

Yep, all the oil rail ball cup orings, top injector orings and the branch tube can all be sources of HPO leaks. Glad to hear you got it done, just be easy on the starter when attempting to start it the first time, don't crank for more than 30 seconds at a time and give the starter a break between attempts. Did you add a quart of oil to the HPO reservoir? If not you can add one through the standpipe opening in the filter housing, just remove the standpipe and add the oil through the opening ( this is assuming you are doing an oil change too )

Apr 6, 2014 | 11:44 PM

#32

Shelbynut

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I'll keep this as short as possible. I'll review history first. All started from failed Dorman oil cooler gasket. They are standing behind it. Replaced oil cooler, HPOP, IPR and OEM gaskets. When done, ran 3 times for 2 - 5 minutes. Died, low HPO pressure - 350 cranking. Did a HPO air pressure check. Started with real slow pressure loss. Then could hear "gurgling" of oil shoved out. After a bit, pressure dropped fast. Sounded low and on passenger side. Sounde down low - not by oil rail. BTW - my test was different. Was gonna be a week before I could get ICP adapter. Made a jig with 3/4" hose that hooked to IPR part of high pressure pipe. Was able to give 120psi air to it. Now replaced Stand pipes and dummy plugs. Should I pull HPOP cover and pressure test before I put valve cover and turbo back on or put it together and go for it? If there is a problem, what next?

Dave

Apr 7, 2014 | 06:21 AM

#33

mustang_309

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From: South Weber, Utah

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shelbynut

Do you have the ICP air test fitting on the way? If not you should be able to pick up the correct fitting at a local hydraulic shop so you can test the entire system the proper way before you reassemble it. HPOP's for that year have been known to be bad out of the box. Is the new HPOP an OEM reman? And have you pulled the IPR and inspected the screen since you got it to run after the work? There could have still been gasket material in the system that got sent to the IPR valve.

Apr 8, 2014 | 01:24 PM

#34

Shelbynut

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Looks like I did get a bad HPOP. Had to take most of yesterday off due to uncooperative back. Got back at it this morning. Air test seemed fine. Put it back together and no start - no ICP. Cranked quite a few time giving long breaks in between. Pulled the oil filter stand pipe to add more to reservoir. Thing was full! It wasn't pulling any oil out at all. So much fun! I didn't hear air in filter housing when testing either. By the time I'm done I should be a certified mechanic - or at least certified!

Apr 8, 2014 | 02:39 PM

#35

Toreador_Diesel

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From: Houston, Texas

This is how I've done it when I've had to do it, when and if the lower stand pipe got stuck:

-Pull the oil rail
-Pull the bottom half out with a pair of needle nose pliers

Apr 9, 2014 | 03:49 PM

#36

Shelbynut

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Well, got the replacement HPOP this morning. Got it back together, and it started on the second cycle of 20 second cranks. Let it run for 5 minutes. Revved it up a couple times and all seemed wonderful. At idle, 800 ICP and 24% IPR. Went back out 30 minutes later, and it took two cycles to start again. Once started, it ran great. Same numbers. Come back 15 minutes later and same thing! Is it still just bleeding out air and I need to let it run longer or do I have a HPO leak still? This all started with changing the HPOP after the oil cooler gasket issue. Its new oil cooler, HPOP, IPR, standpipes and dummy plugs. Before the gasket died and plugged the reservoir and IPR there were no issues. What now?

Thanks,
Dave